- Wheels are the same offset of our current 1.9 wheels
- Not without modifications
- yes a 25T and 23T insert are includes for the steering servo arm.
Thanks. Will you, please, share a dimension of the offset when you get a chance?
- Wheels are the same offset of our current 1.9 wheels
- Not without modifications
- yes a 25T and 23T insert are includes for the steering servo arm.
It really seems that no one was willing to look at the measurements that are posted at all the product sites - thanks a MILLION for posting the pics, maybe some of the chatter about this just being another Bomber or Wraith will die down.
BTW - being as small and light as the little "cabrito" is, I would never try to cram a 550 can in one - a good 540 brushed should be plenty!
....Also - with the portals giving extra ground clearance, this would be neat to test your skills while running smaller tires, might look more scale at the same time.
Don't really need all that sidewall if you pick your lines well....
Not a fan of the geometry but I'm sure someone will come along with a printed skid and upper link mount that fixes it.
Placed order with the LHS an hour ago, should be here around the 26th.
I’m thinking 4.19 Goodyear MTRs [emoji848]
Please elaborate on why it's garbage geometry and how you would have made it."thumbsup"
I wonder if the dig unit can be set up for 3 positions? (lock, freewheel, drive) Is that a "thing" or not needed? I guess I could see benefits.
Single triangulated suspension causes the axle to swing in an arc while articulating. In this case the axle swings in a smile pivoting off of the virtual center of where the lower links converge.
I personally prefer dual triangulated links so the axle pivots at whatever the average of the virtual center for the upper and lower links is. As a rule that is the middle of the axle so there is little swing action going on during articulation.
Everyone has... well the majority of buyers don't have half of a clue what geometry is or how it affects their rig. They just do whatever it is someone else do with no questions. I would raise the upper links at the rear axle (guessing since I don't have the rig in front of me obviously) about 3/8" and at the chassis about 1/4" so there is much more control over wrap and squat.
Placed order with the LHS an hour ago, should be here around the 26th.
I’m thinking 4.19 Goodyear MTRs or a set of 4.19 ChooDoo’s?![]()
Single triangulated suspension causes the axle to swing in an arc while articulating. In this case the axle swings in a smile pivoting off of the virtual center of where the lower links converge.
I personally prefer dual triangulated links so the axle pivots at whatever the average of the virtual center for the upper and lower links is. As a rule that is the middle of the axle so there is little swing action going on during articulation.
Everyone has... well the majority of buyers don't have half of a clue what geometry is or how it affects their rig. They just do whatever it is someone else do with no questions. I would raise the upper links at the rear axle (guessing since I don't have the rig in front of me obviously) about 3/8" and at the chassis about 1/4" so there is much more control over wrap and squat.
Capra axles on my bomber would be nice, and look really scale. Lots of nice features on the Carpa, but I don’t like the design of the cage and front grille. I think the cage looks to narrow.
The uppers are still triangulated, it just pushes the convergence point way out past the axle. Combined with the lowers, this will have a low flat roll center which is a good thing with portals.
I'll be the first to admit I don't know much about suspension geometry. How is this not considered dual triangulation? Are the upper links not close enough together on the axle?
I do know that when the links are too close together on an axle the rig seems to be floppier side to side and less stable overall in my experience.
Fawking barely. :ror: the convergence is 20' away from the rig.
Give me the rear geometry that I want and I'll live with a crappy front end. The front isn't bad enough to make me change it immediately and I'd bet the rear won't make me happy. Throw some weight on them knuckles with some sticky tires and let's go play.
It's all about the tune. Throw the right shock setup at each suspension setup and things change. Just changing geometry by itself usually isn't the hot ticket for performance.
So is there an ideal geometry for every situation or does it vary?
The skid does have places to raise the rear links, but that doesn't move the links in our out.
The Power HD TR-4 runs on 7.4v and should fit. It's also waterproof.Is there any way to build this without dig (in the interim until a HV micro servo can be acquired).
Yes and no. Easy button is to set a rig up pretty neutral so it's good at everything and let your driving ability make it great at certain things that matter to you.
You can set a rig up so it turns on a dime but it's going to suck at climbing. Everything is a tradeoff.