twisted crawler
Pebble Pounder
I finally got my clod. I was a little disappointed as the guy said it was a shelf queen. He said he had bought it, put together, as it was in zip lock bags when he got, never ran it just had it on his shelf for years, I don't think he was to familiar with rcs. But i guess it wasn't to bad. The esc battery leads where butchered but it was clean, rewired the leads looks new now and works great.
Every nut and bolt was loose, replaced everyone of them with hex bolts and lock nuts.
The frame was ok replaced the esc tray, the links where ok expt. for a few that i fixed. cavaliers no problems expt for two hole that the shocks mounted to no big problem just added a nut to the back side.
The axles full ball bearings but needs 2 tubes and one gear case has cracks. He had 15 tooth pinions which has everything so tight, have to fix that cannot run like that unless i wanna burn up th esc, motors and battery, getting 13s or adjustable motor mounts.
the body was new but needed trimming could not find my curved cutters so i scared it up a little cutting it. Dumb on my part :?.
it has stock clod tires and rims the white ones , they have been painted silver, the tires good shape, also had brand new chrome rims, probably buy some tires Monday for them.
Its been a long time séance Ive had a clod. I do have a few tricks and things to share about the clodzilla kits.
I would like to get some alum tubes and knuckles, or was considering, bergs, bully's, rapters, ect. or just upgrading the stockers.. I just want a nice good all around truck. so i might be on the look out for stuff for the axles. maybe i could work out something if anyone has what I'm looking for I have PP and things I would consider trading.
here it is after I've been working on it.
have it down to where it just starts hitting the cavalier link at this point.
this is a fix for the shock mount for this kit. it is not real pretty, you can go ether further in or out depending on where you need it. the mounts them selfs are about 1/4 in. difference, witch really plays havoc when using the IV kit. I opted for the links to be to the outer, so they do not hit the frame. also it takes like the pic above to hit the tire unless the wheels are turned.as you can see the cavalier link and the upper suspension link are inline.
Now both sides are the same witch really helps in tuning and how the suspension works.
another veiw
next some simple ways to aline the chassis, as anyone who has had this kit knows that the holes are around 4mm and the screws are 3mm. all you need are some servo brass inserts 4mm with 3mm hole and small shock balls 3mm hole with collard ends.the collard ends are 4mm in width.
here is a 4mm hole that someone had made for the antenna.
Now the same hole with insert, also you can see where i used for aliening the side plate and chassis.
I made a new tray for mine as the old one was junk. Also I mounted it on the bottom side of my chassis. so I used the servo insert to aline the side plate and chassis, the inserted my 3 mm bolt and lock nut. The brass end will compress easily. the i mounted the plate with another locknut.
Ok the shock ball ends that are collard on both ends. they make great standoffs and aline the chassis parts to. one side works for the link ball ends letting them move with no binding the other side will inert threw the plate and prationally into the other aliening the 2. I only used this on the upper links and shock mounts as these two areas have either the bottom plate mounting to the side plate or bottom plate mounting to the sway bar plate. My bottom plate holes where a little walard out so this really helped here. everything is nice and aliened.
also used the ball end here.It spaced it out perfect to match the link above.
Every nut and bolt was loose, replaced everyone of them with hex bolts and lock nuts.
The frame was ok replaced the esc tray, the links where ok expt. for a few that i fixed. cavaliers no problems expt for two hole that the shocks mounted to no big problem just added a nut to the back side.
The axles full ball bearings but needs 2 tubes and one gear case has cracks. He had 15 tooth pinions which has everything so tight, have to fix that cannot run like that unless i wanna burn up th esc, motors and battery, getting 13s or adjustable motor mounts.
the body was new but needed trimming could not find my curved cutters so i scared it up a little cutting it. Dumb on my part :?.
it has stock clod tires and rims the white ones , they have been painted silver, the tires good shape, also had brand new chrome rims, probably buy some tires Monday for them.
Its been a long time séance Ive had a clod. I do have a few tricks and things to share about the clodzilla kits.
I would like to get some alum tubes and knuckles, or was considering, bergs, bully's, rapters, ect. or just upgrading the stockers.. I just want a nice good all around truck. so i might be on the look out for stuff for the axles. maybe i could work out something if anyone has what I'm looking for I have PP and things I would consider trading.
here it is after I've been working on it.
have it down to where it just starts hitting the cavalier link at this point.
this is a fix for the shock mount for this kit. it is not real pretty, you can go ether further in or out depending on where you need it. the mounts them selfs are about 1/4 in. difference, witch really plays havoc when using the IV kit. I opted for the links to be to the outer, so they do not hit the frame. also it takes like the pic above to hit the tire unless the wheels are turned.as you can see the cavalier link and the upper suspension link are inline.
Now both sides are the same witch really helps in tuning and how the suspension works.
another veiw
next some simple ways to aline the chassis, as anyone who has had this kit knows that the holes are around 4mm and the screws are 3mm. all you need are some servo brass inserts 4mm with 3mm hole and small shock balls 3mm hole with collard ends.the collard ends are 4mm in width.
here is a 4mm hole that someone had made for the antenna.
Now the same hole with insert, also you can see where i used for aliening the side plate and chassis.
I made a new tray for mine as the old one was junk. Also I mounted it on the bottom side of my chassis. so I used the servo insert to aline the side plate and chassis, the inserted my 3 mm bolt and lock nut. The brass end will compress easily. the i mounted the plate with another locknut.
Ok the shock ball ends that are collard on both ends. they make great standoffs and aline the chassis parts to. one side works for the link ball ends letting them move with no binding the other side will inert threw the plate and prationally into the other aliening the 2. I only used this on the upper links and shock mounts as these two areas have either the bottom plate mounting to the side plate or bottom plate mounting to the sway bar plate. My bottom plate holes where a little walard out so this really helped here. everything is nice and aliened.
also used the ball end here.It spaced it out perfect to match the link above.
