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73' Bronco-MOA to Creeper conversion

There are a handful of threads with this problem mentioned an a few more that chimed in on it in those threads.. I recall venom replacing them all.. it seems to be during diff time periods of when the rigs where put out that had diff problems... Like I haven had any issues with either out of my rig to this date.. but I put a new axle shaft in out of a newer rig an snapped the axle at the cvd in a week.. so I think its just time periods of when there bad.. which means instead of new free ones from this year.. you may get some off line cheap but from mid last year an just as bad as the one that broke.. just a thought.. maybe contact venom bout it any way an get ur free ones as back ups..
 
They are cast but they do heat treat cast parts too. If they dont they are too brittle unless slow cooled after casting which is essentially a heat treatment. I worked at a place that made cast parts and they would slow cool and depending on its purpose heat treat the cast parts. More the likely like you said heat treating is the issue.
 
So I dropped the front drive line and went two wheeling (turns out the rear pinion is fine) . Rig did well..for about 30 yards and then I blew out the rear drive line, u think I miss clocked it last time I had it apart. Sooooo going with steel units. I hope this the last break for awhile
 
To have issues that bad you had to have gotten ahold of some bad gears or something. I beat mine on a daily basis and I have a chipped tooth on one of the pinions from a mysterious set screw that got in the diff some how. I figured I will run it til it blows. That was 2 months ago. I should probably order a set of gears so i have them..... I keep forgetting!
 
it's all growing pains I think, I am going to drill new holes in the line tonight , 90 degrees off the original ( the pin blew out in the rear yoke) and try running a fastener clear through the and shaft and collar. Got a buddy who has a couple of sets of MPIs that I might pick up just because I can. The rear pinon angle is way too extreme, I guess I neglected to double check that after I reset the wheel base yesterday, so that may have caused some damage too. either way, there was a lot of stress on the unit, the pin holes where all ate out as was one end of the pin. I didn't assembly this thing so I really don't know what it looked like before.
 
Pics pics pics... How do ya know its to extreme? Mine is kicked way up an my drive shaft is level to my tranny.. just a thought.. on my traxxas yokes an shafts, I either had to let the ear on the shaft wear down some or give it a little grind my yoke angle was extreme... No problems.. not with gears anyways.. now, with the MIPS ... Awesome way to go! Be ready for some weaker parts to fail tho.. axle cvd's, hubs if you have plastic wheels, gears, pins.. oh an I just blew a locker to pieces inside my diff! I'm also running comps an dig, which puts huge strain on the front end.. an just replaced all my gears in my tranny.. not saying its cause of the drive shaft but it all went wrong after I put it on. The confidence in the shaft not failing allows you to do more an end up giving more torque to it then I would of before.. ok, my .02 on it..
 
yeah, fails go down hill. I may not run the MIPs right away if I can get this stock shaft back together, but the price is right on them, best not pass them up. he has a few sets for sale, I may grab a second set for a later project.

i kinda got side tracked on pics, got a new rs10 project going and it has been getting all the camera time LOL, i will post some new ones tonight.
 
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Venom is sending me a set of pinions, they are currently out of stock, but that is ok, the replacements i ordered should be here today, not sure how ordering Thursday night and getting Tuesday afternoon is next day service though........

here you can see the pinion angle. excessive pinions angle can cause u-joint failure and yoke wear. a more in line setup will reduce stress on the system and prevent blow outs like this. i didn't get a pic of the yoke, but the front yoke on the rear drive line and the both ends of the front show no signs of wear. most likely this was caused simply by me clicking the shaft wrong and the excessive angle and happened in a short time i was on the trail.

20120703_070735.jpg
 
Okay, yeah this esc is awesome now. Doing wheel stands and front flips when I stop, better back some settings off before I sheep a diff.
 
got out this weekend and really beat on this thing. tore the hood off it, shelled another stock drive line (rear again, I think the angle gets too extreme when it articulates) and the screws holding the electronics box to the chassis tore the threads out of the chassis. third front pinions seems to be fine so far. got nearly 4 hours of total run time out of my turnigy 6000 mah 2s with a over night rest after the first hour. I couldn't be happier with the batteries. I have been wanting to rebuild the hood so i am not to hurt about that, and my center of gravity was better after it came off. have some issues with the firmware on the Brushlesshobbies ESC, but i have dropped the seller an e-mail to address that. pretty damn good run Saturday, got a few pics in the Kansas forum, not as many as i would have liked.
 
Thats crazy that you keep blowing front pinions. I blew one but it was because a set screw got in it somehow. This was right after I bought the axles so the guy I got them from must have accidentally dropped it in there. I was worried with the brushless setup but I have about 4hrs runnin yesterday with some wide open wheel hoppin trying to get up and over a few lips. Maybe you have a bad bearing allowing it to twist causing the mesh to be bad hatching the gears. Especially since its been mainly the front having the issues. Also maybe the housing was made wrong and the pinion is running loose. Maybe try a small spacer behind the pinion if the gear mesh is to loose. Just some ideas. Keep us informed incase any of us have the same issue some day!
 
It looks like ur front axle has negative castor(axle is rolled forward), which would put pressure on said Pinion? Try getting positive castor(get ur servo plate to sit level)an see if that doesn't help ur issue.. better for crawling an climbs...
 
I will take another look at that, something is off, i don;t think it is housing, i have tried shimming the pinion thinking that was the case and found that stock clearance was damn near perfect. one thing i did notice is that I didn't start having issues till I dropped the rear drive line. I think if I could get that to stay on, it would help alot.
 
Yah according to that pic the dif angle is off by quite a bit which could be putting excess stress on the pinion. If you would put a good amount of force on the pinion being the housing is plastic it could flex a bit maybe causing the pinion to become loose and skip causing the teeth to grind off?
 
wheel they are breaking off, but i think you have the right idea. it will be next week before i get back to work on either of my rigs.
 
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