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Because I’m jealous of my wife’s rig, scale truck build
- Thread starter Jfrisch1
- Start date
opening doors are a bit crap. my 70 came with them. Had to use gentle persuasion to make them flush with the body. Also filed the edge where are the hinges to not rub. The functional windows are a gamble because they are glued shut after assembly. My kid forced one down and now it it permanent.
Yeah it’s a really cool concept but the functionality isn’t there. My wife’s tf2 body with doors functions just fine with no issues. Of course it has no door cards and the windows are glue in, but still. I’d like them to work but the amount of times I’ll actually open them is very little lol
The one that comes with the body? I’ve given one to my son to build with the other cab I have. I returned the Rc4wd one for this one. It’s almost identical, besides a few different holes already in the bed.
Doing some rear shock tuning/ adjustments.
As you can see, the bed makes the rear just sit all the way down on the tire. Placement of shocks per build manual. Which would be fine if the bed wasn’t so heavy lol
Since I don’t have any springs that fit these shocks and the extras that come with it are softer than these red ones, I’ve moved the springs around. I put the short spring on the top and the longer on bottom. If I crank down the adjusting nut, it seems to give it a stiffer feel. I’d assume because the short spring is almost compressed. Made a bit of a difference but I also moved the shock location to the rear and up slightly.
You can see the passenger (rh driver) is now sitting off the tire while the driver is still sitting on the tire, or close to it.
Now to fix the drivers side and I think it’ll be good for now. With the weight of the bed there is already tire rubs on the frame of the bed since it just sits right there when driving it lol
As you can see, the bed makes the rear just sit all the way down on the tire. Placement of shocks per build manual. Which would be fine if the bed wasn’t so heavy lol
Since I don’t have any springs that fit these shocks and the extras that come with it are softer than these red ones, I’ve moved the springs around. I put the short spring on the top and the longer on bottom. If I crank down the adjusting nut, it seems to give it a stiffer feel. I’d assume because the short spring is almost compressed. Made a bit of a difference but I also moved the shock location to the rear and up slightly.
You can see the passenger (rh driver) is now sitting off the tire while the driver is still sitting on the tire, or close to it.
Now to fix the drivers side and I think it’ll be good for now. With the weight of the bed there is already tire rubs on the frame of the bed since it just sits right there when driving it lol
Just moving the placement of the shock on the frame made a huge difference. Before: shocks are fully compressed with the adjustment nut all the way down. Now: adjustment nut is 3-4 turns from the top and the rear has about 3/8” gap between tire and wheel well, which is what I wanted.
This was before I raised the adjustment nut, because like this on both sides it was sitting way up! Still love the fact that boom racing chassis have pre threaded holes in the frame for adjustments like this. Makes it so much easier than either drilling a new hole or adding a nut to the inside.
This was before I raised the adjustment nut, because like this on both sides it was sitting way up! Still love the fact that boom racing chassis have pre threaded holes in the frame for adjustments like this. Makes it so much easier than either drilling a new hole or adding a nut to the inside.
That bed is from Killerbody too? there's another similar from another brand. I have the one from killerbody and I've found the hinges quite fragile. I broke several before the truck was even finished. Replaced them by small metal hinges
That bed is from Killerbody too? there's another similar from another brand. I have the one from killerbody and I've found the hinges quite fragile. I broke several before the truck was even finished. Replaced them by small metal hinges
This bed is actually from vm. It’s similar to the cchand one. Or the Rc4wd kober bed. It’s all metal.
I thought about doing that bed you have but I knew I’d be annoyed building it. I think I saw you comment somewhere before I started that you had problems with the the hinges.
You've dodged a bullet...
New rubbers came in
Fixes the squashed tire look and now it should drive better without the tires folding over when turning.
Before
After rock monsters!
Proof is in the puddin!
This will be my first time running any kind of silicone rubber insert
Fixes the squashed tire look and now it should drive better without the tires folding over when turning.
Before
After rock monsters!
Proof is in the puddin!
This will be my first time running any kind of silicone rubber insert
awesome pics, rig looks sweet
Thanks man! I’m still trying to get it where I want it but it’s getting there!
3d printed myself a bed box/ battery holder. Comes with a hi lift jack and shovel. Shovel didn’t turn out the greatest but they are glued in, so it doesn’t matter.
Glad this one holds a full size battery. My wife’s tool box does not.
Glad this one holds a full size battery. My wife’s tool box does not.
Found a file for the hood latches. 2 hours later we have a functioning hood.
Really easy to install, I just didn’t have 1mm screws only 1.4. So the holes just had to be reamed out slightly to get the screws to fit. Takes maybe 30 mins to build/ install.
Now, I have access to my on/off switch without it being down on the frame rail. It was supposed to go in the interior but since my doors don’t open, this is the best place right now for it.
Since the hood does open now, I’ll probably find a better spot for it, that way the heat from the motor won’t let the double sided tape come off.
Really easy to install, I just didn’t have 1mm screws only 1.4. So the holes just had to be reamed out slightly to get the screws to fit. Takes maybe 30 mins to build/ install.
Now, I have access to my on/off switch without it being down on the frame rail. It was supposed to go in the interior but since my doors don’t open, this is the best place right now for it.
Since the hood does open now, I’ll probably find a better spot for it, that way the heat from the motor won’t let the double sided tape come off.
How's the quality of this kit compared to RC4WD? This kit looks awesome.
I think you 3D print. There are screw gauge files all over the place. Just an FYI.
It’s been a little while since I’ve built a tf2 chassis but I’d say the boom racing is better Rc4wd is just so stiff and the chassis seems so plain. Brx was a simple build and looks good. If we are talking an out of the box kit with no upgrades, boom racing for sure.
I never looked at boom racing chassis’s before until my crawling buddy started his. He was impressed so I had to check it out. I’m definitely on board with boom racing now
Vm sliders, muscle winch mounting kit, killerbody light kit and controller came in today.
Vm sliders look good and fit good. The only thing they could have done differently is the diamond plate tread area. 6 of the smallest Phillips heads screws and nuts hold it in place. Why can’t they just attach the little things, my fingers/ tools are too big to even try. I got three screws in on each side and stopped. They bolt right to the frame on the top side, into the already threaded holes.
I did have to trim the passenger side one as the muscle winch has to sit down on the frame rail to mount. The screws for that go under the slider on the side of the frame rail. They are all metal so the cut out shouldn’t affect it much. At least I’m hoping lol
I do love that the winch has a free spool option. That is such an overlooked detail on rc winches. The Traxxas one I have, used it all the time because of the free spool.
The killerbody mud flaps have been out of stock, atleast for the Toyota ones I want. I found a set on Amazon for $10 and trimmed them to fit. They’ll work for now.
Muscle winch rounting is simple. Hard part is getting the line to go through the provided tube. The last 1” or so goes in but the rest just bunches up. I put some quick drying ca glue on about 4” of the line and smoothed it out. Once dry, it slid right through the tube. And my mistake with kinking the tube right at the winch, pliers shouldn’t have been used. It all functions fine though. There’s roughly 4-5’ of winch line that comes out of the winch, after cutting the 4”’off that I glued to keep stiff.
Now, tomorrow I’ll cut the interior to make it fit over the winch and itll be good to go.
Also, have to get an xt60 connector with the jst plug for the winch. Thought I I had one but it’s gone. Planning on taking this thing with me to Florida next week and get some time on the sand with it.
Vm sliders look good and fit good. The only thing they could have done differently is the diamond plate tread area. 6 of the smallest Phillips heads screws and nuts hold it in place. Why can’t they just attach the little things, my fingers/ tools are too big to even try. I got three screws in on each side and stopped. They bolt right to the frame on the top side, into the already threaded holes.
I did have to trim the passenger side one as the muscle winch has to sit down on the frame rail to mount. The screws for that go under the slider on the side of the frame rail. They are all metal so the cut out shouldn’t affect it much. At least I’m hoping lol
I do love that the winch has a free spool option. That is such an overlooked detail on rc winches. The Traxxas one I have, used it all the time because of the free spool.
The killerbody mud flaps have been out of stock, atleast for the Toyota ones I want. I found a set on Amazon for $10 and trimmed them to fit. They’ll work for now.
Muscle winch rounting is simple. Hard part is getting the line to go through the provided tube. The last 1” or so goes in but the rest just bunches up. I put some quick drying ca glue on about 4” of the line and smoothed it out. Once dry, it slid right through the tube. And my mistake with kinking the tube right at the winch, pliers shouldn’t have been used. It all functions fine though. There’s roughly 4-5’ of winch line that comes out of the winch, after cutting the 4”’off that I glued to keep stiff.
Now, tomorrow I’ll cut the interior to make it fit over the winch and itll be good to go.
Also, have to get an xt60 connector with the jst plug for the winch. Thought I I had one but it’s gone. Planning on taking this thing with me to Florida next week and get some time on the sand with it.
