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Axle grease experiments... Temps

Im using Bush's grease... Super thick. Use it on Class 1 Race cars & other high end race vehicles...

Something to think about. Doing "Temperature" Testing your going to get inaccurate readings as you progress due to the worm wearing in more.

Just a thought.
 
has ne one tried to tap there gear houseings so they can re lube there gears so they dont have to take them apart everytime? then u could put a plug in the hole so nothing gets in the houseings
 
Molub-Alloy:

After 15mins of hard running, first time with a motor in it. The front diff with 2 shims was 72 deg. and rear diff with the 4 shims was 85 degs. Wanted to see if there was a temp difference between 2 & 4 shim'd diff. A little more run time a nd the 2 shim temps will go down.
 
I drilled a hole for a 4-40 set screw just under the input shaft. I used an .089" drill and just started the tap so the last part of the hole is un-tapped/self-tapping. I stuck a 3/32" long set screw in there and it's tight as a tic. I've got some Gear Jelly in a plastic syringe and I can squirt it in easily. I figure I'll have to crack the cases eventually to remove the excess grease but I can put grease right on the worm spool so I don't need to use much each application. I had everything apart and de-greased when I drilled the hole, I'd be afraid of leaving nylon chips in the axle if you did it while it's assembled.
 
So what do ya think aout putting another hole on the other side to let the excess grease out when you fill it?
 
it sounds liek u dont need to pack the houseing with grease just enough to coat everything. it sounds to be that u have a harder time if its packed with greese putting more strain on the worms and heating up ur motor but this is all from just reading what everyone has been posting.
 
it sounds liek u dont need to pack the houseing with grease just enough to coat everything. it sounds to be that u have a harder time if its packed with greese putting more strain on the worms and heating up ur motor but this is all from just reading what everyone has been posting.

I asked my Dad if he had any suggestions when I go to regrease the axles, he suggested pretty much what you just posted with that Red and Tacky stuff. I guess they used this stuff for ballast tampers that would eat lower cost replacement bearings and could make two sets of bearings last as long as the stockers for considerably less money.
 
I don't know why everyone is so worried about heat, i filled up the diffs with high impact automotive grease { the black stuff } the highest temp i got was 105 and thats running it full speed in high grass. touching the axle and feeling the heat does not worry me a bit, i am going to run them just like that. I did not read that anyone had a diff failure just heat, so why worry and bash the Losi crawler for it ?

Novak Goat System
18 T Pinion
2000 7.4 lipo
DX3R
 
I don't know why everyone is so worried about heat, i filled up the diffs with high impact automotive grease { the black stuff } the highest temp i got was 105 and thats running it full speed in high grass. touching the axle and feeling the heat does not worry me a bit, i am going to run them just like that. I did not read that anyone had a diff failure just heat, so why worry and bash the Losi crawler for it ?

Novak Goat System
18 T Pinion
2000 7.4 lipo
DX3R

i don't think anybody here is bashing the losi. this thread is just for everybody's input on what type of grease is best for this rig. this is just like the motor/esc thread. the more info the better. it will help future losi owners with the right choice of lube and motor/esc choices. i own one and i'm happy i do. aloha
 
Hey Guy's I run an automotive repair shop & the stuff that im using is a thicker royal purple oil or gear lube that oil has polishing agents in it thats what it is designed for friction! It works great keep's the axel cooler also it's a little pricy but a quart will last for a while! just my .02

Royal Purple for the win!!!! This is what I'll switch to if I have a heat problem with my first setup.
My 1:1 vehicles see nothing other than Royal Purple products.
 
Over the weekend I took 1 shim out of the 3 shim area and 1 shim out of the 2 shim area. After that I cleaned everything up and greased the worm gear up with some Amsoil full synthetic general purpose grease. I then put the axle on a cordless drill (full speed) for and 15 - 20 minutes, each axle. The axle was not even the slightest bit warm but I did not have any load on them at all. Will be interesting to see after I mount the tires and drive it. My .02
 
Took the two extra shims out,,,filled the worm and drum with Lucas "Red and Tacky" grease,,,ran them on the drill,,, two battery packs and the diffs were cold to the touch,,,,"thumbsup"
#770
 
Over the weekend I took 1 shim out of the 3 shim area and 1 shim out of the 2 shim area. After that I cleaned everything up and greased the worm gear up with some Amsoil full synthetic general purpose grease. I then put the axle on a cordless drill (full speed) for and 15 - 20 minutes, each axle. The axle was not even the slightest bit warm but I did not have any load on them at all. Will be interesting to see after I mount the tires and drive it. My .02

let us know how that works, i was thinking the same thing on original rebuild but wasnt sure how it would effect the wear.

i took mine back apart last night to check grease and wear and noticed although my marine grease was still solid in there it did break down on the gears. i could see the wear patterns on the spool teeth, it was just the corners seeing wear.

i also looked at the 3 shims and with a magnifying glass could see the pressure marks left on the 2 that hit directly on the worm. i replaced 2 of the shims with one Traxxas teflon shim and a .011 shim to equal the 3 stock ones. felt good but didnt hit the rocks, i could feel warmth in the axles after about 10 minutes. i also switched to Lucas high tac red this time, gonna run around again tonight then tear them down and check wear and grease.
 
Just wondering, is everyone checking to make sure the grease they use is safe on plastics?

I was going to use Moly grease the same stuff I use on my Honda and it's not safe for plastic, than I started thinking how a lot of grease doesn't even come in plastic containers.

Anyone know how bad this stuff is on plastic?
 
Just wondering, is everyone checking to make sure the grease they use is safe on plastics?

I was going to use Moly grease the same stuff I use on my Honda and it's not safe for plastic, than I started thinking how a lot of grease doesn't even come in plastic containers.

Anyone know how bad this stuff is on plastic?
I swetted that also but got over it after I realized a failure means buying a new set of plastic axile housings,,,not like my heli where it could take out the whole ship,,,,
 
i also looked at the 3 shims and with a magnifying glass could see the pressure marks left on the 2 that hit directly on the worm. i replaced 2 of the shims with one Traxxas teflon shim and a .011 shim to equal the 3 stock ones. felt good but didnt hit the rocks, i could feel warmth in the axles after about 10 minutes. i also switched to Lucas high tac red this time, gonna run around again tonight then tear them down and check wear and grease.
are you talking about the three spacers on the WORM ,,,cuz we are pulling the shims off the DRUM gear not the worm,,,they need all three on both side there,,,,:shock:
 
I swetted that also but got over it after I realized a failure means buying a new set of plastic axile housings,,,not like my heli where it could take out the whole ship,,,,

Yea I usually don't worry about it, but this is the first time I've seen a Warning not to use it on plastic, so I got some Mobile 1, if it fails than to hell with it I will use the Moly Grease.
 
I found this info on Molub-Alloy.
Not sure on which one should be used..........

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/subsection.do?categoryId=82958713&contentId=6005585

Molub-Alloy:

After 15mins of hard running, first time with a motor in it. The front diff with 2 shims was 72 deg. and rear diff with the 4 shims was 85 degs. Wanted to see if there was a temp difference between 2 & 4 shim'd diff. A little more run time a nd the 2 shim temps will go down.

Hey 8ngel can you tell us which Molub-Alloy your using?
 
What about a lithium grease? I have some, guess it wouldn't hurt to try. I'm not having axle heat issues but motor heat issues with a goat and 14t pinion.
 
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