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Axles' gears skipping: what to do?

I think I found the solution, I was shimming the pinion gear inside the axle, the 2 axles required a different amount of shims but now the clicking noise is gone, at least when I turn the wheels manually, no more locking as well.
I'll do a real test on the trail and keep this thread updated.

Thanks for your help and input.


Are you shimming the same amount as you did with the last housing? I ask because each housing is likely to be different.

I'd try loosening it up a bit to see how that feels.

Also where are you shimming? the ring gear, pinion or both?

I dont have any experience with the original SCX10 axles but I've done 3 of the 10.2 axle sets. I dont think I've ever had to shim the pinion its always been the ring gear which means very little since its a different design, just an example I suppose.
 
Before I took the truck out, I didn't test it indoors.
- I'm using HD gears (new set that I just intalled), SSD spools, stock Axial housings (new set that I just installed)
- I added 2 shims on the pinion's shafts outside of the housing as suggested (I had the opposite setup before with the shims pushing the pinion gear towards the crown gear)

The clicking noise started instantly so I decided not to run this truck.

Today I removed and inspected the transmission, just to make sure it didn't come from there (I checked before).
With the transmission out, I held the driveshaft (stock plastic WB8) and turned the wheel, it clicked all the way, it's like the gears barely touch!

Could it be the spools? maybe their dimension is wrong.
 
Well dang thats a bummer.

Did you use all new bearings or are they in good shape?

When you were checking the mesh on the ring and pinion was it already greased? I think its easier to feel and see the mesh before grease.
Maybe you need to play around with the mesh and shimming again, seems like so far you've been too tight and too loose now you need to find the happy medium.

I had thought these were the original SCX10 gears but now I see they're the 10.2 gears, what I typically do for those is shim the ring gear to remove most of the excess play side to side (but not all of the play). The play I'm referring to is the side to side play of the spool in the housing (not the gear mesh itself). I'll stick the shims on the spool before putting the bearings back on. If I find it needs for example 3 shims total I'll then play around with different combinations (1 on the left 2 on the right, 2 on the left 1 on the right, all 3 on one side, all 3 on the other side and so on) to get the mesh feeling good.
 
try shimming the spool ssd had quality control issues a while back so it could be the spool

i wouldent worry about driveshaft phasing the wild boar driveshafts are a cv style and dont need phasing but even if you mounted a 1 gram weight to one side of your drive shaft your shafts wont spin fast enuff to create the harmonics needed to damage anything out of ballance tires are much harder on a rig than a out of phase driveshaft and no one ballances there tires on a crawler they simply dont go fast enuff to worry
 
While an out of phase driveshaft may not lead to broken parts with RC it can cause a truck to lurch and skip a beat when going slowly. Its also import to eliminate it as a possible cause when looking into issues like these.
 
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try shimming the spool ssd had quality control issues a while back so it could be the spool

No we didn't, not sure where you got that from. Our spools don't have any issues as far as I know.
 
Thanks for the input, I'm definitely going to order some shims for the spool/ring gear.

I have another SCX10.2 RBK at home, all new, never installed any electronics and all stock (the chassis is for a friend). Earlier today I checked its axles.
At the time I didn't shim anything, (as per instructions). There a lot of play everywhere, and the gears skip when I hold a driveshaft with 2 fingers and I turn the wheel with very moderate strengh.

My rig as almost no play and everything fits pretty tight (I still need to check the lateral movement of the spool as you've suggested).
I'll try to find the proper shimming with all the axles completely out of the rig and maybe go back to a slipper setup (it can't hurt)

Thanks again for all your help "thumbsup"
 
No we didn't, not sure where you got that from. Our spools don't have any issues as far as I know.
you posted that in one of the threads
some one was complaining about geting defective knucklels from you and you sead you had some quality controle issues at the factory

also around that time i had issues with my ssd knuckles i have 2 sets and the bearings from one set wouldent fit the other set i had to grind out my bearing pockets to get the bearings to fit right and like i sead i had 2 sets side by side and the bearings fit fine in one set and not the other i had to grind i tryed 3 differant bearings 2 differant brands and they all fit one set and not the other i tryed several times i even ruined a few bearings trying to tap them in before i broke out the grinder

i just asumed there were other products that were alittle off also and this might be one of those other products that werent just right


and just for sho 2 diferent sets same style bearings fit one set and not the other
zX2PivLl.jpg
 
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Thanks for the input, I'm definitely going to order some shims for the spool/ring gear.

Dang I should know this because I just did one the other week but I think the shims for the pinion are the same size as for the ring gear.
 
While an out of phase driveshaft may not lead to broken parts with RC it can cause a truck to lurch and skip a beat when going slowly. Its also import to eliminate it as a possible cause when looking into issues like these.
i think that has more to do with the drive shaft binding than balance if your at extreme angles i could see it helping but cv style shafts move in a circuler pattern theres nothing to phase u-joints move in a oval patern and you phase them so the vibration cancels itself out but that dosent start hapening till 45mph or so our crawlers wont ever see that kind of speed

the drive shaft is so small things like pins and what not wont afect the ballance any
 
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you posted that in one of the threads
some one was complaining about geting defective knucklels from you and you sead you had some quality controle issues at the factory

also around that time i had issues with my ssd knuckles i have 2 sets and the bearings from one set wouldent fit the other set i had to grind out my bearing pockets to get the bearings to fit right and like i sead i had 2 sets side by side and the bearings fit fine in one set and not the other i had to grind i tryed 3 differant bearings 2 differant brands and they all fit one set and not the other i tryed several times i even ruined a few bearings trying to tap them in before i broke out the grinder

i just asumed there were other products that were alittle off also and this might be one of those other products that werent just right


and just for sho 2 diferent sets same style bearings fit one set and not the other
zX2PivLl.jpg

That really doesn't sound like something I would say on a public forum and if I did it may have been about something that we found and fixed internally. Either way it has nothing to do with the locker in this case.

Regarding knuckles,

Every single knuckle we pack is tested for bearing fit so there is no way they need any grinding. Obviously there can be human error and one slips through untested. That does not automatically mean it's bad also.

We run tight tolerances. Bearings have to go in perfectly straight or they will get stuck. The easiest way to do it insert the outer bearing first. Then install the inner bearing on your axle shaft and insert the shaft/inner bearing into the knuckle. This helps to get the inner bearing to go in straight.

There is absolutely no way our parts are "a little off". We have sold thousands of knuckles for different platforms over the last 5 years. If they had issues everyone would know about it. We didn't build up the reputation we have for fit/quality by making/selling bad parts.
 
That really doesn't sound like something I would say on a public forum and if I did it may have been about something that we found and fixed internally. Either way it has nothing to do with the locker in this case.

Regarding knuckles,

Every single knuckle we pack is tested for bearing fit so there is no way they need any grinding. Obviously there can be human error and one slips through untested. That does not automatically mean it's bad also.

We run tight tolerances. Bearings have to go in perfectly straight or they will get stuck. The easiest way to do it insert the outer bearing first. Then install the inner bearing on your axle shaft and insert the shaft/inner bearing into the knuckle. This helps to get the inner bearing to go in straight.

There is absolutely no way our parts are "a little off". We have sold thousands of knuckles for different platforms over the last 5 years. If they had issues everyone would know about it. We didn't build up the reputation we have for fit/quality by making/selling bad parts.


just sayin 2 sets of the same style of knuckles the same bearings fit one set and not the other not with cheap chineese bearings or fast eddy bearings or come to think about it the dsm bearings dident fit ether so 3 diferent brand of bearings dident fit i destroyed 2 bearings before grinding and i tryed and tryed and tryed they just wouldent fit when i taped them in with a broken axle stub it left a lip both inner and outer i still had to tap the bearings in after grinding the pocket out both sets were bought through amain on ebay and both sead ssd on the packadge

every one of your products ive used was tight i like the snap fit but these one set was off right after you sead you had some quality issues at the factory and you sead you took care of it right away

i buy your products for the enginering and the price no one can get everything right 100% of the time it definitly dident stop me from buying your products since
 
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