hozer
Newbie
WP And JJ, thanks for the good info. I like your optimism! Illl get the shoe horn out again....
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4 PARALLEL front link setups w panhard
- Thread starter hozer
- Start date
Mad_Owl
Newbie
Doc is right! 4 links/top links triangle set up never work with Panhard rod (This set up don't need Panhard any way). Short Panhard rod will created excessive sideways movement between the axle and the body at the ends of the shocks travel. Use long one --no room.
Use 4 links & Panhard ? ---> set the top links parallel with bottom links.
Want to try some thing different ? Try your 4 links set up with WATT's linkage "thumbsup"
Use 4 links & Panhard ? ---> set the top links parallel with bottom links.
Want to try some thing different ? Try your 4 links set up with WATT's linkage "thumbsup"
klampykixx
RCC Addict
Would a watts link bind too tho?
Every link design will bind at some point. That's why mount placement an link length means so much. You have to have the axle sitting at ride height in the right spot within the travel arc so that you never see binding.
Think of link designs where the joint is laid on its side. You will only ever get as much travel as that joint has flex. If it is maxed out in up flex at ride height due to poor mount placement then you'll have issues.
Make sence?
Think of link designs where the joint is laid on its side. You will only ever get as much travel as that joint has flex. If it is maxed out in up flex at ride height due to poor mount placement then you'll have issues.
Make sence?
Bulldog
I wanna be Dave
My biggest concern is that a newb...or a member looking to figure out their setup takes their stock axial and puts the servo on the chassis and adds a panhard and can't figure out why it doesn't work. Before I figured out panhard/3 link setups, I wasted a lot of time and energy thinking that as long as you had both...it would work. Well, it won't unless properly configured.
My best advice to those reading. Trying to keep it simple...Panhard and drag link...same length, same angle, as long and as close to horizontal as possible. 3 Link with the third link on the side of the panhard axle mount. You'll be in business.8)
My best advice to those reading. Trying to keep it simple...Panhard and drag link...same length, same angle, as long and as close to horizontal as possible. 3 Link with the third link on the side of the panhard axle mount. You'll be in business.8)
Gotta read and research. I think to much is spoon feed.
I spent a years worth of time figuring out 1:1 design. Reading books and hours of pages on pirate and other forums.
I think a lot of the guys want stock setups because that's what they see in their driveway. May take more work on a scaler but look at Guido - different doesn't always lead to greatness but sometimes it worth the hassle.
I spent a years worth of time figuring out 1:1 design. Reading books and hours of pages on pirate and other forums.
I think a lot of the guys want stock setups because that's what they see in their driveway. May take more work on a scaler but look at Guido - different doesn't always lead to greatness but sometimes it worth the hassle.
gadge
Quarry Creeper
WOW, seems like 1/2 the responders know their stuff and 1/2 don't.
there isn't too many suspension designs that haven't been tried in the real world.
I remember having to use string and markers on the shop floor to figure out instant center for drag 4 link suspensions. We have computers now !
First I'll have to look for it but I found a free 4 link calculator. just plug in your "scale size" (ie 1/10th scale using say a 4.25" link, plug in 42.5" ) same with weights and all other lengths
If you want to experiment.. take an old chassis or I used plexiglass alluminum standoffs and/or aluminum channels and crap...... use empty shocks. no springs or fluid and have fun !!
there isn't too many suspension designs that haven't been tried in the real world.
I remember having to use string and markers on the shop floor to figure out instant center for drag 4 link suspensions. We have computers now !
First I'll have to look for it but I found a free 4 link calculator. just plug in your "scale size" (ie 1/10th scale using say a 4.25" link, plug in 42.5" ) same with weights and all other lengths
If you want to experiment.. take an old chassis or I used plexiglass alluminum standoffs and/or aluminum channels and crap...... use empty shocks. no springs or fluid and have fun !!
So are you saying 4link with a drag link works? Or only 3 link with a drag link? Just want to make sure what half I fall in!!! LMFAO
gadge
Quarry Creeper
4 link calculator VV
Suspension Calculator
my $.02 on 4 links , this would be so much easier in person so I could talk with my hands, or a piece of paper even...
parallel 4 links or 4 bar suspensions NEED a track locator. that can be acomplished a couple ways. diagnal link, panhard, wishbone, or a watts linkage.
Triangulated 4 links are a whole different story and extremly complicated. first theres 3 different variations ..double triangulated, parallel top, parallel bottom,..... each one works a little differently BUT none of them will wotk with a EXTRA track locator devise.
you could get lucky and find a spot where it wont bind in normal or minimal travel...where roll center is the same height.
nuff said ?????
Suspension Calculator
my $.02 on 4 links , this would be so much easier in person so I could talk with my hands, or a piece of paper even...
parallel 4 links or 4 bar suspensions NEED a track locator. that can be acomplished a couple ways. diagnal link, panhard, wishbone, or a watts linkage.
Triangulated 4 links are a whole different story and extremly complicated. first theres 3 different variations ..double triangulated, parallel top, parallel bottom,..... each one works a little differently BUT none of them will wotk with a EXTRA track locator devise.
you could get lucky and find a spot where it wont bind in normal or minimal travel...where roll center is the same height.
nuff said ?????
klampykixx
RCC Addict
Heres my wraith, and this is the geometry im going to be running. except, in the front ill be removing an upper link, and replacing it with a panhard. it gives me the travel im looking for and the stance im looking for, so as far as im concerned, its ideal for what i want.
front at the bottom>>
front at the bottom>>
Manning
RCC Addict
Yep, this is correct. "thumbsup"
hozer
Newbie
So my daughters want a purple jeep and a blue jeep to go with dads silver jeep. Dad likes tinkering on the new build with them and I imagine we will have fun crawling 3 jeeps at the same time together. So now I have to build 3 new bright JKUs.
Dads: custom frame rails, parallel 4 link and panhard up front, rear triangulated 4 link, ax2 and motor mounted under interior, and wraith sway bars front and rear.
Blue: GCM crosscanyon frame, 3 link panhard front, rear triangulated 4 link, front mount standard scx10 motor/trans
Purple: scx10 frame, triangulated 4 link and axle mounted servo in front, rear triangulated 4 link, standard motor and trans located TBD.
All will be on scx10 axles, 100mm tires, 70-90mm shocks at 50 percent droop. I like the daily driver look. Should be interesting to see how they handle differently.
I need 2 more new bright bodies....
Dads: custom frame rails, parallel 4 link and panhard up front, rear triangulated 4 link, ax2 and motor mounted under interior, and wraith sway bars front and rear.
Blue: GCM crosscanyon frame, 3 link panhard front, rear triangulated 4 link, front mount standard scx10 motor/trans
Purple: scx10 frame, triangulated 4 link and axle mounted servo in front, rear triangulated 4 link, standard motor and trans located TBD.
All will be on scx10 axles, 100mm tires, 70-90mm shocks at 50 percent droop. I like the daily driver look. Should be interesting to see how they handle differently.
I need 2 more new bright bodies....
