Tried it and as I thought the bottom was still flat and it was looking more like it was made of flat steel than tubing.
MIght try a raft later and see what happens.
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3d printer for rc parts
- Thread starter Desmo
- Start date
Tried it and as I thought the bottom was still flat and it was looking more like it was made of flat steel than tubing.
MIght try a raft later and see what happens.
Another thing to try with the brim is instead of brim being say 1.5mm,2mm or so from part. Set that to zero, it acts kind of like a raft, but is easier to remove and doesn't seem to affect the outcome as much
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
Your brim should connect to the print already. If it does not connect then it is a skirt. You really shouldn't have to make that adjustment, the few slicers I have used differentiate between the two settings.
JSterrett
Rock Crawler
PLA for now. I imagine I will ultimately have to go with something stronger but going to give this a go for now. Bumped the heat up just a bit for better adhesion and printed w/ 2mm walls/ceiling/floor and 30% infill.... We'll see how strong it is...
Hope to be able to work on it a bit tonight, been busy buying/selling/working on my 1:1's for the last week or so, lol
JSterrett
Rock Crawler
Still very much a work in progress... had to improvise some upper-rear links for now...
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
CREEPERBOB
Yashua
Raspberry Pi,
Have Octopi loaded and Pi camera working.
Now to get it to talk to my printer ;-).
Have Octopi loaded and Pi camera working.
Now to get it to talk to my printer ;-).
JSterrett
Rock Crawler
Nice. That's one of my next projects. Have the Pi kit sitting here, just haven't found time to do it yet...
CREEPERBOB
Yashua
Yeah, its kind of involved if coding and writing aren't your thing,,,,,,,
And it's definitely not mine :ror:
CREEPERBOB
Yashua
My printer came with an USB cable that I connected to the Raspberry & the printer. Then opened a web browser, type octopi.local url line. You will then need to login to Octopi afterwards the Connect button should become hot and you can click it to connect to the printer. It took me a couple of times to get it to connect but once it connected once not it only take a couple of seconds.
I use this interface to upload my gcode to Optopi and then send it to the printer. I can then use my browser or my phone to check on the progress. I don't have mine setup to montior it on other than the local network.
So I was really impressed with my Vader skid plate made out of Delrin. So I looked into it as I thought it was a thermoplastic, and it was! Here is the link: https://gizmodorks.com/acetal-3d-printer-filament/
Im gonna get some and give it a try, but if we can get it close to the same quality as injection molded Delrin this stuff could be the holy grail of load bearing parts! Stats show it as even better than HIPS!
Im gonna get some and give it a try, but if we can get it close to the same quality as injection molded Delrin this stuff could be the holy grail of load bearing parts! Stats show it as even better than HIPS!
Been there, done that... Still have 3/4 of the 200g roll
Good luck getting it to stick and not peal off after a couple layers. The only thing I haven't been able to try is with the bed at 150c+ like some have reported success with because of firmware issues.
Glass, glue, contstruction paper, super98 spray adhesive, etc, nothing worked.
Been there, done that... Still have 3/4 of the 200g roll
Good luck getting it to stick and not peal off after a couple layers. The only thing I haven't been able to try is with the bed at 150c+ like some have reported success with because of firmware issues.
Glass, glue, contstruction paper, super98 spray adhesive, etc, nothing worked.
I wonder how it would perform with an enclosure? Do you feel like it was heat issues?
CREEPERBOB
Yashua
Mine does great for my (hobby) purposes and is simple to operate.
I have an A8, and it's definitely not a turn key proposition but if your handy and willing to spend some time to get to know it its a great entry level printer.
I have an A8, and it's definitely not a turn key proposition but if your handy and willing to spend some time to get to know it its a great entry level printer.
JSterrett
Rock Crawler
Maker Select V2 here. Decent prints after mods/tuning, but also requires learning the machine and fixing your own issues.
I think all budget-friendly machines are going to have similar learning curves...
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I think all budget-friendly machines are going to have similar learning curves...
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I have the Maker Select, and I tgought it was very noob friendly. I went from nox to printing in a half hour, and the default Cura settings were good enough to get started. There were some upgrades worth doing, but I printed most of them out for my first prints.
I started several months ago with a PowerSpec Duplicator i3 Plus (rebranded Wanhao) like others said there was and still is a learning curve. I was printing the sample files within 45 minutes of unboxing it. I then printed using the Cura that it came with. After a few prints with that I expanded out and looked at other slicers, one reason was I use Linux. I to printed a few mods for it.
