1.9 Barrage RTR 1/10 Crawler

[hillbillyrc]

Keep us all up to date. Thanks for all your work! Very interesting.

Pete

Here you go.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/general-scale-talk/595660-hillbillys-barrage-upgrade-bible.html

 

[blkbart00]

Look what’s in stock. I just ordered 2. I hope they fit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015...rds=680010&dpPl=1&dpID=31rMDB7-2SL&ref=plSrch

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[hillbillyrc]

They'll fit.

 

[Peterv]

Yep, that what I used on mine. Works great!

 

[mewalsh100]

Brainstain - Thanks for the pics Bud! Definitely helps. So, I got word yesterday that the dude who was sending my Barrage miscalculated postage on the package so it came back to him. He was very apologetic and bummed at himself for the screw up, so it's hard to be too mad. He re-sent priority so I should have it early this coming week.

In the meantime, I've been busy getting my parts together and prepping for the arrival. As I mentioned earlier, I had these Chanquish axles I was saving for a 1.9 Wraith build, but the Barrage won out. I hadn't previously pulled them apart and they were still in the bags in my parts bins. Pulled them out tonight and I gotta say, they're actually much nicer than I thought they'd be."thumbsup" Broke them completely down (there wasn't a lick of loctite to be found), checked shim on the pinions in the front and rear and played with that until I got ideal engagement. Greased them thoroughly and threw them back together with loctite in all the right places. All I could say for the grease that was in them was it was about the consistency of partially dried easy cheese. No bueno. Other than that, they look pretty darn good. Nice machining on the surfaces, good quality to the anodizing, stainless hardware. Not much to complain about with them other than the aforementioned lack of loctite and grease. The throw on the steering also looks real good right out of the box.

 

[mewalsh100]

Well, this was as far as I got tonight. Without the chassis and car, not much else I can do at this point. I do need to cut down some driveshafts. Trying to decide between some Axial units from my old AX10 or some Junfac hardened steel units I had. Also, it looks like I'll have to drill in to the universal end to create some clearance for the pinion gear shaft.

(They bottom out on it before I can get them far enough on to thread the cross pin in and through. I compared them to my Axial HD units and they are about 1/16" longer - so close.)

Or, my other option I s'pose is to just grind some material off the pinion gear shaft. But, that sucks too because I'll have to disassemble them again so I can take it to the grinder.:evil:

Either way, it'll have to wait until tomorrow since the wife is going to bed and will not care for the racket!:lmao:

 

[mewalsh100]

Got the driveshaft issue sorted this morning. Had to grind down a small amount of material at the end of the driveshaft universal on the pinion gear end, and also took a bit off the pinion gear shaft as well. Perfect fitment now. I decided to go with the heavier duty Junfac hardened steel units. I figure they held up on my AX10 on 3S with a 13T Crawlmaster. I doubt this little rig will overtax them.

Unfortunately, until I get the rig now, that's pretty much all the forward progress I can make.

Going back and forth on bodies. Trying to decide if I wanna try make that stock lexan body look like decent. Maybe dovetail it and pinch it? That said, I've never done that with lexan.:shock:

I was also thinking about going with the Proline '66 Chevy C10 and doing a truggy bed. I'll have to get my hands on it and take a look.

 

[hillbillyrc]

What is your wheel base at the moment?

 

[mewalsh100]

What is your wheel base at the moment?

11.72” hillbillyrc

I got my stinger front bumper, HEYOK winch control and winch today. So I was also able to get the winch mounted to the stinger and program my aux channel for 3 position winch control at the Tx."thumbsup"

 

[hillbillyrc]

If you flat fender the front and trim off the rear fenders the barrage body would look cool at that wheelbase. Imho

 

[mewalsh100]

If you flat fender the front and trim off the rear fenders the barrage body would look cool at that wheelbase. Imho

That’s kinda what I was thinking. I’d also love to dovetail and pinch it, but I haven’t seen that turn out real well on lexan before. Whatever I do, It’ll definitely get hacked on.

 

[mewalsh100]

Made some good progress on project "Baraxial" last night. Got the SCX skid mounted, drilled new holes in the frame for mounting points for it and the upper links. Shock towers installed with one bolt for mock up. (The REAR SCX shock mounts work perfectly HILLBILLYRC) Need to drill the second holes to mount those once i'm sure I'm satisfied with their location. Then, it's on to drilling new holes for cross members. I'm not sure I'm going to use the plastic units or not. I may bend up some aluminum ones. Anyway, the suspension is articulating awesome with zero binding. (and the Dravtechs feel great on this thing!). Good diff/pinion angles as well. I should be able to finish up the holes for the shock towers tonight and get those locked down."thumbsup"

 

[mewalsh100]

Made a little more progress. BEC and Rx installed along with ESC using the Barrage mounting plate. I also fabbed up a little battery tray bracket, secured it to one of the cross members, and then secured the battery tray to that. Looks pretty clean."thumbsup"

 

[mewalsh100]

Since the wheelbase is extended, the rear bumper in stock form was interfering with rear wheel articulation. I could clear the wheels if I ran it all the way out, but it looked silly. So, I decided to stub it and I think it looks much better!"thumbsup"

 

[hillbillyrc]

First off very nice.
Now a few questions, any spacers to fit the stock cross member after the skid swap? How far off are the holes for the shock hoops and skid?

Also if you don't mind would like to add a few mods to the bible?

Baraxial is a nice mix of names, but maybe Barroncho? Might be better suited? Lol Idk.

 

[mewalsh100]

First off very nice. Thanks hillbillyrc!

Now a few questions, any spacers to fit the stock cross member after the skid swap? I used 2mm on each side. The frame still pinches a tiny bit at the very front and very back, but short of taking a gauge to it, you wouldn't notice. They definitely serve their purpose for me to continue mocking things up. Ideally, and eventually, I'll fabricate some aluminum ones. But honestly, the rig could be easily run and used as they sit.

How far off are the holes for the shock hoops and skid? They are close. I used one of the existing holes to mount and mock them up. I'll have to drill for the other. They are so close in fact that when I drill for the second mounting bolt, it's going to get in to the other existing hole a fraction. Should not be a problem though because it will encroach on it so little and it will be bolted at the back, plus I'll use washers.

For the skid, I was able to land the plastic keeper pins molded in to the skid on both sides in to existing frame holes. Also got the two front bolts to secure it with existing holes. I'll have to drill for the back bolts. (although, between the plastic pins landing, the two bolts to secure the skid that I have in at the front, and all four lower links tied in to it through the frame, it's not going anywhere. (I did have to drill all 4 holes for the upper links.)

Also if you don't mind would like to add a few mods to the bible?
Is the bible here in the Barrage forum? I'll need to check that out. I just sort of jumped in to this little rig head first!:lmao: But yes, by all means, anything I've done so far that could be helpful to others is fine to publish in the bible!"thumbsup"

Baraxial is a nice mix of names, but maybe Barroncho? Might be better suited? Lol Idk.

Yeah, the name may change. I just thought it was a funny bastardization of the two!:ror:

 

[hillbillyrc]

Yeah, its in here post #504 or third down from top of this page. Also in the general scale section.

 

[mewalsh100]

Got the secondary frame holes located and drilled for the shock hoops. Pretty straight forward. As I mentioned in my earlier post, these secondary holes actually overlapped existing frame holes by a tiny fraction - imagine a figure 8 turned on it's side. I kept the hoops mounted up to mark my secondary holes with a thin sharpie. Since they were snugged down and secure in existing frame holes, it acted as the perfect template to trace for my new holes. One I had everything marked, I had to break the rig completely down again and take the frame over to the drill press.

Since the secondary holes did overlap existing holes slightly, I backed those bolts with a washer which overlaps both holes. (First Picture).

The second picture shows the hoops fully mounted up. You'll notice how close the locater pin on the cross member (to the left of the shock hoop) is to the shock hoop. I did have to grind down the cross member gusset that sat ahead of the locater pin to make room for the washer and nut on the back side, but that was just a quick spin on the grinder and a file to clean it up."thumbsup"

 

[hillbillyrc]

Thanks for the info.
In my set up those will work perfectly in the rear. The front is a different story at least in mock up it is, but I need to mount my trans first to gauge clearance issues with the motor. I did pick up some 1"x1/8" aluminum flat bar to help with clearance. Since it will sit outside of the chassis rails and not on top.

 

[mewalsh100]

Thanks for the info.
In my set up those will work perfectly in the rear. The front is a different story at least in mock up it is, but I need to mount my trans first to gauge clearance issues with the motor. I did pick up some 1"x1/8" aluminum flat bar to help with clearance. Since it will sit outside of the chassis rails and not on top.

They won't work up front for you? Is it a clearance issue with having the front mounted motor?

I was also looking at my options motor wise today. I've got a 30T HH Torquemaster Expert I was going to throw in it. But, I do have a Titan 550 can just laying around as well so I checked it out.

If I use 3/16" aluminum shock stand-off spacers between the trans and the skid, it gives enough clearance for the 550 can to clear the frame rails where they begin to bend up. This little rig would be hilarious with that big ole 550 can stuffed in to her!:lmao: