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3d printer for rc parts
- Thread starter Desmo
- Start date
MasteroFlego
Rock Crawler
Most flexible filaments are fairly hard compared to most rc rubber. You could do it, but don't expect very good grip on hard flat surfaces.Another question. Could you print a track similar to this with flexible filament, and how durable would it be? I want to make a better track for my rc snowmobiles, and also make tracks for trucks like trx4 and scx10.
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Ditchrat
RCC Addict
Another question. Could you print a track similar to this with flexible filament, and how durable would it be? I want to make a better track for my rc snowmobiles, and also make tracks for trucks like trx4 and scx10.
TPU is dam near indestructible. People use it all the time for snow tracks and sand paddles.
Sounds like it’s worth trying then. My alternative plan is to use a bunch of plastic segments pinned together like on heavy machinery, and that would have no grip on hard surfaces. Now I’m wondering would the track be printed on its side, or would it have to be printed flat and then the two ends would have to be joined together?
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
Just go on thingiverse tracks all over. Try some out and tell us.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
If your file is good, and your printer is set properly, you can easily print interlocked things. I’ve printed interlocking rings many times.
Same with hinges, and tracks are connected hinges.
Hang up and Drive
Same with hinges, and tracks are connected hinges.
Hang up and Drive
MasteroFlego
Rock Crawler
Check out Ivan Miranda's series on youtube where he builds a tank, should help you out
Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
raul shabinguez
Quarry Creeper
I'm hoping PETG filament will be strong enough for some structural parts. My first print with it is a battery tray and frame cross brace for an hpi venture.
Anyone else use PETG?
Anyone else use PETG?
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
raul shabinguez
Quarry Creeper
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
I’ve printed 5 of the Wraith skids, only 1 crack on all, after months of beating. The red was cheap, I’ve also done black
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
Im with MikemcE.
I have lots of structural parts printed from PETG at this point and the hold up great.
I'm currently building a rig with a lot of PETG parts, I've only tested it out for a few runs so far. From the feel of the material is just seems tough, though I am printing everything solid. I wasnt sure if I would make some parts out of steel but now that I've seen PETG in person I'm gonna stick with it.
I tried to snap this failed print and could not do it (if it were longer I could have), I was impressed by its strength. That was a carbon fiber PETG though, but the regular PETG feels just as strong.
I tried to snap this failed print and could not do it (if it were longer I could have), I was impressed by its strength. That was a carbon fiber PETG though, but the regular PETG feels just as strong.
BashNSlash
Quarry Creeper
What infill or shell thickness do you guys use for printed bumpers?
I started using PETG based on a recommendation from @JatoTheRipper and this stuff is amazing! I want to print bumpers all day, but want to know a good starting setting for strength/cost/time. Is 100% infill necessary?
I started using PETG based on a recommendation from @JatoTheRipper and this stuff is amazing! I want to print bumpers all day, but want to know a good starting setting for strength/cost/time. Is 100% infill necessary?
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Depends on the file, that said I’ve printed PETG skids, at 50% and they are fine. Bring it up on your slicer and see where it infills , Only reason not to print at 100% is time.
Cura has a function when sliced you can see it do each layer...... set the infill at 10% and watch where it infills, I use a hex infill to see easier
Hang up and Drive
BashNSlash
Quarry Creeper
Right now I'm actually using Polar Cloud because it's dead simple to use and manage from anywhere - but it's not as generous with settings or seeing previews, unfortunately. I may bring the file into Flashprint as I know that has several preview options (haven't set up this machine on Cura yet... don't even know if it works with Cura).
MasteroFlego
Rock Crawler
It's more important to have thick walls than it is to have high infill. Check this out : https://youtu.be/1NzDr1YAb8Q
Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
I'm glad you like it! "thumbsup"
You gave me the old @ symbol and I got an email notification that you mentioned me in a comment. I think that's the first time I've ever seen that. I didn't know this worked on this forum until now. So thanks for informing me of that. I think it's a great feature and I don't believe this forum had that ability before, but I could be wrong!
100% infill isn't always necessary. It depends on the part. The only way to really find out is to do your own testing since designs vary so much.
Here is an interesting chart about infill according to their testing.
Source: https://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/
BashNSlash
Quarry Creeper
You guys are awesome! Thanks for the tips!!
The bumper I'm trying to print now is for my SCX10, which is a crazy light rig compared to my TRX-4. I may not have to make it bullet proof, but I'll be experimenting for sure!
The bumper I'm trying to print now is for my SCX10, which is a crazy light rig compared to my TRX-4. I may not have to make it bullet proof, but I'll be experimenting for sure!
