Brazing Video

[mrpink]

sorry for the bs

Mrpink.

i dont have the adjustable tip. it is low flame. should be the problem i thnk.lol

I dont see how you guys use these torches. Go to Lowes, get a self igniting head... you will be 100X's happier. My tip is not adjustable, but it is very high flow.

 

[clodstall]

I dont see how you guys use these torches. Go to Lowes, get a self igniting head... you will be 100X's happier. My tip is not adjustable, but it is very high flow.

ok thanks. yeah this one has a small flame. takes forever to heat up parts.

 

[4u2nv]

What Harris Flux are you guys using? I'm ordering some Safety Silv 45 and am not sure what flux to get. Is the 45 alright to use? it's a little cheaper than the 56.

 

[mrpink]

What Harris Flux are you guys using? I'm ordering some Safety Silv 45 and am not sure what flux to get. Is the 45 alright to use? it's a little cheaper than the 56.

Thats what I use."thumbsup""thumbsup"

 

[4u2nv]

Thanks mrpink just ordered up some 45 and Flux... Now I need to get me some brake line and give it a whirl. I'll be sure to post up my first try at this.

 

[run2jeepn]

Good reading guys. very nice tips. I guess I'll give it a try soon.

 

[5150bronco]

Thanks to everybody for all the helpful information....

Double J, nice video very helpful.

One question not answered.....?

>>>> What is a cheaper solder than safety silv...., just to practice with?

Thanks, "thumbsup"

 

[Dragon Soaring]

I know from reading bicycle frame building sites that brass or bronz brazing wire is cheaper but the heat to melt it is so high that mapp wont get you there.

 

[5150bronco]

okay...thanks for the info....

I was mainly wondering what is cheap for practicing on steel brake line....no bronze or alum yet.....

any suggestions?

 

[Double J]

okay...thanks for the info....

I was mainly wondering what is cheap for practicing on steel brake line....no bronze or alum yet.....

any suggestions?

In all honesty the safety silv is the best to practice with because that is what you'd want to use. And it works really well..

And the price per troy ounce is around $20-$25 each and you can easily do some practice and then a complete tuber with it and still have some left over.

Let me ask you this.. Would you practice hockey to play basketball?

I don't think so. You should practice with what you'd be using."thumbsup"

 

[ecoli]

Maybe this is more building than brazing related, but when making a "loop" based frame (e.g. Super Goat), where do you make the joint on the main loop?

 

[shortbusjeep]

what about brazing plates for link mounts or skid plates? any trick i have had alot of trouble with that. thanks.

 

[Double J]

Maybe this is more building than brazing related, but when making a "loop" based frame (e.g. Super Goat), where do you make the joint on the main loop?

Not really sure what your asking, but what I think you are refering to is joining the two ends at one meeting point (as if I made a circle?).
I Personally try to meet them at the rear of the rig because I feel it gets less abuse than the front and is usually the larger area on a tuber making the meeting points easier to line up.

what about brazing plates for link mounts or skid plates? any trick i have had alot of trouble with that. thanks.

brazing a thicker material like link mounts or skids, I'll try to heat the thicker plate first and move the heat over to where it meets the tubing. or putting more of the flame on the thicker area.
But once you start one end you can easily move the heat letting the silv flow along the edges. leaves a nice seam.

 

[shortbusjeep]

thanks alot ill try that

 

[5150bronco]

In all honesty the safety silv is the best to practice with because that is what you'd want to use. And it works really well..

And the price per troy ounce is around $20-$25 each and you can easily do some practice and then a complete tuber with it and still have some left over.

Let me ask you this.. Would you practice hockey to play basketball?

I don't think so. You should practice with what you'd be using."thumbsup"

Double,

I do agree with your logic. I just wanted to see if I could not spend as much money cause silv is kinda expensive and this will be the first time building a tuber and brazing.

thanks for your help,

anymore suggestions please let me know."thumbsup"

 

[ecoli]

Not really sure what your asking, but what I think you are refering to is joining the two ends at one meeting point (as if I made a circle?).
I Personally try to meet them at the rear of the rig because I feel it gets less abuse than the front and is usually the larger area on a tuber making the meeting points easier to line up.

Yep, that's exactly what I was referring to. Me not so good with words, me like picshurs ;-)

Thanks for the reply. Makes sense to put the "weak" spot where it isn't exposed.

 

[ecoli]

A few more questions, mostly safety related that I couldn't find answers to in my searches:

1. Removing the galvanized coating. I know you can use sandpaper or muriatic acid (or just don't breathe when brazing!). I hit the brakeline with a sander. Yeah, looks shiny, but I don't know if it's taken the galvanized coating off. Is it enough to just sand it to a shine, or is the coating thicker than that?

2. Is it safe to/do people braze indoors? I'm talking inside my house in the basement over the concrete foundation (using a raised metal slab, not brazing directly on the concrete). I don't have a garage or workshop, and it's too dang cold outside.

3. Storing MAPP gas. I plan on getting the self-igniting head. I also have a four year old in the house who, while we store everything well out of reach, is very capable of getting into almost all cupboards, etc. I might just lock it away, but I'm curious as to how easily the MAPP gas is ignited with the self-igniting head (i.e., does it have some built in safety features to prevent curious fingers from accidentally igniting it)? Is it better to store partially used gas without the head on it?

4. Anything special in the way of clothing used while brazing? Obviously no loose shirts, etc., but it doesn't look like you have to go to the extent that you do with welding.

Thanks again. I'm not paranoid, just trying to be as safe as possible.

 

[Double J]

A few more questions, mostly safety related that I couldn't find answers to in my searches:

1. Removing the galvanized coating. I know you can use sandpaper or muriatic acid (or just don't breathe when brazing!). I hit the brakeline with a sander. Yeah, looks shiny, but I don't know if it's taken the galvanized coating off. Is it enough to just sand it to a shine, or is the coating thicker than that?

Although I'm not 100% on this. The galvanized coating is thin and dull looking once it's shinny it should be off. I sand (w/ dremel or as in vid) to a shine and have had no problems.

2. Is it safe to/do people braze indoors? I'm talking inside my house in the basement over the concrete foundation (using a raised metal slab, not brazing directly on the concrete). I don't have a garage or workshop, and it's too dang cold outside.

I braze inside my garage w/ closed windows and door so typically the same sinario your working in. So I'd call it safe. Just try not to braze around any paper or flamable liquids.

3. Storing MAPP gas. I plan on getting the self-igniting head. I also have a four year old in the house who, while we store everything well out of reach, is very capable of getting into almost all cupboards, etc. I might just lock it away, but I'm curious as to how easily the MAPP gas is ignited with the self-igniting head (i.e., does it have some built in safety features to prevent curious fingers from accidentally igniting it)? Is it better to store partially used gas without the head on it?

I'm also in the same situation. But since I do most everything in the garage the little ones won't go in there while I'm not and have been instructed NOT TO TOUCH anything. But we all know how that goes, I've shown my kids how to use most of my stuff and have given a full safety lecture. (if you touch this the house will blow up and we will all die..LOL)

Best bet is to store it out of reach with the bottle and tourche seperated and in different spots if you are worried they'd get into it.

Also the self igniting torch does lock, but not in a safe way. It will lock the flame in the ON position.

4. Anything special in the way of clothing used while brazing? Obviously no loose shirts, etc., but it doesn't look like you have to go to the extent that you do with welding.

I generally wear the same clothing that I've worn all day. Jeans (slacks on occasion LOL) and T shirt. I do wear a dust mask because of sanding the joints. about 45% of the time I'll wear leather gloves when I know I'll be touching some hot spots more often. but you kinda get use to hold hot tube.

Thanks again. I'm not paranoid, just trying to be as safe as possible.

I'd also suggest using safety glasses, I've on more than one occasion have had a piece of metal or metal dust get into my eyes and it's not fun. Although I don't always put them on I defenatly should do so. I'm generally in such a hurry I simply forget to put em on untill I get something in my eyes, then it's flush and put em on.

So lets do a little recap on safety:
1. wear safety goggles
2. wear dust mask
3. gloves to protect your hand so you don't get burned (thick leather gloves are fine)
4. Keep away from children.
5. Always use your best jugement, if you think it's not safe it probably isn't.

 

[TwistedCreations]

1. No matter what, you should ALWAYS grind/sand down to bare metal on your joints before you braze.

2. I have brazed in an 8' x 10' enclosed shed before. You will be fine in the basement. As long as you don't mind the wife griping about the smell though :lol:

3. There is no child lock on them.. turn on gas and pop, its on... I use the old fashion basic head anyway. That way you need an igniter to fire it up. As for storing it without the head on, that really depends. I have smelled/heard some bottles leaking once you take the heads off. As long as you do not smell it coming out, it will be fine to store though.

4. Nope, no need to worry about clothing. As you said, it is nothing like welding. Although, keep some leather gloves near by if you plan to grab the piece afterwards. also water works to cool things down quicker"thumbsup"

 

[Racer4Life]

I did it. Worked out okay. Thanks a bunch for all the help with this thread.

Started with this.

Did a little grinding and what not...then took the torch to it! Painted it too.

Here is what it looks like under the truck.