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2Kind's Gelande II D90

Got the Driver's side window box finished up. It's a mirror image of the other side so I'll save you from that. As much as I liked that drawer system in the floor, it's for another build and I've gone in a different direction.

A while back I picked up some of RC4WD's Scale Diamond Plate Aluminum Sheets (part#Z-S0533). You get two 11"x8.7" sheets for around $16. It's pretty easy stuff to work with. Metal sheers made quick work of it.
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Back at it with the wood. Slightly darker stain for inside.
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A few bit for tiding up lines.
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Not nearly as clean as I'd like. Aside fome starting over and making the boxes properly, It's the best I could do.
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With the bit of play created by swapping shock mounts I thought maybe the rear inner fenders would fit with everything now. By sheer circumstance they do. I did not put the shock bolt through the fender though.
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At best it's going to only be seen moving, from a distance and through half a window. I'm trying to be ok with how messy it looks and move on. With the gain of roughly 1cm of depth, the floor is almost even with the bottom of the door now.
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Still unhappy with the lip it creates though. Only because I see it causing issues in the end game.
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Plan is to make a toolbox/shelving unit to sit on the bench under each window box. Most likely going to be attached by way of magnets. Lots of concealed room under there to play with now.
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I'm looking to get a solid floor plan done soonish so the little things are on hold. For now it's back to the seating situation. Been hesitant but yesterday I picked up a set of Axial Corbeau seats. Mostly because my LHS (Toy City-Great bunch of guys) had them in stock and once in hand.... Much nicer than I had imagined. I see why they're so popular. It'll be hard to not use them now.
 
Wow! I think it looks great and your doing an amazing job

Glad you're liking it so far. Learning a lot every day for sure. Thanks for everything Ribaja!


Hacked up whats left of the interior. Going to keep the front section. Seems easier than making one from scratch.
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Welding it to the piece that the seats and console will be fixed to.
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It all got hit with flat black. Unsure how to handle the dash at this moment.
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Made up some floor panels out of the diamond plate from RC4WD. Each plate comes with a clear plastic film over the front and a blue film over the back allowing you to mark what ever measurements you need to, then peel off the films when done.
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Wrapped both shifters in the same fabric the seats are made of.
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Making progress. Seats should be finished after tonight and ready to be stuck in place. Most likely the interior will all be one piece but not sure yet. I'd like to bolt it to the frame. Prolly useing the two posts on the battery tray. Plan to attach the dash to the interior but that may change. Trying to figure out the door panels next...
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Last edited:
I like the diamond plate touch is it hard to work with

Thanks! Me too.
I was quickly becoming unsatisfied with the look of the interior and had debated scraping it all and starting over. Simply adding the floor boards tied the rear to the front and brought a balance to things I was badly needing.

The diamond plate is very malleable stuff do to how thin the sheets are. No doubt more skilled folk would be able to actually build with it. I did whacked it a few times with a wooden mallet (like I do most things) and it didn't tweak the design in the sheet too much, seems rather tough. Only time will tell but should be good for things like running boards where they will see some abuse from rocks and debris. One of my biggest issues is not having a proper tool to cut clean lines with. I'm also wanting black plate for a couple things. Not sure how well paint will stick to it though. Might try dipping it in Plasti Dip.

For another option, Plastruct makes a diamond plate styrene sheet that I'm trying to get my paws on. This could become any color, a bit easier for me to work with, and cheaper. Not as tough but would be nice to have some on hand.
 
I wasn't sure what else to do for the flooring. I had some of the sticky back felt left so I layed that down underneith the seats.
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Located some Shoe Goo a while back. Figured now was a good time to try it out. Lathered up both seats and the console with a healthy dose and plunked'em down on the felt. Holds real well.
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My attempt at wrapping the steering wheel:
First, I glued only the middle of a thin strip of fabric around the wheel.
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Second, Wrapped thread around the wheel holding the fabric where it wasn't glued.
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Keeping the dash simple. Just a bit of Testors dark brown. I messed up the guage sticker when painting so I'm going to need something different. For now it stays like this.
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Sorted out the doors as well. Decided to glue them right to the body. Now they finally sit perfectly in the window and just right with the interior.
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I was afraid of all the pieces not fitting together but they seem to be playing their parts. Much work left though.
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My best box yet!
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Getting some distance on these lil hinges :) Two magnets (only one seen) glued at a 90 degree angle hold the lid shut and the bigger one you see in the middle holds the whole box to the interior with the help of another magnet under the inner fender.
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They are pretty rugged lil magnets. The box wont be sliding around much if at all.
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For some reason I want to paint it dark green. Most likely though, I'm going to keep it a grey or a dull metal of sorts. Fits real well.
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Won't open much from the inside but I don't plan on climbing in there any time soon.
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Bonus!
Being there's a magnet on the top of the box, I am able to stack something else on it without worries of it going anywhere "thumbsup"
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According to all pictures I have found from 1:1 Land Rovers, your steering wheel is upside down. The two "arms" should be in the lower half of the wheel when centered, I believe. (Probably wrong in the RC4WD manual...)
 
Keep up the details its looking great 2kind but I think you need to get it out and get it dirty before the winter snows start lol.
 
Re: 2Kind's Gelande II D90 (pic heavy)

Great idea for the doors. Mine never line up with the windows.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
According to all pictures I have found from 1:1 Land Rovers, your steering wheel is upside down. The two "arms" should be in the lower half of the wheel when centered, I believe. (Probably wrong in the RC4WD manual...)

Good eye and thanks for checking it out! Debated this both times I've done the dash. Pretty sure you're correct all around. There is a notch in the steering column and a matching piece on the steering wheel mold that line up resulting in what you see. Always thought it a bit strange, but it's a little more secure this way. I'd say most of the time, the wheels are turnned in either direction anywho. Kind of wanting to do a simulated wheel so this will get righted when/if I find a tiny servo and can pull it off.

Keep up the details its looking great 2kind but I think you need to get it out and get it dirty before the winter snows start lol.

Thanks as always man! Couldn't agree more! In fact, got all the new electronics placed and wired up. Took it out for a quick spin around the yard. Gotta say, liking the changes.

Great idea for the doors. Mine never line up with the windows.

Thanks! Glad you like'em. It was one of my biggest issues with the interior ever since day three and one of the first on the "To Do" list. Interestingly it was one of the last pieces to fall into place.
 
Some time ago I got these goodies that I'm just now getting around to.
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I opted for the Holmes Hobbies CrawlMaster Pro 16T (part#HH-110100022, maybe...). With only 10mins of run time on it I can't say a whole lot yet. Between the transmitter and the Hotwire hook up there's still settings that need to be messed with. Off the get go, well worth the shiny bits for it. Much smoother and faster than the 55t I'm used to. Running a 14t pinion on 2s with stock spur gear right now and I've got a 12t and 9t on hand. Gonna play around and we'll see where things land.
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My mess I like to call the electornics. Managed to cram everything under the bonnet. No BEC at the moment and undertaking the change over to deans on all my stuff.
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The Tekin FXR Fwd/Rev Brushed ESC (part#TT1091) really is super tiny, like they all said. Actually smaller than my SR3100 receiver. You need to solder on the transsistor (I think it's called). It calls to make the connection as close as possible. Being it's so big, that makes it hard. I found multiple accounts of folk making an inch or so lead for it. That's what I did as well. Guess we'll see if there comes an issue but for now everything seems to be working fine. There's a lip on the front bumper brace that just so convienleantly fit the FXR on. Sits in front of the 540 motor, leads up, with roughly 2-3mm to spare. Also picked up the Tekin Hotwire 2.0 (part#TT1451). Very basic interface but everything I'll need seems to be there. Tweaked a couple things for now to get up and running.
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My New2rocks stylie plate that sits on the servo makes a return. Still holding up "thumbsup" It's holding the winch controller and the Spektrum SR300WP receiver. Spektrum is all I now aside from RTR gear. I'm a pretty satisfied customer. My DX3R has taken a beating for 9+ years now. Still run the box receiver weekly. Looking to pick up something with more channels soon. Most likely going to try a different brand just not sure which yet.
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Can't speak more highly of the C.I. foams. Growlers were much improved by adding the Lil Novas so I figured I'd try the Deuce's Wild Single Stage Closed Cell Foam for 1.9 Tires (part#CWR-3007) 1.9 Tires 4.25" - 4.19". Fit like they were made for the Tomohawks.
I' a huge fan of the 1.9 Dirt Grabbers but have failed in finding a foam that works them. The DW were too far to wide but with some trimming may work perfectly in them.

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Things are all together and fit nicely. Been having issues with my Proline Scaler shocks leaking. I put the stock 80mm's back on and really like how it sits.
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Out the door we went....
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I like the 1.9 Tomohawks just wish they were about 3-4mm smaller all around and a bit more scale looking.
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Fortunately, I snagged a set of the new Pitbulls last night. Should be here next week some time. From all I've seen, they look to be everything I've been wanting and will finally be the tire for this rig.
 
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Nice 2kind I'm running the mamba micro x with the hh brushless 2200 stubby in the tf2 and a brushed hh torgmaster 30t expert in the scx10-2 but I've been thinking about that 16t you have. If you just need 4 channels you could get the spektrum dx4c for like a hundred.
 
Nice 2kind I'm running the mamba micro x with the hh brushless 2200 stubby in the tf2 and a brushed hh torgmaster 30t expert in the scx10-2 but I've been thinking about that 16t you have. If you just need 4 channels you could get the spektrum dx4c for like a hundred.

I came real close to getting that brushless setup. Kind of wish I had. Maybe next build :)

Leaning hard towards a stick controller and Spektrum does make some decent ones. I'm wanting more than four channels to play with I think. Seven or eight should be enough but all that is in due time.
 
Soldering is something I have struggled greatly with for the last decade prolly. Part of the problem is not doing it enough. Other than a couple motors every now and then there wasn't a need. Also partly do to my equipment. My local Radio Shack is shutting done and selling off all their supplies so I figured now was a good time to pick up a proper soldering station
Everything to date was done with this poor lil guy.
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Well, while out I convinced myself there was plenty of life left in the ole iron and decided to upgrade a bit further.

Picked up Bernzomatic TS8000 Map/Pro torch and few other things to start messing around with. Having absolutely no idea what I'm doing I also grabbed brass and aluminum brazzing rods.
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Some brass and steel rods and odd bits.
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In the past I've attempted bending tubes and rods without success. After a bit of homework and treasure hunting at the local hardware store. In the bin with kitchen drawer runner wheels I found these. I think they are for sliding glass doors and found a few different sizes.
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Not sure what it's called but I made a real crude version of one, I think...
It bends stuff for me. Some folk are using sockets which is brilliant, IMO. Going to fab up something a bit more proper when I get some time. For now though, it works so I thought I'd share. Maybe it will help someone else.
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To start my first project some 3/16 steel (pretty sure) brake line was chossen.
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It comes with a coating of some sort. So the first step is stripping that off. Chucked in the drill....
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With a small piece of sand paper wrapped around the rod, pull the trigger and its gone in seconds. You may want a glove if you're doing a large piece. It gets warm.
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Leaves you with a nice surface to work with.
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After making my measurements, bends, and cuts I had this.
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But I need two.
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A piece of this brass would be a tab for mounting to the body.
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Not sure if it's a weld, braze, solder, or just a mess but this was the first attempt at whatever it is. Went around whacking it on stuff and it held so I continued the process.
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After shaping the tabs with a drinder and taking a metal wire brush attachment for the dremal to it all, this was what I had.
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Here's you can see how far they stick out from the body. Pretty close to where I'd like them. In 1-2mm would be perfect. Happy :)
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After getting blacked they were ready for the rig.
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You've prolly guessed already, and yep, rock guards for the sides. Held in place by magnets in the pictures. Hope to get them properly fixed to the body today but it serves the purpose.
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Consumer Rant:
Completely inspired by CChand's Side Guards for the D90 body. One look and I was sold on the idea but for that price, for what they are, No Sir. I have principle disagreements with that sort of thing :evil: Don't get me wrong. I really like their products. They are of very nice if not top quality and plan to purchase more in the future but there is no need for those kind of prices. It makes it very hard to support a company with moral practices like this. Still respect must be paid where it's due. Not only the idea but the driving factor as well were instigated by them. For that I thank you.


It's small for sure but being my first metal project I'd really like to hear what yall think. Criticism, pointers, things you would have done differently, all coments welcome.

As always, Thanks for looking!
 
Re: 2Kind's Gelande II D90 (pic heavy)

I noticed the steering wheel on my build instuctions say to build it upside down, I sortred mine out.

What pittbulls do you have on the way ? I'm hoping its the small ones.
 
Re: 2Kind's Gelande II D90 (pic heavy)

Great job on the sliders. All of us have had first times for everything in this hobby - it' the only way to learn.

Re CC Hand, the quality of their products is excellent. As far as the pricing is concerned, it's worth remembering that our hobby is very niche, and volumes for products like theirs are very low. If they knew they could sell stuff by the thousands, they could mass produce and bring the price point down. But that's probably not in the cards for their stuff, hence the higher prices. You did exactly what one should do if one doesn't want to buy - make it instead! Well done, sir. "thumbsup"


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Re: 2Kind's Gelande II D90 (pic heavy)

Once again, great work. I've thought about giving brazing a try.
I do agree that once you start making parts on your own it's hard to pay for similar parts. It just takes a little courage to try working with new materials and methods.
Keep the pictures coming. I have to go to Home Depot and pick up brazing tools :) .

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Re: 2Kind's Gelande II D90 (pic heavy)

I noticed the steering wheel on my build instuctions say to build it upside down, I sortred mine out.

What pittbulls do you have on the way ? I'm hoping its the small ones.

Great job on the limb risers. Going to start on mine soon.

Tires are:
The Pit bull A/T Hardcore 1.9 with Foam (Alien) PAP Kompound. Been looking forward to these for some time now.


Great job on the sliders. All of us have had first times for everything in this hobby - it' the only way to learn.

Re CC Hand, the quality of their products is excellent. As far as the pricing is concerned, it's worth remembering that our hobby is very niche, and volumes for products like theirs are very low. If they knew they could sell stuff by the thousands, they could mass produce and bring the price point down. But that's probably not in the cards for their stuff, hence the higher prices. You did exactly what one should do if one doesn't want to buy - make it instead! Well done, sir. "thumbsup"

thanks! First time is always a bit sketchy. After this expirence I'm left pretty confident moving forward. Very satisfied with how they turned out and found it really fun working with the torch. Was nice to get some metal in my hands again.

I will be the first to admit my ignorance towards not only bussiness practices but the company at hand :). If understood correctly what you say makes sense to me. Definitely noted and for what it's worth, not over looked.
One of the outcomes I respect most about this situation is the rarity in wich you see their products being used. That rarity is not set by deman though instead it's set by "cost" plus a specutaled price. Which I get until the speculation crosses a line into vanity for me. It's something we all judge on our own level for sure.

Thanks for your thoughts! always enjoy discussion on ethics and philosophy.

Once again, great work. I've thought about giving brazing a try.
I do agree that once you start making parts on your own it's hard to pay for similar parts. It just takes a little courage to try working with new materials and methods.
Keep the pictures coming. I have to go to Home Depot and pick up brazing tools :) .

Thank you and you should. Found it to be pretty fun. Just be careful. Not to be too cliche but cost aside, expirence gathered along the way is priceless. To now be able to make things I can't find or buy, well...you can't buy that either. I encourage you to give it a shot "thumbsup"
 
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