Anyone solve THE clod problem?

[motiracer38]

I too had that problem annoy me, so I bumped up to 10 cells on an EVX. The added voltage made the truck a little jumpy, but a 55t lathe motor pretty much doesn't stall with 12 volts going to it.

 

[nktrnl]

The spinning affect of the front wheels is trying to wheelie the truck onto its roof. All you really want to do is drive with the back when this happens.

Then you would want to drive the fronts and not the rears. The rear is going to push you over (backwards) the front will pull you up (if you have the weight/traction).

 

[Crashmaxx]

I don't see it being a problem. The problem is just not enough torque. If you have a similar setup in a shaft truck, the same situation will still stall the motor. If it bothers you that much, then 2 ppl have already given 2 electric solutions to the problem. For me, I think the many disadvantages to a shaft truck far outweigh this one minor problem.

 

[kevinlongisland]

i agree with those that have said it is not really a problem. and ace is right, having the front "search" for the most traction is very beneficial. And i agree with Grizz, there is a way to solve this electronically. But it's really not necessary. Another thing that helps is tire weights in the front.

 

[Fishmaxx]

Hi there
I am building a Gecko2 crawler and I want to run 2 esc’s and 2 batts, one set for each axel, so that I can control the throttles independently.
(Left stick for the rear motor + steering / right stick front motor and+ steering)

I might end up running only 1 but in guna try 2 first as I have downloaded quite a few vids of people crawling Clods and it often looks like they get half way up something, just on the balance point of tipping over backwards and the front wheels are spinning and bouncing about and doing nothing useful. To me this seems to be making it worse. The spinning affect of the front wheels is trying to wheelie the truck onto its roof. All you really want to do is drive with the back when this happens.
I also thought that it might turn tighter if you lock up the rear end with a bit of reverse and then drifted the front across on the power.
My controller can be set to run both esc’s together if I want as well when ever I want, just on a different mode.

I have never tried this so I don’t really know what I’m talking about but I thought I’d try it first.

would this solve the problem? :?: :idea: :?:

What do you think?


I think that some real truck can do this?


I was wondering if, (to save weight) I could run both esc’s of one battery pack?

I know many people have tried the 2 ESC........... See Jasons First post of this thread.

How about 2 ESC on two different channels...........maybe experiment with mixing controls on a 4 -6 channel radio.

 

[Control-Freak]

Then you would want to drive the fronts and not the rears. The rear is going to push you over (backwards) the front will pull you up (if you have the weight/traction).

Good point (nktrnl)
But you still might have more control with independent throttles as you get to say when and how much power each axel gets.

Thats if you ignore the extra weight.

Will 1 batt pack run 2 super roosters? Or will I damage something?

 

[MOTORRAD]

I am currently putting my clod back together with 2 super roosters run of a y-harness. It should be up and running by the end of this weekend. Ill let you know how it works. Mine had a HUGE problem, it would transfer power on the simplest of stuff. Probly need a gear redux.

 

[kevinlongisland]

i've run two esc's off of one battery with no problem. i had 2 esc's hooked up to my 4 channel radio with 4 wheel independent steering at the same time. it was just too much to control. two super roosters linked with a y-cable shouldn't help out your problem. i'm thinking it will do the same thing. gear reductions/adjustable motor mounts with 9 tooth pinions will get rid of most of this or just run lathe motors.

 

[MOTORRAD]

That is what I was thinking also. I just thought it would be fun to take the esc out of my rc10t too see what it does. Smaller pinions are the next step.

 

[Control-Freak]

Let us know how it works out MOTORRAD 8)
I’m still waiting for parts and can’t put mine together yet :evil: :evil:

kevinlongisland is right as far as I can see, the y-cable method is the same as having only 1 ESC but with extra weight and complication.

I’m guna’ have a go at 4 channels; it can’t be any harder than flying a helicopter?
Not that I can do that….lol.

 

[Gimbal]

Hey Grizz, is there a thread around here about your resistor box thingy? Im curious what the hell it is :lol:

IMO, sometimes the front tire spin is a hindrance, other times like has been said it's a benefit. I would be interested in finding out how to CONTROL it...

 

[bigred]

i have solved it to where it is almost like my shafty what you have to do is run your truck in parralel and run the esc wires to the back then the front its close to a shafty but still kinda does it but i think its way better

 

[Jam1sstang]

Actually the Y-cable method is different than running two motors off one ESC, because the power can't be transferred to the motor that is spinning instead of the one not spinning. They will get equal power the whole time. Assuming the 2 battery packs are comparable.

Just run both Lathe motors and 9t (or even 8t) pinions. That eliminated the stalling in my Clods. Now it just strips gears, If I don't let off the throttle when stuck :lol:

 

[MOTORRAD]

It will be 1-2 more days on the duel ESC guys. My wife decided to get sick so insteed of working on the clod I have been making soup. I will work on it tonight. All I have to do now is put the motors in mount the back shocks bolt my servo back on and put tires on it. So close

 

[JasonInAugusta]

http://www.rccrawler.com/postt2584.html

 

[MOTORRAD]

Sorry about taking so long to get back to you guys, had some suspension issues with the truck so I couldnt test it properly. Now that its all sorted it doesnt stall anymore the duel super roosters run excellent with amazing runtime compaired to before. The only problem is WEIGHT! And its fast now. need to gear it down and possibly look into mounting the batteries on the axles. If you guys have any questions let me know Ill do my best to answer them.

 

[27t]

I havent actually seen sthis problem on my truck yet as i havnt really crawled with it yet. i have run it but need a new esc, will have it next week. by the way, for crawling should the motors be in parralel or series, my new esc will be a traxxas EVX

 

[MOTORRAD]

For crawling I would HIGHLY recommend parallel with power run to the back motor first. I had my clod wired in series and the power transfer was terrable, swaped it over to parallel and it got alot better. As far as the EVX goes though are you going to ground out half of it?

 

[Krod_Clod]

solution. Wire in a servo on a free channel. (you have to have more than 2 channels to do this hehehe) Set that servo up to activate a microswitch,

from there do this...

Connect that switch to the front motor (only works if you are running parallel) This will let you turn the front axle off and on (like 1:1 crawlers) and allow you to JUST run the rear motor (doesnt help for climbing, but there is another advantage to this method. i'll explain soon how i use this)

This lets you lock the front axle and pivot around on the front right or left tire (depending on how you want to turn) and spin 180 degrees without going anywhere. I've done this on mine, and it works AWESOME. i dont think anyone else has tried this, although it has been talked about.

This may not solve the problem you guys are talking about, but its a new way to have an advantage over a shaftie



bottom line is...if you want no motor stall...get a shaftie.


-ML

 

[chafey]

cut the comms on the motors, new brushes and stiff springs and the motor stall will be reduced to almost nothing. its amazing what a little routine maintenance can do