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buying bolts in bulk

Looks like these are the ones to get. I did a few searches on the common nuts and bolts one might need. Best I have done is this tread and the previous order that "hairba11" made.


m3 nylock nuts
m3 washers,
M3x25, M3x12,
M4 nylock,
M5 nylock

One would think there would be a list of common nuts and screws one would need to keep on hand for building and maintaining our crawlers.
 
Looks like these are the ones to get. I did a few searches on the common nuts and bolts one might need. Best I have done is this tread and the previous order that "hairba11" made.


m3 nylock nuts
m3 washers,
M3x25, M3x12,
M4 nylock,
M5 nylock

One would think there would be a list of common nuts and screws one would need to keep on hand for building and maintaining our crawlers.
i think it's one thing to say you can cut down longer bolts to size but to do it is actually quite a pain in the butt if you don't have a band saw. mcmaster generally sells 100 bolts of a particular length and head type for ~$5 give or take a buck so i'd just one bag of pretty much all of their lengths over 6mm and not look back.

i'm still looking for a good source for tapping screws. mcmaster's price on them is even worse than if you ordered them from tower, like $6-8 for a pack of 10. it'd be nice to get a bag of 50 2x8 and 3x8 tapping screws but i'd rather not pay 60-80 cents each. anyone have any leads?
 
I went to my hardware store today for some sheetmetal for skidplates and decided to check out the prices on the bolts and stuff. The same m3x12 bolts i bought from mcmaster's were $.29 EACH. That's ridiculous considering they were 100 for $6 at mcmaster's.
 
That's great I have a fastenal store just opened near me, I'll have to check them out. I've been buying mine from www.MSC.com. The price is pretty good and shipping is not bad. But having a store close will be great.
Thanks for the tip.

I think he ment: www.MSCdirect.com

If you plan to by fasteners in bulk, (1000+) there are a number of places you can go for cheap pricing. A good one is: http://www.metricmcc.com/ You may need to set up an account with them to order first.

As others have stated for general use / smaller quantities and one stop shopping you just can't beat the service of McMaster Carr.
 
Sorry to revive this old thread but I guess that is the reason we have a search button. I am thinking of ordering from www.mcmaster.com and am wondering which type of Nylocks to buy for my Redcat Gen8? They have high, medium, low strength steel, stainless, super corrosion resistant 316 Stainless steel, Aluminum and Titanium. So many choices and I am new so what should I go with. I would think Super Corrosion Resistant 316, plain stainless or aluminum, but I want to confirm. Same question applies to screws and other hardware. What type of material is the best to get for Crawling purposes?


Thanks!
 
Sorry to revive this old thread but I guess that is the reason we have a search button. I am thinking of ordering from www.mcmaster.com and am wondering which type of Nylocks to buy for my Redcat Gen8? They have high, medium, low strength steel, stainless, super corrosion resistant 316 Stainless steel, Aluminum and Titanium. So many choices and I am new so what should I go with. I would think Super Corrosion Resistant 316, plain stainless or aluminum, but I want to confirm. Same question applies to screws and other hardware. What type of material is the best to get for Crawling purposes?


Thanks!

On a scaler hardware strength is less important than something like a basher. Go with stainless steel or zinc plated steel. Most RC screw companies use 18-8 or 304 stainless steel. 316 SS is typically more brittle than 304 SS which is obviously bad in RC hardware.
 
On a scaler hardware strength is less important than something like a basher. Go with stainless steel or zinc plated steel. Most RC screw companies use 18-8 or 304 stainless steel. 316 SS is typically more brittle than 304 SS which is obviously bad in RC hardware.

Just dont get the cheapest ones or the aluminum ones and you'll be all set

Thanks guys! They have so many options! I would rather go with strong crews so if I do get a basher I can use the same screws with it.

I guess I will just go with the 18-8 stainless Steel Nylon-insert lock nuts? I think I do not have to go with the Military standard spec ones, but let me know if it is a good idea to buy those.

I also realized that they have regular, thin, and extra wide versions of them. I assume I go with regular?

As far as the flange lock nuts, I assume go with the stainless steel with serrated flanges? or do I go with nylon-inset flange lock nuts with the same specs as above? There is so much to learn about this hobby!
 
Pop in at your local ‘engineering bolt & nut’ supplier. Whoever sells bolts and nut in bulk. They will have everything you need and it will be plenty strong. You have to really try hard to break a ss m3 screw in a rc. You’ll break a lot of other things before you snap a screw...


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Thanks guys! They have so many options! I would rather go with strong crews so if I do get a basher I can use the same screws with it.

I guess I will just go with the 18-8 stainless Steel Nylon-insert lock nuts? I think I do not have to go with the Military standard spec ones, but let me know if it is a good idea to buy those.

I also realized that they have regular, thin, and extra wide versions of them. I assume I go with regular?

As far as the flange lock nuts, I assume go with the stainless steel with serrated flanges? or do I go with nylon-inset flange lock nuts with the same specs as above? There is so much to learn about this hobby!

I'd still stay with 18-8/304 SS screws for bashers.

No, do not buy MIL-SPEC hardware. It's just more expensive for no good reason.

Regular nuts are fine in most applications. I don't know about Redcat as I don't have any of their vehicles, but some Axial trucks do use thin nuts for various reasons.

The only time I used serrated nuts on RC's is for plastic wheels. The serrations bite into the plastic wheels and that helps prevent the wheel nut from loosening.

Learning is part of the fun IMO and that's a big reason I get addicted to new hobbies. :ror:
 
I have been looking to buy replacement screws and am wondering if there is black screw that also resists oxidation and corrosion as stainless steel does. All the screws I see on my V8 are black. Are they that 10.9 grade black oxide type? Is that what I should go with for replacements? From previous responses it seems that 304 stainless is the way to go, but the screws will be zinc/chrome colored and would clash, when exposed, with the other screws and the chassis in general. While I am not anal, it does detract from the scaling, but I would like to get screws that wont corrode as I live in south Florida and I can see my son playing with this on the beach; it will get rained on and get wet going through shallow water.

Is it safe to go with the 10.9 Black oxide, such as is found in this kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G1BZFM...olid=2Q6ZGLFWRD0IQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it or should I just go with SS as is found on this kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VZTSHB...olid=2Q6ZGLFWRD0IQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I rather keep everything black, but I don't want to have to remove a screw in a hard to reach area that may require significant disassembly because a screw is oxidizing.

I think I am fretting the oxidation a bit. Perhaps it takes longer for it to be a problem than I imagine. But I have found that 18-8 stainless steel treated with black oxide do exist, they are just hard to find in small quantities and are Phillips head. I cannot find them with a Hex Head unless it is button and I am looking for a flat head, countersunk M2.5. Any one know a source for them?
 
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I have been looking to buy replacement screws and am
wondering if there is black screw that also resists oxidation and corrosion as stainless
steel does.


For black oxide hardware--If the screw is metal on metal I would treat the threads with
anti-seize compound or even grease so corrosion is less of a problem.

Even if it's threaded into nylon or Delrin (plastic), I would still use anti-seize or grease.

If it's a socket-head allen screw, you could pack the socket with grease or melted wax
and just drive on.
 
I would say:
  • For 100+ each, McMaster (buy the longest for each diameter and shorten as needed?)
  • For assortment for a specific model, RCScrewZ. I would say they only have silver screws, I personally don't like them as much as black ones.
  • For weight reduction, (pricy) Ti screws, Lundsford Racing, they have specific vehicle kits and also size packs.
 
Mickey Carr that's too funny. The Atlanta warehouse is a mile from my house. Will call next day. Grainger never has anything. The Fastenal warehouse is ten minutes away and MSC is about twenty. Mickey usually has what I need. If you're looking for something smaller go to a model railroad site. Special shapes.com I got some 0-80 hex head bolts I made into valve stems. Get in touch if you're interested in seeing them
 
i order my hardware on ebay i usually get 100 of each length and get 1000+ at a time and its usually around $75 shipped and im stocked up for a long time
 
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