i think it all works but the display and i would love to see what im putting the rear wheels so sending it in sounds like the only way to go for now
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4PK Setups, Tips, Tricks and Help
- Thread starter Harley
- Start date
jmontes_21
Quarry Creeper
I tried that tried lowering the values i can't get it to work can it be done
I just did it using the instructions below. Works exactly as you were asking.
You need to turn the mode on.
Ok i read it again can't get it to work here is the pics you asked for
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab321/jmontes_21/2010-12-07195226.jpg
jmontes_21
Quarry Creeper
Thanks guys i got it to work i will post pics in a few of my settings thanks for your patience
Speedracer19
Rock Crawler
I figured this one out.
Thanks for the info on these Transmitters Harley, Whoodie.
Gat714
Quarry Creeper
Harley (or anyone who can help me), with your 4PK MOA setup video (which was great BTW) i can only overdrive my rear by 20 (-120).
example (at full throttle):
channel two (front motor / second bar down) is (for all intensive purposes) at -100
channel three (rear motor / third bar down) is at -120 (which is maxed out)
My question is.. is there a way to somehow tune my radio for that third channel (rear motor) to go past -120 OR better yet be able to dial down channel two (front motor) with a seperate dial such as DT.2?
I'd like the end result to be able to dial down the front motor just as much as your setup allows me to dial down the rear.
There are situations where i'd like my front motor to be spinning at least half as fast as my rear. I have my rear motor set to (like you suggested) DT.1. I'd like to be able to dial my front motor just as much as my rear with DT.2.
Tell me there's a way please! Thank you
example (at full throttle):
channel two (front motor / second bar down) is (for all intensive purposes) at -100
channel three (rear motor / third bar down) is at -120 (which is maxed out)
My question is.. is there a way to somehow tune my radio for that third channel (rear motor) to go past -120 OR better yet be able to dial down channel two (front motor) with a seperate dial such as DT.2?
I'd like the end result to be able to dial down the front motor just as much as your setup allows me to dial down the rear.
There are situations where i'd like my front motor to be spinning at least half as fast as my rear. I have my rear motor set to (like you suggested) DT.1. I'd like to be able to dial my front motor just as much as my rear with DT.2.
Tell me there's a way please! Thank you
With the current setup there is not a way to do that.
You can revert to one of the older setups you can do it. I have never seen a need for this so I don't recommend it. Having to buttons controlling mix ratios is asking for problems on course.
You can revert to one of the older setups you can do it. I have never seen a need for this so I don't recommend it. Having to buttons controlling mix ratios is asking for problems on course.
Gat714
Quarry Creeper
Well for instance, sidehilling (especially turning uphill) is an example where i would want to overdrive the rear. I just recieved my 4PK in the mail today so i havn't had a chance to drive it yet, but my buddy has a 4PK and he is able to dial down both motors. Do you think that (in the situation described above) -120 to the rear would be enough overdrive?
20% is a huge difference when added to the natural clod stall effect. I rarely go below 70 or 80% on the rear motor. Remember, this is the setup that is winning every major event for the most part. If it wasn't the best it wouldn't be the setup of choice. Just food for thought. Don't over complicate your driving experience, you will waste precious seconds on course.
Gat714
Quarry Creeper
Thank you for the quick response "thumbsup"
Gat714
Quarry Creeper
Upgraded wheel grip. Bahaha :mrgreen:
Upgraded wheel grip. Bahaha :mrgreen:
Damn I thought my 1.9 was baller :ror:
Gat714
Quarry Creeper
Haha 2.2 is just plain gangster 8)
Gat714
Quarry Creeper
So i got to thinkin about it, and what i might do to get more overpower control for my rear motor is to go with a 14T pinion in the rear and 13T pinion up front. This might make that -120 to the rear seem more like -130 or -140. Then for normal driving (same power to both motors) i might run the rear motor at like -90 or so. Thoughts?
Clodstall will be worse with a higher tooth pinion in the rear.
I don't get why you want to over power the rear so much. In sidehill situations, overpowering the rear will cause the low front tire to roll over onto it's sidewall, eventually causing the truck to trip over that tire adn rolling over. Underdriving the rear is what you want to do when turning uphill.
I think it is unneeded. There just isn't a reason to need such large a difference. Drive the truck more and you will see.
Gat714
Quarry Creeper
It depends on what kind of rock you are on. If you underpower the rear, sometimes the front has a tendancy to spin causing the front end to slip downhill. Overpowering the rear just enough so that the front still has power to help and still has turning grip, yet not spinning causing the front to slide downhill, is what i'm talking about. I've used this method with good results.
Sure, I know this exact situation, been there many times. It's important to keep the front and rear wheels spinning at nearly the same speeds. What motors are you running? I've seen many 4PK/FXR setups ruined by lower cost motors, or motors that aren't in that great of condition.
Gat714
Quarry Creeper
I was runing HH 45T's, but one of them gave out on me so i sent them into John for rebuild.
I have two sets in the mail. One is a set that i am having John Holmes rebuild for me. They were origionally HH 45T's, but i'm having him rebuild them as 40T's. The other is a new set of Brood 40T's. I'm gonna try them both out to see which performs better and i'll use the other set for backups.
