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3d printer for rc parts
- Thread starter Desmo
- Start date
After a few months, I'm finally at the point where I want to upgrade my cr10s...
Already loaded marlin fw on it, but still need to play with linear advance.
Switched it to a direct drive extruder/fang setup. I had issues where it would under extruded depending on where it was printing on the bed.
Going to make a few braces/dampeners to try and get rid of some of the ripples in the outer wall.
Already loaded marlin fw on it, but still need to play with linear advance.
Switched it to a direct drive extruder/fang setup. I had issues where it would under extruded depending on where it was printing on the bed.
Going to make a few braces/dampeners to try and get rid of some of the ripples in the outer wall.
The Monoprice Select Mini V2 (open box) is $99 right now! Great way to get into 3D printing inexpensively while still getting a great beginner printer.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p..._campaign=181129_thursday&deliveryName=DM5162
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p..._campaign=181129_thursday&deliveryName=DM5162
JSterrett
Rock Crawler
Mine was a "refurb". Due to the burnt electronics smell my guess would be fried board. Had multiple issues beyond that though, absolutely would not by refurbed from them again. When contacted, they basically told me to send it back or **** off, lol. No idea if "open box" is any better.
I did eventually get it repaired and functioning pretty well, but I still kinda feel like something's not right.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I did eventually get it repaired and functioning pretty well, but I still kinda feel like something's not right.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I bought my Maker Select V2.1 Refurb'd and it has bee n great, I haven't had any issues, just did some simple mods (glass bed, DII cooler) other than that I have been printing for a year and put multiple spools worth of filament through it.
JSterrett
Rock Crawler
We had very different experiences then. Tons of screws were loose, y-axis stop switch was broken, extruder gears were caked in old filament, bottom of control box only had 2 screws in it...
Maybe somebody was having a bad day on mine, lol
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Yeah I must have gotten the pick of the litter, I had my first print off the print bed 90 minutes after unboxing. The plastic "chain" that all the cabling runs through is broken where it connects to the extruder and where it connects to the frame on the right side but other than that everything else works great and is cosmetically in good shape. My buildtak sheet was in great shape as well and I only got the glass because I felt like upgrading things not because I felt I had to.
I am currently printing stuff right now and I am sitting at:
Printing time:
18 days 9:56
Filament Printed:
2432.8 m
Just took the last piece of this solder stand off the printer.
Last edited:
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Monoprice is only a distributor, little bit sales knowledge. As Wanhao USA exists that’s the real source. I love my 3Plus, no issues in a year now.
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
Great looking stand!
Guys, you always take a gamble with open boxes. I thought that was common knowledge. When the box is open that means it was in the hands of somebody else to fool with.
The Creality Ender 3 is also on sale for $180. This has some extra verbiage and I don't know what it means nor do I know if it comes standard on all Enders.
https://www.woot.com/offers/sainsma...n=CJ&cjevent=8c36dd6bf4ab11e8805001b20a240612
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
My cr-10 is absolutely great. However I follow two FB groups. One is a CR-10 group and one is a cr10/ender 3 group.
People in the cr-10/ender group are posting endless issues with tuning and various other complaints. Same group there is very little cr10 issues.
I have no experience with the ender, but just based on the feedback I would definitely spend the extra and get another cr-10.
I would definitely do plenty of homework before making a decision on an Ender.
Interesting and good to know. I have no experience with the Ender, but I've seen lots of posts claiming it's the best sliced bread for newbies since the Monoprice Select Mini.
Did you print the body panels on your Dingo on your CR-10?
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
Yes, in ABS without a hood. A feat that I am proud of. I did however utilize a tarp as a draft guard.
Yeah that's a feat for sure. Every time I print ABS it wants to warp as much as my mind. :lmao: That's why I switched to PETG instead.
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
Ordering my first roll on PETG tonight. The PLA is fine, the ABS worked great but at higher temps which I didnt like to leave unattended.
PETG seems like it is a happy in between. Easy enough to use for decorative items but strong enough for some structural stuff.
You had mentioned to be PETG before, I just haven't had time to try it. Been putting it off because the machine is dialed in with a .06 nozzle with .08 layer height, smooth enough two coats of filler primer leave a smooth final coat, but fairly fast printing.
Its hard to walk away from something working.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
I found once I was perfect on PLA, I ran a few temp towers and PETG prints just as good. Both bed and extruder temps. I did a new PID for that temperature as well, no issues at all. I have two PID settings for my printer, and swap when changing filament
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
I'm trying to print this rear bumper and it needs supports, when I do supports using Slic3r PE I get what looks like a raft that sticks out and goes oustside of the tool area. I have tried everything I can think of to make it suck up closer.
I know I could flip it and print without supports but I won't get the same finish on the bumper .
I know I could flip it and print without supports but I won't get the same finish on the bumper .
I've got 2 rolls of PETG both Inland (eSun) and I can not get a decent print out of either roll. Bed Temp 90 and Temp 240 played around with temps and settings. Even releveled the bed. I have pretty much given up and have been printing with Inland PLA+ (eSun+)
Voodoobrew
I wanna be Dave
Petg is more dificult then pla,
first layer should be a bit taller then pla.
First layer should be printed slow, and it will stick like glue on glass at 70deg.
Forget about bridging, it probably wont work.
Supports are sticky, so if you can make the support gap 3x bigger try it.
you will also want to increase the filament retraction speed and distance to reduce stringing.
