• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

3d printer for rc parts

Switched to a hollow 20x20x20 mm cube that is hollow and has a single wall. Faster printing, less filament and I can watch it better. I printed the one on the left using the same settings as I have been using for the XYZ cube except for t it being hollow and single wall. The one one the right was printed using spiral. Night and day difference.
20180617_164536-M.jpg


Watching it print it appears to me that the blob is being created at the end. According to S3D this is fixed with a coasting setting which Slic3r PE doesn't have. I'm going to print the next one with the seam position set to Near instead of Random and see what happens.
 
Last edited:
Finally the hollow cube to print decent. I'll now try the XYZ cube tomorrow and see if I get the same results. What ended up working was to set Seams: Near in Slic3r PE
20180617_214001-M.jpg
 
I'm having an issue with the Inland PETG filament, it has happened several times that it will quit extruding, normally this is at the beginning of a print during the skirt. Thought maybe I was leaving it heated in the hot end to long. Today I loaded the filament, heated the bed to 90c when it reached about 80-85c I preheated the hot end to 240c. When it reached temp I pressed print on Octoprint. When it went to do the skirt it was extruding any filament. Pressed the release lever and pushed it down into the hot end and it finished the skirt and proceeded to print.



Do I have some bad filament or is there something else I should be looking at?
 
I use a command line in gcode that pushes 10mm and then wipes before actually printing.
Is filament dripping as it’s preheating ?


Hang up and Drive
 
Gramps said:
I'm having an issue with the Inland PETG filament, it has happened several times that it will quit extruding, normally this is at the beginning of a print during the skirt. Thought maybe I was leaving it heated in the hot end to long. Today I loaded the filament, heated the bed to 90c when it reached about 80-85c I preheated the hot end to 240c. When it reached temp I pressed print on Octoprint. When it went to do the skirt it was extruding any filament. Pressed the release lever and pushed it down into the hot end and it finished the skirt and proceeded to print.



Do I have some bad filament or is there something else I should be looking at?
Click to expand...
Try extruding manually with the printer control in Octoprint to see if the filament just needs more priming than with PLA.


If not:
1) Also check to see if the extruder is grinding the filament. If you have grinding try increasing the hot end temperature 5 degrees and try again.

2) Check the extruder idler tension. Too loose?

3) Verify that the filament is round and is consistently in spec over a few meters.
 
Re: Wanhao all metal hot end

Gramps said:
Anyone have any experience with this all metal hot end? It's like half the price of a Microswiss.

https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B07CHPW1S9?tag=tv-auto-20
Click to expand...


Went ahead and ordered one, it came today and it looks just like the Micro Swish and the directions on the back of the bag are to micro-swiss.com


20180620_155018-M.jpg

20180620_154932-M.jpg



Comes in a single bag instead of individual bags like a Micro Swiss. Haven't installed it yet so no comment on how it works.
 
So, I read these types of threads because even though I can do the 3D modeling and make a part on a "production" 3D printer, I have absolutely no experience in doing, or fully understanding, the upgrades that people do. What exactly does this upgraded nozzle do and does it require any tweaks to the printers firmware/software?
 
The all metal hotend eliminates heat caused problems as there is no PTFE tube to melt and jam the filament. I’ve also seen much more even heating, and less heat bounce at temp(with proper PID) I use it for printing PETG, at 235/240


Hang up and Drive
 
All metal throats are recomendable almost for every high temperature material.
But if you are going to print only on standard PLA then it is better to use throats with PTFE tube.
PTFE tube in the throat actually avoids jamming of the PLA when it softens going down the throat to the hotend.
 
I've had issues with an all metal throat when using PLA. They would always jam after a few hrs of printing.
 
I have the e3d hotend that I haven't put on yet because I'm going to be using some tpe pretty soon and it won't work well with the Bowden setup.
I decided so we are building on it today.to give my second printer to 2 of my grandsons
 
Anyone print with POM/delrin? Bought a small roll to play with, I may just hook the bed up to an esc and monitor the temps manually for the first few layers, lol.
 
whitrzac said:
Anyone print with POM/delrin? Bought a small roll to play with, I may just hook the bed up to an esc and monitor the temps manually for the first few layers, lol.
Click to expand...



Ive been eyeballing it, interested to hear what you find on it.
 
Initial results were what I expected...

Need to get the bed a lot hotter than the stock board will allow. Survey says between 120-160c. Ordered a mosfet kit and trying to track down a 24v supply for just the bed.
 
I’ll be doing a presentation today at a grade school. First, we will burn some wood. Then, I will design and 3d print something in front of them. Should be fun!
 
Bed adhesion was a big thing I read about with delrin and warping.

What extruder temp?

I read most guys running in the 100* bed temp area and using blue tape with either hairspray or the alcohol rub.

The warping got me to wondering though if a slow cool would be better. Enclose the printer to cut the outside air down and run the fan slower. Warping from my understanding is from cooling, too fast the material shrinks. So if this was cooled slower maybe it wouldnt?

Kind of like PETG fan settings are lower (at least for me) then normal PLA.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
3d Printing ?
Replies
5
Views
831
JatoTheRipper
JatoTheRipper
Fallen
3D Printing Material?
2
Replies
27
Views
2K
lagerratrobe
L
brianw
New Vendor - 3d print services
Replies
5
Views
1K
Gula
Gula
L
UTB18B Driveshafts
Replies
2
Views
249
lagerratrobe
L
G
3D printing
Replies
17
Views
2K
themountain
T
Back
Top