Akumu - bomber build

[v33]

Always wanted one but got a used yeti first (a few months ago) because it was the best bang for the buck. Then the oportunity to trade in my SCX10 v1 came to get a used bomber (rtr version)... it was bashed but came with hopups, what an ugly truck hahaha

Immediately started cleaning the livery and kit, did a thorough check of tranny and axles... no issues. Just the livery and color, getting on my nerves, also the stupid dogbones had to go. Found it had Boom Racing knuckles, c-hubs, steering arm, rear lower links, vanquish sway bar v2, metal drive shafts.

Installed a sensoreless ezrun wp80 esc, 2600kv motor and 20kg servo, all waterproof, and tested it... this truck seems to love to tumble a lot, the stock foams suck.

Anyways, got pumped to get me a new kit version so i can start fresh. A friend is buying my old bomber soon.

Got Vanquish stage 1 kit, new beadlocks (vanquish k.o), used the metal spur gear from the yeti, moved Vanquish sway bars over from old bomber, Vanquish servo mounts which i placed 1mm spacers underneat the mount to lift the servo higher so i can use the servo arms longer throw.

i just got the new PL TSL Super Swampers 2.2 installed (will take pics soon), my Crawler Innovation single stage foams are ordered from RCMart along with an AXE540 sensored combo. The PL stock foams... geez, my fingers hurt trying to mount it, after 4 hours trying, i gave up and used the stock foams temporarily.

Here is a shot of both rigs...

I still need to purchase Vanquish motor mounts, maybe the rear lower links too.

Oh and a used cherokee body to play with, loved what Tim Askins did on his build.

Thanks for viewing!

 

[durok]

Really great photography skills on display!

Congrats on your Bomber(s)!

Sounds like you've got a lot of work done recently...

Please give us your impressions of the HobbyWing AXE system, it is so far not very common here in the USA.

BTW - which kv-rating motor did you pick for the system?

 

[Zka17]

Nice! I specially like the front shocks pushed forward to the axle... it is something I want to experiment with...
One question: that servo horn isn't too close to the tie rod?

 

[v33]

Nice! I specially like the front shocks pushed forward to the axle... it is something I want to experiment with...
One question: that servo horn isn't too close to the tie rod?

the kit version manual states that the shock be installed on that forward hole. i actually have not run the new bomber yet, waiting on my CI foams before testing.

Actually there is clearance on the horn and tierod, it is the ball ends that hits the tie rod. what i did was move the servo up by 1mm (not shown in any of the photos), this removes any binds and scrubing.
forgot to mention i had to lengthen the steering rod so that i can use the bottom servo arm position for more angle... this created binding which wa resolved by moving the servo high.

Really great photography skills on display!

Congrats on your Bomber(s)!

Sounds like you've got a lot of work done recently...

Please give us your impressions of the HobbyWing AXE system, it is so far not very common here in the USA.

BTW - which kv-rating motor did you pick for the system?

Thanks Durok!

I will do a review, but FYI it will be installed on the SCX10 II which now sports the Toyzuki motor mount (traded the scx10 v1 for the order bomber here). I think i will get a sensored 4 pole for this one funds are available.

"thumbsup"

 

[v33]

@Zka17 my bad, the manual had it on its default hole on the lower part of the axle. I was just too tired and did not want to screw it on that hole, used the spare screw and plastic ball area on the manual... i may return it to default position, having shocks angled way too much make the rig climb harder (at least thats what i experienced on my scx10 rigs)

 

[v33]

installed Proline Super Swamper (none xl's) and CWR-3002's on the new rig. spent 3 or 4 hrs just to get one tire fit on the china vanquish copy wheel... totally gave up on the 2nd because it was taking way longer. decided to mount them temporarily on the stock beadlock wheels.

Maybe i need to get the dual stage foams instead or get the swamper XL's... what do you guys suggest?

as for the older rig, not sure what direction i am going with that... either i sell it or the yeti. still thinking about it.

I will do my first test run this sunday... hope all goes well.

thanks for viewing!

 

[ScoJac]

Really cool looking pictures.

 

[Steve g]

I think those tires are a good size. The xls would be better for crawling, but be a little more tippy and the tires fold over more in high speed cornering. All prolines are a pain to mount. Some rims you can get proline specific inner rings for. Or get proline rims. Otherwise you'll be popping beads often. That's my experience anyways. I have the xls on my wraith. Really sharp looking rig.

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[v33]

I think those tires are a good size. The xls would be better for crawling, but be a little more tippy and the tires fold over more in high speed cornering. All prolines are a pain to mount. Some rims you can get proline specific inner rings for. Or get proline rims. Otherwise you'll be popping beads often. That's my experience anyways. I have the xls on my wraith. Really sharp looking rig.

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Thanks for the info! I was also considering the proline rims (wheels), but was opting for the one with the metal ring... then before pulling the trigger i noticed there was no hex wheel hub included and it was marked for yeti, that would mean I'd be using the stock hubs which has a tendency to strip. Anyways, i had a spare set of vanquish hex wheel hubs, just checked earlier and they are compatible, so i guess i will be getting those soon unless i get some funds to order from ebay a set of wheels that i think would be a great match for these tires and they are in black.

Really cool looking pictures.

Thanks!

 

[v33]

Broke my links yesterday before even starting the actual event. User build error... did anyone post something about building the stock links on a bomber? I came from DIY building links back in the mid 2000's and always had issues with my set screws disengaging from the alloy links, so i always built links so that never came loose.

Btw, did I mention yesterday was a U4 event? hahaha The track was not really that hard but it did shake up the rig enough to loosen the ball ends and widen the ball end holes, which made it unusable.

So if anyone reads this, the links set screw is 20mm long, use 10mm for the alloy link and 10mm for the ball ends! :wink:

 

[v33]

rebuilt all the links, bashed heavily in the backyard... happy to report no more link issues

thanks for viewing!

 

[Brake Weight]

Those Swampers look good on there.

 

[Jim85IROC]

I've generally found that the more of the set screw that you can bury into the plastic ball end, the stronger the overall link will be. The plastic ends are the weakest point, and they always break beyond the point where the set screw is. The more set screw you have buried in the plastic, the stronger it is.

But you're still better off with Revo ends.

 

[v33]

@Jim85IROC, i learned the hardway... but it is now setup that way. the set screws actually do only go in about 10mm deep, going beyond that you may puncture the ball ends.

I will need to check the traxxas distro here, but my kit came from a distro very near my place (i get home delivery on a moped ehehe) and he was suggesting the rpm ball ends... unfortunately, he had no stocks now. This should work before those come in as backups.

Thanks!

 

[Jim85IROC]

@Jim85IROC, i learned the hardway... but it is now setup that way. the set screws actually do only go in about 10mm deep, going beyond that you may puncture the ball ends.

I will need to check the traxxas distro here, but my kit came from a distro very near my place (i get home delivery on a moped ehehe) and he was suggesting the rpm ball ends... unfortunately, he had no stocks now. This should work before those come in as backups.

Thanks!

If you drill the hole all the way through to the ball end, you can bury the set screw all the way, which will make the end very strong. Keep in mind that this may require a longer set screw. You can also use it to snug a loose ball end to help get you out of the woods if need be.

 

[v33]

@Jim85IROC, that's sound advice and will keep that in mind when the time comes."thumbsup"

 

[v33]

the stock wheels did not really appeal much to me being plastic and all, i have a Yeti that had an upgraded wheel and installed that on the bomber. The servo also felt weak, being a generic China unknown brand, so I replaced that with an old Sanwa ERS962.

The ride height also bothered me a lot, went to the local distributor of Proline shcoks and wanted to get the Slash Powerstroke replcement dampers... unfortunately they where out of stock at the moment. Got scaler shocks for my SCX10 II insted

Thanks for viewing!

 

[v33]

finally got to upgrade the motor mount, found a stash of vanquish parts for the yeti/bomber in an lhs... will be returning for more

problem is after i did the upgrade, the motor wont spin ... doing some troubleshooting now.


thanks for viewing!

 

[v33]

started playing around with some 1mm carbon fiber sheets to make custom panels for the bomber. i think it's satisfactory, nothing over the top specially since i justed used scissors to cut the sheet and some sanding to make it clean.

now i just need to figure out how to do the hood.

i've replaced the esc (thats the one that broke) with a Hobbywing 120A none waterproof esc. I just hope the coming comp does not have water hazards hehehe

thanks for viewing!

 

[Steve g]

What are you running for an esc/motor? You could waterproof the esc if needed. I waterproofed my 10bl120 fairly easily.

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