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Axial Wraith Sway Bar Kits - Front and Rear

BENDER

2006 2.2 National Champ
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Dec 17, 2004
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Location
Big Bear Lake
AX30781 Wraith™ Sway Bar Kits - Front
ax30781_wraith_sway_bar_kit_front_01.jpg


ax30781_wraith_sway_bar_kit_front_installed.jpg


AX30782 Wraith™ Sway Bar Kit - Rear
ax30782_wraith_sway_bar_kit_rear_01.jpg


ax30782_wraith_sway_bar_kit_rear_installed.jpg


Is your Wraith™ set-up for high speed rock racing, or G6 style events? Then this is the option part you have been waiting for: the Axial Wraith™ Sway Bar Kit. Designed for high speed this system will let you soften up your suspension for jumps, while keeping torque twist and body lean to a minimum during acceleration. A sway bar's main function is to control body roll, yet still allow your shocks to move vertically with the changing terrain. What does all this mean? It means more stability at high speed. A must have upgrade for any would be rock racer.

• CNC machined for precision.
• Black anodized aluminum sway bar arms.
• Each kit includes three different steel sway bars for fine tuning body roll and suspension articulation (soft, medium and firm).
• Laser etched Axial logos.
• All required hardware is included.
• Simple bolt on application.
• Kits available for front and rear separately.

For more info visit Axial's Press Release Page:
Axial Racing - Press : Download : Images / Press Releases
 
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I was only wondering yesterday why there was holes under the bumper. Makes you wonder why they have only just announced this when clearly they have had it all along!
 
I have HR sway bars front and rear and they really do work. I like the turn buckle better on the Axle. Looks like a good solid add on.
 

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Because some things take awhile to have produced when you're developing other cool stuff... Like an EXO or whatever.


I need them to wait with the sway bars to come out. I'm getting overwhelmed with good stufff.
 
Brad do you know if these will be compatible with the VP chassis servo mount/panhard kit? The pic of the HR one looks like it is compatible so I am assuming the Axial one will be?
 
Anyone got any pics of how these are fitted to the axle, pumpkin side?

The long bolt supplied with the kit is too long it's fouling on the gusset on the pumpkin, it doesn't say anything about modifying the axle in the distruction

And anyone which is the soft bar? There's no markings on them!
 
Anyone got any pics of how these are fitted to the axle, pumpkin side?

The long bolt supplied with the kit is too long it's fouling on the gusset on the pumpkin, it doesn't say anything about modifying the axle in the distruction

And anyone which is the soft bar? There's no markings on them!

Isn't there a plain bar & then the other 2 have 2 different sized notches in the centre? Plain is stiffest, biggest notch is softest.

I'm wondering have you turned the link mounts on the axle over like we all did to lower the truck? I know that pulls that upper hole closer to the axle & I wonder if that causes the fouling. Short of nicking a bit off the gusset I'm not sure of another solution.
I had the HotRacing version of the swaybars & they use a threaded ball end to completely remove the nut on the end of that screw.
 
This is orsum! Might have to get me some for the rear, keen to see some reviews!

Well seeing as the original post was from nearly 5 years ago & there was no reviews I wouldn't be expecting anything soon.

Sway bars do pretty much whats expected, resist chassis roll, helpful at speed if your racing, can help crawling with side hilling if your running very soft springs, limits articulation a bit if your into the poser flex shots.
 
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Isn't there a plain bar & then the other 2 have 2 different sized notches in the centre? Plain is stiffest, biggest notch is softest.

I'm wondering have you turned the link mounts on the axle over like we all did to lower the truck? I know that pulls that upper hole closer to the axle & I wonder if that causes the fouling. Short of nicking a bit off the gusset I'm not sure of another solution.
I had the HotRacing version of the swaybars & they use a threaded ball end to completely remove the nut on the end of that screw.

funny thing I just built the front set in better light than when I built the tears last night I came back to ninja edit.

I haven't looked into lowering the truck yet, it's on my "to do" list. my main concern was make it drivable by stopping it falling over every time I turn the anti roll bar will fix that.
Next job was to sort the shocks I don't like the way it bounces seems like 30wt is way too thick for the weight of the truck, I'll have to wait a few days for shock oil so I might flip the mount now, thanks for the heads up!

Edit flipped the mount and the bolt does not foul the pumpkin, it shows in the instructions the mint has been flipped... note to self study the instructions
 
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