1/5 Scale Brave Motorsports U4 Car

[WesTX]

One more note for my recollection, looks like HPI 5B shocks will work perfect for me. Front shocks for the front (187mm extended, 127mm compressed) and rear shocks in the rear (207mm extended, 137mm compressed). That actually works out to close to 1/5 scale if considering 14" travel front shocks and 16" travel rear shocks.

Here is a shot of the wheels and tires I want to run. If the tires dont perform super well, will take out every other row of lugs.

Wes

 

[WesTX]

Wheels should be here today. Waiting on laser cut parts then I can start with tube work. Should get a lot done between the 16-19th of March when the wife and kids are gone for a few days.

Wes

 

[twissted]

Here is the diff that I built. You may want to try it on this build. You can make it wide or narrow depending in your needs.
I know that when I get the chance that I will be wanting to do a build like this also.

 

[WesTX]

Wheels came in from Motoworx. Super nice quality and will be a killer wheel for this thing. Going to powdercoat them gold similar to the Brave rig since I now have a powdercoat setup at home for a small side business I have.

Wes

 

[twissted]

That is a great looking wheel! I tried some 1/5 scale wheels and also 40 series and they are heavy. You can't beat the looks though.
I will building 1/6 scale Bomber using the Yeti XL cage and build some more Kyosho Mad Force axles. I will be building for looks and performance so I will be keeping the weigh down as much as possible. I think it will be a fun project just as this build your doing is.
I will skin it in aluminum so as it gets used it will look even more scale.

 

[WesTX]

A bit more progress with parts and sorting things out.

Suspension - I am hoping Kraken gets a full parts listing out there and I can buy the trailing arms from their Vekta 5 for the rear. These look to be about 11.5-12" long, as the wheelbase of that car is 23.94" and it looks based on my ruler to computer screen measurements its close to half of the wheelbase for trailing arm length. So that plus the 3.5" for my skid length for the center skid gets me to 15-15.5", so to get to the 23-24" wheelbase I still need 8-9" length. Looking at Yeti XL trailing arms they are 7.75", so that will work. That makes trailing arms easy for me. Then upper links have to be worked out, but those are much simpler.

Axles - Was browsing RC4WD's site looking for axle options for another project and saw they had the Kyosho aluminum axle housings in stock. Ordered them right away, will make a short section of extension tube for the short side and long side to get them both long enough to use Losi XXL CVD shafts (135mm inner shaft length). Biggest issue is sorting out an upper link mount for these aluminum housings. Shouldnt be too much of an issue though, will engineer something.

Should be picking up all of my laser cut plates including new base for the skid/tranny mount to integrate trailing arm mounts. Will post pics of that when I pick them up.

Wes

 

[twissted]

Have the axles come in?

 

[WesTX]

Yes. Check the thread in the kyosho section.

Wes

 

[WesTX]

Got the rest of the laser cut pieces for the skid with lower link mounts. Going to hopefully weld those up tonight.

Also got the RC4WD Aluminum Axles in and build some spacers to run (2) 135mm inner shafts from a Losi XXXL. Roughly assembled an axle (still need to drill and tap spacers for screws, will also integrate the new truss I am going to make). 18.5" outside of tire to outside of tire. in 1/5 scale that would be 92.5" outside to outside in 1:1, so pretty close to actual width of a fullsize rig.

And damn, this all looks huge. Cant wait for this thing to be assembled!


Wes

 

[WesTX]

Tube should start getting cut, bent and welded tonight. Will go slow until next week where there should be a lot of progress in that department. Here is a pic of the plate I had cut for the upper shock mounts. Small one with notches for tube is the front shock mount, large V shaped plates are rear shock mounts. Thats going to make those tubes hard to get perfect for bending, but should look killer when I do get them bent right.

Wes

 

[WesTX]

Tube work has begun. This will be the cab section. This is a pillar to b pillar in case it's not obvious.

Wes

 

[TacoCrawler]

I like big... so I hafta' follow along.

maybe I missed it ?

is this going to be gas or electric ?

 

[WesTX]

Starting with an Traxxas summit 2 speed transmission with Kershaw designs twin 700 series motor setup. Will likely keep the summit transmission and swap to a Castle 1/5 scale motor setup once I get it built.

Wes

 

[twissted]

There is no need for a 1/5 scale motor with this build. If you want big power with a small can get a TP-power TP 4060 (1870 KV)- TP Power motors are made of the best materials that are avai It will break all the parts you can stand! They also have censored motors that will do the same.

 

[twissted]

I think that aluminum and my favorite Carbon fiber would have been a better choice. The CVD's will not do weight over 20 pounds very long. You have a lot invested in this build and some of the parts that your using will not hold up. The diff also will need to be beefed up and you will be shearing pins left and right.
I have a large scale that is cutting edge and all of this has to be covered in order to be worth while. I do have another 1/5 scale build that is over the top and tons of money went into it because I used the wrong parts. I see this in this build and thought I would give you the chance to re think what your using for materials.
What do you think this will weigh when your done? I'm guessing 35 pounds.

 

[WesTX]

There is no need for a 1/5 scale motor with this build. If you want big power with a small can get a TP-power TP 4060 (1870 KV)- TP Power motors are made of the best materials that are avai It will break all the parts you can stand! They also have censored motors that will do the same.

The castle link setup for the ESC and the motor combo package is why I want that setup. Proven system, support from Castle.

I think that aluminum and my favorite Carbon fiber would have been a better choice. The CVD's will not do weight over 20 pounds very long. You have a lot invested in this build and some of the parts that your using will not hold up. The diff also will need to be beefed up and you will be shearing pins left and right.
I have a large scale that is cutting edge and all of this has to be covered in order to be worth while. I do have another 1/5 scale build that is over the top and tons of money went into it because I used the wrong parts. I see this in this build and thought I would give you the chance to re think what your using for materials.
What do you think this will weigh when your done? I'm guessing 35 pounds.

I disagree with you 100% on this. Look at some of these guys running rigs weighing 10-12 lbs on Axial axles, which are half the size of these or even smaller. These Kyosho axles are stout, not quite 1/5 scale shafts which are usually 12mm OD stub shafts, but still very strong. The weight of the stock rig these shafts came from was 13 lbs. As far as the hex pins, etc. I use spring pins that have a very high breaking strength. I can do the same thing with the CVD pins if I end up having any issues with them.

I should be in the 22-25 lb range based on my calc's. I have no concerns on strength.

Wes

 

[WesTX]

Just stumbled on some HPI 5B shocks on fleabay for a good price. Ordered those while I could. More chassis fab should happen this evening, then Ill be on hold for chassis fab until late next week.

Wes

 

[twissted]

Ok... I said my piece. This is a great build and it will be fun to see when it's done.

 

[WesTX]

Sorry I didn't mean to come off like a dick. I just don't think I'll have issues based on past experience. I do appreciate the input either way.

More chassis updates to come late tonight after kids are asleep and I get out to the garage.

Wes

 

[WesTX]

Got a bit more done with the tube work tonight. Finished the main cab section I started yesterday and started work on the rear clip. Have more of the rear section tube cut, just need to fit and weld them. Got tired tonight and didn't want the quality of work to suffer from that.

Wes