Yes, you can limit max power in castle link. About 75% would be the speed you want.
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Have tech questions? Will answer.
- Thread starter JohnRobHolmes
- Start date
Ok good to know, thank you.
I got one, cracked it open and coated the board liberally with conformal coating. It should be pretty easy if you are careful.
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allanon1965
I wanna be Dave
Hey, got my Gen 8 scout and am wanting to get a better motor than the stock one. I think the stock one is 17t and was trying to decide between brushless and brushed. I was thinking a 21t torque master expert or pro would give me more power and torque than the original pus slow it down just a tad
the other option was maybe a BLE and a 2700-3300kv trailmaster pro or a 2700-3500kv puller pro...any suggestions?
the other option was maybe a BLE and a 2700-3300kv trailmaster pro or a 2700-3500kv puller pro...any suggestions?
Brushed I would select a 550 21t. Brushless, 2700kv would be near stock speed I estimate. I almost always use a 3500 Puller if not a 1800 revolver for my personal single speed builds.
allanon1965
I wanna be Dave
I have a 2700 Trailmaster and BLE, it similar to stock, but I'm still fine tuning to get it how I want it.
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On the topic of Gen 8 with a Trailmaster and BLE, I installed one in mine. (the 2700kv one that was available on special)
Trying to go forward, I have to go 1/2-2/3 throttle pull before it will move forward. But I barely touch it to go backwards, and it jumps backwards way faster.
I've tried to recalibrate, tried adjusting in the Castle Link to give it a curve, nothing seems to work.
Any thoughts? I'm still using the stock radio, wondering if that's part of my issue?
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Trying to go forward, I have to go 1/2-2/3 throttle pull before it will move forward. But I barely touch it to go backwards, and it jumps backwards way faster.
I've tried to recalibrate, tried adjusting in the Castle Link to give it a curve, nothing seems to work.
Any thoughts? I'm still using the stock radio, wondering if that's part of my issue?
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mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Sounds like you have reverse and forward backwards. When accelerating the led on the esc should be green, reverse is red. Check that and if OK. Recalibrate your controller to the esc
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
I checked it all out, it is green forwards and red in reverse. Recalibrated multiple times, still takes at least half pull to get forward and barely anything to go in reverse. Also seems to be much faster in reverse.
Starting to wonder if somehow it's got a throttle curve, and it doesn't show it?
Gonna try resetting to stock, if that doesn't work, I may have to try a different radio and see what happens.
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So I played around with the PWM frequency, it seems that it is only doing it when I have it set to dithered mode. Any other frequency, and it responds the way it should. Kinda strange, but if that's what it takes I will switch away from it LOL [emoji23]
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mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Which cable, the sensor cable? No. Honestly I wasn't a huge fan of dithered mode anyway, so it's not a big loss if this is what it takes.
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mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Many issues with sensored motors are due to the cable
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
Hardcoretam
Quarry Creeper
A question that's been puzzling me a little.
If you have two motors, that are of the same design and one is 1500kv and one is 3000kv
They are then installed in two identical trucks.
The 1500kv is set to 100% throttle travel and the 3000kv is set to 50% throttle travel on the transmitters what will the difference be in performance under load and will the rpm of each be the same in real world use if driving on the flat and not geared too long.
If you have two motors, that are of the same design and one is 1500kv and one is 3000kv
They are then installed in two identical trucks.
The 1500kv is set to 100% throttle travel and the 3000kv is set to 50% throttle travel on the transmitters what will the difference be in performance under load and will the rpm of each be the same in real world use if driving on the flat and not geared too long.
Your 3000kv set to 50% will create 4x the conductive heat in the esc plus diode losses (if the esc doesn’t active freewheel) for the same load. Otherwise, nearly identical performing.
That’s very strange and I have no solution! Besides maybe rolling firmware back and forwards.
I'll give that a try, I've got plenty of time while it's Sub-Zero temps again! [emoji1787]
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