ModTrialsRider
Rock Stacker
Greetings RCCRAWLERS!!!!
I'm so excited writing this post. IT'S FINALLY DONE!!!!
So much agony, so much time and pain, utter, sheer, PAIN.
SO, MUCH, PAAAAAIN.
Oh heck, who am I kidding? I enjoyed every second of it... So without further gilding the lily, meet Janky (Janks for short,) and his own working 22R!
Every story deserves to start at the beginning so here's the link to his humble beginnings. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/1-9-scale-rigs/508478-homefab-hilux-truggy-input-needed.html
So I'll start off with some pictures of the engine, a quick look into how I did it, and then finish it off with some overall pictures of Janky. This thread serves two purposes for me, (1) to primarily showcase the horribly unscale engine I built so others can have the opportunity to build their own renditions of it should they wish, and (2) to document the current finish of my truck.
MONEY SHOTS!!!
Pretty horrible huh? Yes... I could have spent close to a year custom fabbing styrene mm to mm to make a completely scale engine as I have seen other true RC artisans make, but I chose functionality (or... severe lack thereof,) at the cost of "some" scale-ism. Please excuse it. ;-)
And yes... to answer your next question, that really is a timing belt rotating around (counter-clockwise I may add, like the real 22R,) four Traxxas bearings, incased in servo box with a teeny Tamiya motor/gearbox set in front of two Integy fans which, also work. Does it do any good? Not in the least. Does it suck battery power? You better believe it. Does it get decent MPG? Technically speaking it's a hybrid so, yes. Does it sound cool? The answer to that is a resounding YES. It sounds incredible, like a real 4-banger. Except, at 1/10 the size... and electric... but you know whatever... :roll:
SO here's few pics and some quick wording on how I went about it. Please note I have NEVER done this before and a lot of it was trial and error... lots and lots of errors. And several renditions to boot, lots of excessive hole drilling and such. But it works.
So I started with this...
And then built it. Please note the gear ratio chosen in the picture is NOT the end ratio I went with. Unfortunately to get this motor to spin in realistic form I had to MAX out the gear ratio. The end gear ratio I used was the second highest, at 5.1:1 - 1224 RPM - 25 gf.cm Torque.
The worlds cheapest alternator.
Intake and Exhaust. Believe it or not, that darned fuel filter was the catylyst behind the whole project. I wanted it to stick out of the hood (back when the truck had a hood,) and one thing led to another and the end result is what is seen here. The exhaust was made out of leftover Traxxas RX box plastic, then some soft aluminum weld rode bent into pre-drilled holes. Add a really "Janky" fuel rod over the whole thing and yeah... totally ghetto I know but it serves it's purpose.
And lets not forget the timing belt tensioner!
Almost there! Here is the Tamiya Gearbox/motor combo jammed into a heavily Dremeled-out servo box (standard-size servo box btw,) with the attached pulley, belt, and bearings. Some quick notes on this:
-All three pieces of the empty servo box were use to complete it! This means you can incase the whole Tamiya Gearbox in it.
-Four traxxas bearings were used, #4019 I believe. The smallest ones they sell 4x3x7(?)
-Several size washers were use to keep the belt on during rotation, and the smaller washers were pressed near the inner race of the bearings for free movement.
-Timing belt is a tiny cream-colored rubber band available at Office-Depot. Adding two belts would fill out the system better, but simply adding one more belt actually slowed down the Tamiya Gearbox motorset. So I used only one.
-Belt was Sharpied black, then used an industry paint pen to paint the yellow on to allow it to "pop" during rotations!
-If you do this, be prepared for the belt system to be uneven, as you are bolting the whole thing to malleable plastic (Servo-box.)
-Servobox was pre-drilled to accommodate different lengths M3 bolts. Don't worry, they fit!
-The Tamiya gearbox spindle has shaft-couplings that were ground out in the inner diameter a bit and then I used set screws to bolt them in place over the shaft. Two were used, and they drive the "rubber-band" timing belt system.
Now lets power it Cap'n! IV'E GOT THAH POWUR!!! Battery holder and switch courtesy of Radio Shack (RIP,) solderings done by yours truly.
Switch installed upside down to access it from the bottom of the truck, and double-sided sticky taped the battery holder underneath as well. Take note of the switch underneath!
20150417_015746_HDR by A+G vIsUaLs, on Flickr
Now onto the sweeeeeetest part. The oh-so hawt motor cover! Used the original servo box plate, painted it red, added paper (covered in laminate,) emblems, then clear-coated the whole thing. Sharpied the bolt patterns on for added flair.
Oh, almost forgot. Custom painted Integy's. Here's a good time to note these fans run full time on the trucks 3s Lipo (unless unhooked,) whereas the motor runs off of it's own 3v power supply (hence the two AAA batts.)
And here it is almost ready for install. The note I'll add here is the ignition coil is yet another shaft-coupling with (go ahead, laugh,) the string from a set of wrap-around earplugs incased into the "block". The coil is mounted via double-sided sticky tape with the wires glued into it, and the other end of the wires BOLTED INTO the crevice that holds the blocks top-end and bottom end together. BE forewarned, I did have to pre-file holes to make them fit.
And since Pulse is powering Janks with a 2250mah 3s I thought it only fitting. Lots of styrene wrapped in electrical tape, leftover wires to make it look somewhat real.
Oh yes, one last note, I personally like the idea of variety. For this purpose I chose to use double-sided sticky tape EVERYWHERE I could, in case I felt like changing something later on down the road. The air box, ignition coil, headers, even the entire motor itself is taped onto the truck. It's all removable!
More weirdness to come!!!!!!!! "thumbsup"
I'm so excited writing this post. IT'S FINALLY DONE!!!!
So much agony, so much time and pain, utter, sheer, PAIN. SO, MUCH, PAAAAAIN.
Oh heck, who am I kidding? I enjoyed every second of it... So without further gilding the lily, meet Janky (Janks for short,) and his own working 22R!
Every story deserves to start at the beginning so here's the link to his humble beginnings. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/1-9-scale-rigs/508478-homefab-hilux-truggy-input-needed.html
So I'll start off with some pictures of the engine, a quick look into how I did it, and then finish it off with some overall pictures of Janky. This thread serves two purposes for me, (1) to primarily showcase the horribly unscale engine I built so others can have the opportunity to build their own renditions of it should they wish, and (2) to document the current finish of my truck.
MONEY SHOTS!!!
Pretty horrible huh? Yes... I could have spent close to a year custom fabbing styrene mm to mm to make a completely scale engine as I have seen other true RC artisans make, but I chose functionality (or... severe lack thereof,) at the cost of "some" scale-ism. Please excuse it. ;-)
And yes... to answer your next question, that really is a timing belt rotating around (counter-clockwise I may add, like the real 22R,) four Traxxas bearings, incased in servo box with a teeny Tamiya motor/gearbox set in front of two Integy fans which, also work. Does it do any good? Not in the least. Does it suck battery power? You better believe it. Does it get decent MPG? Technically speaking it's a hybrid so, yes. Does it sound cool? The answer to that is a resounding YES. It sounds incredible, like a real 4-banger. Except, at 1/10 the size... and electric... but you know whatever... :roll:
SO here's few pics and some quick wording on how I went about it. Please note I have NEVER done this before and a lot of it was trial and error... lots and lots of errors. And several renditions to boot, lots of excessive hole drilling and such. But it works.
So I started with this...
And then built it. Please note the gear ratio chosen in the picture is NOT the end ratio I went with. Unfortunately to get this motor to spin in realistic form I had to MAX out the gear ratio. The end gear ratio I used was the second highest, at 5.1:1 - 1224 RPM - 25 gf.cm Torque.
The worlds cheapest alternator.
Intake and Exhaust. Believe it or not, that darned fuel filter was the catylyst behind the whole project. I wanted it to stick out of the hood (back when the truck had a hood,) and one thing led to another and the end result is what is seen here. The exhaust was made out of leftover Traxxas RX box plastic, then some soft aluminum weld rode bent into pre-drilled holes. Add a really "Janky" fuel rod over the whole thing and yeah... totally ghetto I know but it serves it's purpose.
And lets not forget the timing belt tensioner!
Almost there! Here is the Tamiya Gearbox/motor combo jammed into a heavily Dremeled-out servo box (standard-size servo box btw,) with the attached pulley, belt, and bearings. Some quick notes on this:
-All three pieces of the empty servo box were use to complete it! This means you can incase the whole Tamiya Gearbox in it.
-Four traxxas bearings were used, #4019 I believe. The smallest ones they sell 4x3x7(?)
-Several size washers were use to keep the belt on during rotation, and the smaller washers were pressed near the inner race of the bearings for free movement.
-Timing belt is a tiny cream-colored rubber band available at Office-Depot. Adding two belts would fill out the system better, but simply adding one more belt actually slowed down the Tamiya Gearbox motorset. So I used only one.
-Belt was Sharpied black, then used an industry paint pen to paint the yellow on to allow it to "pop" during rotations!
-If you do this, be prepared for the belt system to be uneven, as you are bolting the whole thing to malleable plastic (Servo-box.)
-Servobox was pre-drilled to accommodate different lengths M3 bolts. Don't worry, they fit!
-The Tamiya gearbox spindle has shaft-couplings that were ground out in the inner diameter a bit and then I used set screws to bolt them in place over the shaft. Two were used, and they drive the "rubber-band" timing belt system.
Now lets power it Cap'n! IV'E GOT THAH POWUR!!! Battery holder and switch courtesy of Radio Shack (RIP,) solderings done by yours truly.
Switch installed upside down to access it from the bottom of the truck, and double-sided sticky taped the battery holder underneath as well. Take note of the switch underneath!
20150417_015746_HDR by A+G vIsUaLs, on FlickrNow onto the sweeeeeetest part. The oh-so hawt motor cover! Used the original servo box plate, painted it red, added paper (covered in laminate,) emblems, then clear-coated the whole thing. Sharpied the bolt patterns on for added flair.
Oh, almost forgot. Custom painted Integy's. Here's a good time to note these fans run full time on the trucks 3s Lipo (unless unhooked,) whereas the motor runs off of it's own 3v power supply (hence the two AAA batts.)
And here it is almost ready for install. The note I'll add here is the ignition coil is yet another shaft-coupling with (go ahead, laugh,) the string from a set of wrap-around earplugs incased into the "block". The coil is mounted via double-sided sticky tape with the wires glued into it, and the other end of the wires BOLTED INTO the crevice that holds the blocks top-end and bottom end together. BE forewarned, I did have to pre-file holes to make them fit.
And since Pulse is powering Janks with a 2250mah 3s I thought it only fitting. Lots of styrene wrapped in electrical tape, leftover wires to make it look somewhat real.
Oh yes, one last note, I personally like the idea of variety. For this purpose I chose to use double-sided sticky tape EVERYWHERE I could, in case I felt like changing something later on down the road. The air box, ignition coil, headers, even the entire motor itself is taped onto the truck. It's all removable!
More weirdness to come!!!!!!!! "thumbsup"
