Any proof of that or is it an internet rumor? I want nothing to do with anything that may give Amazon money.
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3d printer for rc parts
- Thread starter Desmo
- Start date
Any proof of that or is it an internet rumor? I want nothing to do with anything that may give Amazon money.
svt923
I wanna be Dave
There will probably never be any confirmation but one day all the Amazon filament went out of stock then the Overture brand popped up on top of the Amazon search results with identical colors, packaging, and the same measurement markings on the spool.
I think it was more likely that whoever makes the Overture filament was also making the Amazon filament.
That's what I was thinking. I doubt Amazon makes anything. They probably just have companies rebrand their stuff with the Amazon logo.
Overture has their own website. My spool of filament did include the Overture build surface which was a nice surprise.
https://overture3d.com/
This question is to all of you with the Prusa i3. Did you buy the kit or assembled? If you bought the kit, was it tedious to calibrate?
I'm fine with the building part, but difficult or tedious calibration would drive me nuts.
You didn't say in your post. Did you get the Prusa kit or assembled version?
Now the kit is $250 cheaper! That's a big chunk of money.
Was your toolboox printed in two colors with the casters or did you glue those on later? I'm a huge fan of the idea of having the ability to print multicolor prints.
Good to know they need very little to keep them running in a place where I assume they see a lot of work.
I'm fine with the building part, but difficult or tedious calibration would drive me nuts.
You didn't say in your post. Did you get the Prusa kit or assembled version?
Now the kit is $250 cheaper! That's a big chunk of money.
Was your toolboox printed in two colors with the casters or did you glue those on later? I'm a huge fan of the idea of having the ability to print multicolor prints.
Good to know they need very little to keep them running in a place where I assume they see a lot of work.
svt923
I wanna be Dave
I got the kit because of the whole significantly cheaper thing.
It is actually really easy to calibrate because the setup wizard does much of it automatically and it explains pretty much anything you have to do manually on the screen and when to do it.
Xx Losungen xX
Rock Crawler
Don't know, what I do know is that the stuff that was once there worked well, and that rumor or fact led me to try the other stuff with the same results for the same price, was good enough for me.
I was thinking after all the assembly and calibration from Prusa, when buying the pre-built version, there's a long way over the ocean for it to get bumped out of calibration. Those concerns were verified just not as I finished watching a video from the 3D Printing Nerd. He got the fully assembled and calibrated version, but his was out of calibration when he received it. Seems like I should save the $250.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9p-rfK8LLUY
My Hatchbox PETG was printing pretty well. I simply switched to the Overture PETG and it won't print. I gotta do some more tinkering with my printer tomorrow to see what's going on. For those paying attention, I did replace the broken lever. I remembered a spare, plastic version was included in the box and I found it so I installed it and tried printing again tonight a few times to no avail.
Ah I couldn't hold out any longer...I caved and ordered an i3 MK3S kit tonight. The Mini is backordered until April and the i3 kit is only 2-3 weeks out so that made the decision for me. I'm excited! :mrgreen:
Xx Losungen xX
Rock Crawler
I don't think its diameter is as consistent. I haven't had issues with it but I've heard of a few who have for sure.
Xx Losungen xX
Rock Crawler
Wooo new toy! Grats!
gsgraber92
Pebble Pounder
soze
I wanna be Dave
Nice Jato. I think you'll like it.
JSterrett
Rock Crawler
Nah, calibration is super easy.
Toolbox/casters were printed separately. Multi-color requires the MMU upgrade, and I haven't made that plunge yet. I just designed recesses for the caster to sit in.
And congrats on the order. They are a bit spendy, but for me the convenience of just being able to load the Gcode and go has been worth it...
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Thanks all! I'm sure I'll love it. It'll be tough to wait the month to receive it! LOL
Have any of you tried Prusa filament?
The MMU looks awesome. I didn't know if you just stopped the print and switched filament. I tried that in my Monoprice Select Mini and it never worked well. Apparently it works much better on the Prusa.
Have any of you tried Prusa filament?
The MMU looks awesome. I didn't know if you just stopped the print and switched filament. I tried that in my Monoprice Select Mini and it never worked well. Apparently it works much better on the Prusa.
JSterrett
Rock Crawler
Yeah, the wait sucked, lol. I believe you get a 1kg roll with your printer (at least I did). Worked very well for me. And yes, mid-print filament change is a breeze, and runout detection has saved a few prints for me already (as evidenced by the toolbox).
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
QuesoDelDiablo
RCC Addict
Ridiculously easy to calibrate. I've set up 7 kit builds (assembled 2 myself, had the others assembled by co-workers) since April and the only one that gave me any grief was the one assembled by a guy who thought he was too smart to follow the (very clear and easy to follow) instructions.
As long as you're reasonably careful on the assembly they auto-calibrate themselves first time every time. They even compensate for poor bed alignment up to 2mm so have to botch it pretty badly to fail calibration.
The only slightly complicated part of the build is putting the filament runout sensor together and even with that, it's just a matter following the instructions carefully. The newer versions even have an improved runout sensor (mechanical vs. optical) and the newer ones are not actually that tricky - the older optical sensors were really temperamental.
Build time is around 6-10hrs.
Also, I highly reccomend the new powder bedsheets, the pei is awesome but the powder coated are even better. I think all the new kits come with pc but it's a good thing to verify with the seller.
Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
QuesoDelDiablo
RCC Addict
The prusa filament is great, not the absolute BEST I've ever used but in the top few for sure.
And about the mmu-
We've got an mmu2 set up but we've never been able to get it running with 100% reliability. It jams on at least 3/5 filament changes.
The software is really good and you can almost always recover the prints but it blows your print time up by constantly have check/fix jams but I've basically given up on it.
And it takes up a lot of space with 5 filament spools that all need to be on the table behind the printer.
Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
And about the mmu-
We've got an mmu2 set up but we've never been able to get it running with 100% reliability. It jams on at least 3/5 filament changes.
The software is really good and you can almost always recover the prints but it blows your print time up by constantly have check/fix jams but I've basically given up on it.
And it takes up a lot of space with 5 filament spools that all need to be on the table behind the printer.
Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
k7zpj
RCC Addict
Getting the MMU2 working successfully takes a lot of time to get the filament profiles right so you don't get jams and you have to have the filament sensors adjusted correctly to make it reliable.
I have my MMU to the point where I am only having to do manual interventions once per 5000 color changes. It is really nice once you have it working.
It is critical that the printer is working perfectly before adding the MMU2. I would wait 6 months to get used to your printer before ordering it.
Using Prusa filament is a good way to start since there are really good filament profiles in PrusaSlicer 2.
k7zpj
RCC Addict
Congratulations on the new printer. I think going the kit route is the right decision. When the new set up of upgrades come out, you will be comfortable with taking the printer apart and installing the upgrades.
If you don't have an 8mm drill bit, you will want to get one. The rod holes in the x-axis parts are not round. You need to use the drill bit as reamer to make the rods fit correctly. A lot of people hammer them in and end up with bent rods which causes all kinds of problems.
QuesoDelDiablo
RCC Addict
I wish I'd thought to mention this sooner, it might be a big deal to some people, probably not an issue at all to most people though. Most of these printers that we're talking about are not actually certified to safety standards for North America (i.e. UL, CSA or one of other many regulating bodies).
The main issue was the power supply on them (the Prusa's now come with a UL certified supply) but there's other issues for the complete units as well. The two issues to rectify in order to get our Prusa's certified by CSA are firstly the power supply but also, any material that may be in close proximity to heat or electricity need to be made from a fireproof material (we used fireproof ABS but other materials might be available too). On the units that needed them we ordered a new PS from Digikey and for the fireproof parts we ordered a couple spools and printed them before building the machine since Prusa includes all thr neccasary stl's.
As I said, probably not an issue for most people but there is the possibility that non-certified electrical equipment could potentially void an insurance policy in the event of a fire.
Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
The main issue was the power supply on them (the Prusa's now come with a UL certified supply) but there's other issues for the complete units as well. The two issues to rectify in order to get our Prusa's certified by CSA are firstly the power supply but also, any material that may be in close proximity to heat or electricity need to be made from a fireproof material (we used fireproof ABS but other materials might be available too). On the units that needed them we ordered a new PS from Digikey and for the fireproof parts we ordered a couple spools and printed them before building the machine since Prusa includes all thr neccasary stl's.
As I said, probably not an issue for most people but there is the possibility that non-certified electrical equipment could potentially void an insurance policy in the event of a fire.
Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
