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Anybody here know about steel garage doors

kgb424

I wanna be Dave
Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Messages
2,197
Location
Minden
Its been raining hard and I got water coming in my garage

And noticed the corner of the seal is ripped and there is a section missing

I need to replace the bottom seal on my garage door, I went to Home Depot and Lowes and they don't carry that style of seal

My garage door is 16ft Little Rock Windsor Model R260

The bottom seal is a P-Style seal,that has the P rib offsetted too the side

Of the seal, I seen the P-style with the P rib in middle its different than mine

And there is a track on the front side of the door at the bottom that the seal

goes into, and the track is part of the door and there is no screws or bolts to

take the track off, too slide the seal in and then remount the track

does anybody here familiar with the style of seal I got

and know the name of it

Cause I ended up pulling it out, now there is a gap at the bottom of my door

I'm going to have to put sandbags in front of my door cause its going

To rain hard for the next week
 
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I'm in the business over 30 yrs my man. That is specific to the Mfgr, in your case Windsor. Contact your local Windsor dealer or go on line and see if you can get some ordered. You will need to clean the track that it slides into really well and then use WD-40 or White Lithium to help slide the new piece in. An extra set of hands will prolly be necessary also to slide 16' of new seal in.

Worst case scenario you go to your local garage door company, purchase one their aluminum retainers and bottom seals. Just let them know the thickness of your door (most likely 2") Install retainer with self tapping screws every 18", slide in the new seal and your done. Maybe buy an extra piece of seal and put it on a shelf in the likely hood it happens again. Hope this helps somewhat.
 
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Thanks

I looked online and cannot find any seals that match mine, so it must be a Windsor Door only product

I e-mailed the Windsor door company and there local dealer, and I'm going to call a local repair company

And see what they say, cause my garage is freezing, but dry so far, the sand bags are working for now

but then again its raining and there is no wind, if it was winding and raining there would be water in my garage maybe

It was a 3 car garage, now the second 9 ft garage door that is office space, is leaking and damping the carpet in the room,

I need both seals, together there 25 feet long, so a 28 ft roll would work, or the right seals pre-cut
 
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I'm screwed cause Windsor doesn't make that style of seal any more

And the channel is spot welded to the door and it does not come off

So too fix it I got to put the seal under the door

But don't know how to fill in the gap from the slot in front of the door

Its going to look like shit
 
I used a 1/4'' drill bit and my cordless drill and drilled out the spot welds that held the angle iron in place attached to the backside of the doors

And used a hammer and steel chisel and knocked off the angle iron off the door and the eliminated the opening or gap at the bottom of the door

So now I need a 16 ft and 9 ft flat type track and 25 feet of of the seal

I called a couple places locally and going to see if they got it stock and if they will deliver to my house

My GMC truck is a long bed, so the 9 ft piece is ok but not the 16 ft, and if I cut the 16 ft track into 8 ft sections, its a bitch too feed the seal through after its butted together

Its better in one long piece, with no joints, so the seal slides in smoothly in the track
 
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And none of the seals on Ebay match the piece that I'm holding in my hand in the first picture

Windsor discontinued that type or style of seal years ago, and so did the other manufactures, and there is none in stock any where
 
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Yes that's what I need exactly,Flat style track and universal seal

Found it locally for $2.00 a foot for the track and $1.00 a foot for the seal

I need 25 ft of each so for $75 too $80 bucks, I need to see if they will delivery to me

Since they can haul 16 ft and 9 ft track pieces no problem, I don't want to haul it my self if I don't have to

And need some self tapping sheet metal screws to attach the track every 18'' or so
 
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Right on

Its going to cost $80.00 cash for the local garage door company

To deliver me a 16 ft piece of track and a 9 ft piece of track

With the seal already installed and trimmed and a small box of self tappers

So all I got to do is mount the track and its a done deal

Will take some pictures
 
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now the big rollup doors in my shop are leaking

And they are 12 and a half feet wide and are the small panels

I can't find a manufacturer's tag, so I have no idea what brand they are

I called and left a message with the company that built the shop

Hopefully they can tell me information about the doors

When they deliver the track and screws

I will ask him about the shop doors

If I'm lucky. I will only have to replace the seal

Should not be that expensive since I only need another 25' feet of seal
 
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It snowed and that cancelled my delivery of the track

It supposed too snow tomorrow for a little while so

so maybe Friday, if not Monday is supposed to be sunny

unless that changes
 
They guy delivered the track to today

And I used vice grips to hold the track in place while I screwed it off

I was able to slide the track under the roller plates and screw thru the plates and track

And got it done before it warmed up and melted the snow causing run off

2 doors done 2 more shop doors to go

The guy is going to have to order a roll of seal then figure out

How much to charge me by the foot, I need 25 feet of seal

Going to wait until it warms up a little a get a second person

To do the shop doors
 
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Just make sure you don't take the bottom fixture (roller plates) bolts out when you do your other doors. your lift cables hook to those along with all of the spring tension. I work on commercial garage doors, hangar doors, and dock levelers and most people aren't aware that the btm fixtures are so dangerous.
I like to work alone so I use c-clamps or c-clamp vise grips to clamp under and above a roller on each side to prevent movement when I get the door at a comfortable working height and saw horses or more c-clamps attached to the bottom of the door to help support the retainer while I rivet or screw it in place.Gorilla tape has also been used in a pinch to hold a bottom sensor edge in place while I fastened it.
 
i just now noticed that your other shop doors are rolling steel doors, pics didn't show up on my phone. Never mind about the cables and tension you don't have that on a rolling steel door. Your bottom bar is most likely two pieces of angle iron that is sandwiching the bottom slat and the weather strip. It should just be bolted together and come apart easily just don't run the door open while the bottom bar is off or it can go past the stops and cause a big problem .
On that door I would raise it up just higher than a set of saw horses slid under the btm bar and disassemble it then you can rest everything on the saw horses and lower the door down to it for reassembly. I work on these doors frequently so pm me if you have any questions.
 
Hey Chopfather

I showed the Overhead door guy, the shop roll up doors and he suggested, I need 2 people cause you have take out the bolts that hold the angle iron pieces on both sides of the door

And he said the seal pushes up inside the center of the door and you need to drill or punch holes in the seal where the bolts go thru the door and the re-attach the angle iron pieces

He has to order a roll then figure out how much to charge me per foot, I need 25 ft of seal for 12 1/2 foot wide doors
 
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Hey chopfather

Since it been raining for a few days, then snowing for a few, and now just plain cold

Its going to be hard for me to get a second person

Not sure if I can do it by my self

I'm thinking of using C-clamps from the bottom of the door after the seal is in place, and hold the angle iron on both sides of the door

Then drill and attach the bolts that hold the seal and angle iron

But not sure how that works cause the seal comes out from the bottom, so the C-clamps would be in the way of taking the seal out

So How does one person do it them selves if you have to take the angle iron all the way off

Need to think about this one
 
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