I wonder if those would work on the Select Mini.
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3d printer for rc parts
- Thread starter Desmo
- Start date
I wonder if those would work on the Select Mini.
Anyone have any ideas for me?
Tried a few different times to get the delrin to not peal up without luck.
this is why I just have shapeways print my stuff.
less money and time to throw at materials and a printer.
I just double check my measurments and part design before I let shapeways fire the laser.
k7zpj
RCC Addict
Anyone have any ideas for me?
Tried a few different times to get the delrin to not peal up without luck.
Try printing on 28lb paper or craft paper coated with Elmers glue (Let dry before printing). Delrin likes sticking to fibers.
Modifying the firmware is hard due to the MP select mini not being open source. The only ones I have seen running custom firmware had the controller replaced with a RAMPs board or a mini-Rambo.
Unless the mini uses substantially smaller springs, it should work fine. If not it's simple to size it up or down until it fits, or just redesign one from scratch. That spring cup is so simple that it shouldn't take more than 5 minutes to design in your 3D CAD program of choice.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Why use any program but the slicer? 1 % or 2% scale up should solve fit issues
Hang up and Drive
if the spring is different, my guess is that it would be smaller on the Mini, not larger, and I'm sure you'll have to scale it down more than 1-2%, but yes, if the same design will work, scaling it is the easiest option. What I was attempting to say last time was that if simple scaling won't work for whatever reason, it's still only a 5 minute job to design one from scratch in CAD.
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
It is a shame you have this experience. My printer is literally adjust, slice and print. No mess to fuss and hardly any misprints after the first layer(most are induced by failure to prep)
I do however wish I could design well enough to have your confidence.
Shapeways is probably fine if you're just printing crap from Thingiverse or making very small, simple widgets, but if you're doing any of your own design work, the cost and wait time from Shapeways will bury you. The bulkhead that I did for my Clone Hammers would probably cost $70-80 each, and I went through some 20-odd prints while I was tweaking the design. If I had to spend $80 and wait 2 weeks for each of those, it would take me 9 months and cost me $1600 to develop a part for a $130 car.
it took me literally 5 minutes with some calipers, 30 minutes of cad fiddling, and 1 print for a 15$ dollar to me part from shapeways. fit and finish is perfect. no breakage.
remember that measure twice cut once saying in woodworking? apply that to printing. going through shapeways is a non issue if your design is mathematically correct. I assure you.
ive printed plenty through shapeways. ive never had an issue. size the parts right and you are golden.
remember that measure twice cut once saying in woodworking? apply that to printing. going through shapeways is a non issue if your design is mathematically correct. I assure you.
ive printed plenty through shapeways. ive never had an issue. size the parts right and you are golden.
For simple widgets, sure. When your designs get more complicated, that's just not practical.
This took 20+ prints to get perfect, and would cost around $75 each from Shapeways.
This took 20+ prints to get perfect, and would cost around $75 each from Shapeways.
If you can measure a bulkhead with 6 mounting points on 3 planes that also locates the shock towers, body mounts, adjustable battery tray and custom bell cranks and enough support bracing to keep it strong with enough precision to get it right the first time, then you're one hell of a talent.
Im pretty good with cad. Its not hard. Taking things from paper to computer isnt hard.
Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk
k7zpj
RCC Addict
Happy 4th of July !!!!
(Tricolor print sliced on Cura 3.4, printed on Lulzbot TAZ 5)
(Tricolor print sliced on Cura 3.4, printed on Lulzbot TAZ 5)
You're completely missing my point. Your designs are very simplistic and can be designed and printed with a high degree of confidence. You can't do that with more complex designs no matter how smart you think you are.
Is this a challenge? Measure your chit before you put it in cad.
Must be dense if you cant turn 2d into 3d. Cad is not hard. Period. If you dont get it you dont get it.
Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk
JSterrett
Rock Crawler
Well, apparently most of the rest of us aren't on the same plane of existence as your highness, and have to go to through a few revisions on our part prototypes before we get them exactly the way we want them. This is (I think) what Jim85IROC was talking about.
Taking measurements are one thing, getting the actual physical part installed and realizing you'd like to adjust a few things is how a lot of us "dense" people work things out.
Also, why are you even in here ragging on others if you run everything through shapeways? Last I looked this was 3D Printer thread...
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
On a little lighter side, does it make sense to print this item this way?
The Note in the read.me file says
"Notes:
prints standing on its side so no support needed depending on material on your printer, I use ABS, so I printed with support for the one with places made for furniture tabs to get ite perfekt in size"
To me it makes more sense to print it laying on it's back with the legs up. I did start it that way and it printed strange, You would think that it would lay down the 60x65mm outline then fill it but it didn't it put a rectangle at each end filled them but not in a conventional pattern. Then just` running parallel lines between the 2 end boxes. Wasn't sticking good and I didn't like the way it was going to I cancelled.
Currently printing as per instructions on it's side but I don't see how this is going to happen with no supports.
The Note in the read.me file says
"Notes:
prints standing on its side so no support needed depending on material on your printer, I use ABS, so I printed with support for the one with places made for furniture tabs to get ite perfekt in size"
To me it makes more sense to print it laying on it's back with the legs up. I did start it that way and it printed strange, You would think that it would lay down the 60x65mm outline then fill it but it didn't it put a rectangle at each end filled them but not in a conventional pattern. Then just` running parallel lines between the 2 end boxes. Wasn't sticking good and I didn't like the way it was going to I cancelled.
Currently printing as per instructions on it's side but I don't see how this is going to happen with no supports.
k7zpj
RCC Addict
Was the print posted by someone on the International Space Station?
You can bridge but you can't cantilever with a 3D printer in normal earth gravity.
For Slic3r PE.
In Print settings > Layers and perimeters > Advanced section, do you have External Perimeters First checked ?
Also check that the infill type isn't rectilinear.
You may want to upgrade Slic3r PE to 1.40.1 beta. It seemed a little more stable that 1.40.0
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