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3d printer for rc parts
- Thread starter Desmo
- Start date
Thingiverse.
www.thingiverse.com
Be careful there though. By the end of that day you'll have 200 things in your collection that you want to print.
jlwatchman
Rock Stacker
Thingiverse.com
Has anyone mentioned thingiverse?
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
The MP Select Mini 3D Printer lists ABS & PLA as the only filaments it uses (no idea what these mean?). Yet for another $100 the machine accepts a ton of different types.
First off the ABS & PLA, are they strong enough to make truck parts like a bumper?
When this machine prints how smooth is the finished surface? I see a lot of stuff that show very obvious layers. Is the material easy to sand smooth?
The other machine with larger selection of material, what are the advantages of some of those materials? I've seen stories of machines that can use metal or carbon filaments for strong parts. I'm guessing those are high end machines though
First off the ABS & PLA, are they strong enough to make truck parts like a bumper?
When this machine prints how smooth is the finished surface? I see a lot of stuff that show very obvious layers. Is the material easy to sand smooth?
The other machine with larger selection of material, what are the advantages of some of those materials? I've seen stories of machines that can use metal or carbon filaments for strong parts. I'm guessing those are high end machines though
By the time you graduate to Nylon and other more durable materials, you'll already kow how to upgrade the parts you need to print those materials.
Cut tour teeth on PLA then ABS.
Cut tour teeth on PLA then ABS.
ABS sucks IMHO. You need to put your printer in an enclosure or have it in a tightly environmentally controlled area. I prefer PETG over ABS by a long shot. And yes, the Select Mini will print PETG.
jlwatchman
Rock Stacker
Like they said, it can print PETG which is what you want for a bumper. PLA and ABS will both break.
However, you will not be doing that until you first learn on PLA or at least eSun's PLA+ Pro filament.
The layers will still be visible, you could sand it but it'll likely change the color. With ABS, you could use the acetone vapor method to blend the layers. However, ABS is annoying to work with, not as strong as PETG, more difficult to print than PLA, and is toxic.
Santa came earlier! Got my monoprice select mini printer this morning. It is busy printing a cat right now. "thumbsup"
Now I need to find me some 3d modelling software so I can start designing parts.
Now I need to find me some 3d modelling software so I can start designing parts.
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n8welch
Pebble Pounder
Nice job on the grips. Nothing like a 1911 to bring a smile to your face. Been looking into 3D printers also. Thanks for the tips.
A cat or half a cat? :lmao:
Did you provide filament or use what was included with the printer?
Thank you, sir! It's hard to beat a 1911 in terms of fun shooting.
The whole cat! "thumbsup" Got a full reel of black PLA to start experimenting with.
I bought a qidi tech x one 2 over the black friday/cyber Monday deals on amazon. It's enclosed due to being in my garage and it gets cold in there! It prints well i think, at least a lot better than my buddies xyz DaVinci....... I've already printed 90% of the roll of pla it came with, so I have a bunch of orange parts strewn throughout the house. I think I buy good hmmkay
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Welp...... y’all convinced me to pop for one. Had it picked out yesterday, but wanted to sleep on it, glad I did as they dropped the version higher up ,$99 and free shipping. I was going to wait for a better deal, I got a faster better unit . Also 2 kg rolls of PLA and 1kg of PTEG.
Should get real interesting
(Coupon on the intro page)
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=15711&seq=1&format=2
Hang up and Drive
Should get real interesting
(Coupon on the intro page)
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=15711&seq=1&format=2
Hang up and Drive
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I now own three printers. MP mini v2, MP select v2, and CR10s4. Getting ready to put these puppies to hard work.
Who am I kidding, my printers already run more than half of most days. They put in more time than I do, lol!
Who am I kidding, my printers already run more than half of most days. They put in more time than I do, lol!
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Any tips on the select V2 John ?
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
Ive got a Prusa knock off over a year ago and once I got her dialed in its been flawless.
PLA is ok to work with, I found it likes to be slow speed and around 190* on my machine. Too fast it thins out and too hot it just blobs. PETG is the easiest and smoothest for me to work with. Keep my bed around 70-80 to start, run my extruder about 230* and run the cooling fan.
Recommendations:
Always check your bed leveling. Its a Huge pain if you dont and just makes life easier. Check every few jobs then if you find its consistent check once a week or so. Do it with everything up to temperature.
If you're using painters tape on the table dont be afraid to change it regularly. Dont bother trying to lay multiple prints on the same tape for too long. The glue build up will cause havoc with the initial layer.
If you use glass tops always clean them. Simple windex and a soft sponge works great. Hairspray is what the majority of people use for adhesive.
Thingiverse has a ton of mod parts for different printers. Some will need tweaking though once you get yours built but they all can help. Even the little spring cups for the heated bed can help keep the springs level and square.
Keep the drafts away. I printed once with a window open that gave me a cross draft and my corners lifted on the prints. Closed them and the prints were good.
Read about your printer - see what people are doing to mod them. I found mine came with a 15amp power supply. After adding some led light strips and trying to run at high temps I found the ps couldnt handle it. Got a 30amp PS off amazon and lights are bright, bed stays constant hot and runs smoother.
Also an adding on MOSfet for your extruder is a big help. Added one on mine after the power supply and it just seemed to keep material temps better. Took a big load off the control board. Plus reduces the chance of a control board fire for those printers that have open boards.
Measure your filament, dont take the manuf saying 1.75 and think its right. I measure all mine when I change and some can be 1.72 up to 1.76 and it does make a difference in the machine and the print software.
Also learn and read about the (i call it) squish factor lol. Just because you draw a hole in something thats 2'' diameter doesnt mean its 2'' after its done printing. You have to figure in your layer thickness and something else I forgot to get you in the park. When I print a hole for a 3mm screw I actually draw it up at .132 and when it prints I can slide a 3mm (.115) screw through it snug. Thats using a .4mm tip, smaller tip could narrow it down but Im toolazy to try.
Just some of my suggestions. I love being able to print something and see test parts come off quicker and cheaper then trying to mill them. Filament printing can be a pain but once its running smooth its nice just setting it up hitting print and walking away.
PLA is ok to work with, I found it likes to be slow speed and around 190* on my machine. Too fast it thins out and too hot it just blobs. PETG is the easiest and smoothest for me to work with. Keep my bed around 70-80 to start, run my extruder about 230* and run the cooling fan.
Recommendations:
Always check your bed leveling. Its a Huge pain if you dont and just makes life easier. Check every few jobs then if you find its consistent check once a week or so. Do it with everything up to temperature.
If you're using painters tape on the table dont be afraid to change it regularly. Dont bother trying to lay multiple prints on the same tape for too long. The glue build up will cause havoc with the initial layer.
If you use glass tops always clean them. Simple windex and a soft sponge works great. Hairspray is what the majority of people use for adhesive.
Thingiverse has a ton of mod parts for different printers. Some will need tweaking though once you get yours built but they all can help. Even the little spring cups for the heated bed can help keep the springs level and square.
Keep the drafts away. I printed once with a window open that gave me a cross draft and my corners lifted on the prints. Closed them and the prints were good.
Read about your printer - see what people are doing to mod them. I found mine came with a 15amp power supply. After adding some led light strips and trying to run at high temps I found the ps couldnt handle it. Got a 30amp PS off amazon and lights are bright, bed stays constant hot and runs smoother.
Also an adding on MOSfet for your extruder is a big help. Added one on mine after the power supply and it just seemed to keep material temps better. Took a big load off the control board. Plus reduces the chance of a control board fire for those printers that have open boards.
Measure your filament, dont take the manuf saying 1.75 and think its right. I measure all mine when I change and some can be 1.72 up to 1.76 and it does make a difference in the machine and the print software.
Also learn and read about the (i call it) squish factor lol. Just because you draw a hole in something thats 2'' diameter doesnt mean its 2'' after its done printing. You have to figure in your layer thickness and something else I forgot to get you in the park. When I print a hole for a 3mm screw I actually draw it up at .132 and when it prints I can slide a 3mm (.115) screw through it snug. Thats using a .4mm tip, smaller tip could narrow it down but Im toolazy to try.
Just some of my suggestions. I love being able to print something and see test parts come off quicker and cheaper then trying to mill them. Filament printing can be a pain but once its running smooth its nice just setting it up hitting print and walking away.
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mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Excellent tips !
Many concur with all I’ve read. I did like to not assume filament dia, also I’m planning on pteg, after testing in pla.
Hang up and Drive
Many concur with all I’ve read. I did like to not assume filament dia, also I’m planning on pteg, after testing in pla.
Hang up and Drive
got my mp select mini v1 up and running. starting off with a set of 1.9 beadlock wheels for my rc Tonka projects. i'm printing them in PLA because that is what I have on hand and I figure this isn't going to be a high stress use. been reading up more on PETG to see if I want to pick up a roll of that for future prints of parts that may be more stressed.
