soze
I wanna be Dave
Ditto. Is the 4100kv SkyRC motor you're using the 8.5T modified one? I have one that I didn't know what to do with.
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Ditto. Is the 4100kv SkyRC motor you're using the 8.5T modified one? I have one that I didn't know what to do with.
Barndog Racing
RCC Addict
Nice video and review!
TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
Give yourself some credit, this was a really good review. "thumbsup"
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
Small update:
I opened-up the front diff with the help of the HPI bevel gear set 103400. It took a bit of machining/dremeling to get the Gmade axles fit the slots in the ‘cheek gears’ the slot is jùst a bit too short. I had to enlarg/lengthen the slot in the gears jùst a tad to make them fit the Gmade axles. (Dang! HPI’s sintered gears are hard!)
I did it because I’m more like a basher than a hard-core crawler. In due time the Gom will get a more potent motor. Probably my k4 8.5t. And high speeds with a front locker makes the whole affair a bit overly tippy. Still needs a rear sway-bar too.
With the HPI gears, and some small rubber rings - left over from the axial exo diffs- around the outgoing shaft opening, and thin tamiya diff washers under the ‘cheek gears’ ( can’t remember the official english name) , the diff is tight enough to be filled with thick diff-oil without leaking it allover the place.
All in all the Gom still climbs admirably, but is a tad more usable at speed. I just like my crawlers/trailers that way.
I opened-up the front diff with the help of the HPI bevel gear set 103400. It took a bit of machining/dremeling to get the Gmade axles fit the slots in the ‘cheek gears’ the slot is jùst a bit too short. I had to enlarg/lengthen the slot in the gears jùst a tad to make them fit the Gmade axles. (Dang! HPI’s sintered gears are hard!)
I did it because I’m more like a basher than a hard-core crawler. In due time the Gom will get a more potent motor. Probably my k4 8.5t. And high speeds with a front locker makes the whole affair a bit overly tippy. Still needs a rear sway-bar too.
With the HPI gears, and some small rubber rings - left over from the axial exo diffs- around the outgoing shaft opening, and thin tamiya diff washers under the ‘cheek gears’ ( can’t remember the official english name) , the diff is tight enough to be filled with thick diff-oil without leaking it allover the place.
All in all the Gom still climbs admirably, but is a tad more usable at speed. I just like my crawlers/trailers that way.
I've also started this process. When I tried the first time in a hurry I just put the locker back in.
But I was pleased to see it would all work with a bit of shaft grinding.
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
I was a bit hesitant to grind the shaft down, so I chose to lengthen the slot in the bevel gears ( I suddenly remember how they’re called.. :ror: ) with a diamond tipped grinding bit I once sourced from my dentist. ( yes, really.. 
)
By the by, watched Your video. Great, short, and to the point. Some other reviewers could learn something there! "thumbsup"
) By the by, watched Your video. Great, short, and to the point. Some other reviewers could learn something there! "thumbsup"
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Great video.... Harley need to watch........ good comments on the screws, both the hex heads and the sloppy bagging and finding long screws
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
Anyone else have this kind of wheel wobble in the front?
Everything is tight, nothing seems off.
I'm hoping cva's And possibly aluminum knuckles helps, but id like to fix it before spending $90.
Looks like the bearing and the driveshaft cup is moving.
Everything is tight, nothing seems off.
I'm hoping cva's And possibly aluminum knuckles helps, but id like to fix it before spending $90.
Looks like the bearing and the driveshaft cup is moving.
soze
I wanna be Dave
Yeah regarding the screws and hardware... I've resorted to classifying them and separating them out into their separate sections in my build parts box before I start every step.
soze
I wanna be Dave
Anyone else have this kind of wheel wobble in the front?
Everything is tight, nothing seems off.
I'm hoping cva's And possibly aluminum knuckles helps, but id like to fix it before spending $90.
Looks like the bearing and the driveshaft cup is moving.
I'm not that far into my build yet, but my axles (minus the hex and wheels) don't seem to have that play. Could it be the hex --> wheel fit?
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
Anyone else have this kind of wheel wobble in the front?
Everything is tight, nothing seems off.
I'm hoping cva's And possibly aluminum knuckles helps, but id like to fix it before spending $90.
Looks like the bearing and the driveshaft cup is moving.
Yup!
Low quality Ball bearing with not very good tolerances. The inner ring of the bb can tilt for a bit.
Yeah, that sounds right from what I've seen. Thanks for the input.
I'm going to order new bearings.
Im definitely getting cva's when available. And I'm on the fence about aluminum knuckles. $50 is pretty steep.
If new bearing and cva's fix it, I'll spend the money elsewhere.
Gmade's option parts are priced kind of weird. $30 for a large axle truss... then $30 or tiny bearing caps. $50 for knuckles.
I guess it makes some kind of sense.. some seem like great deals, others are vanquish prices.
Last edited:
Teng
RCC Addict
It could be the play in the Knuckle Bushings due to the wear out
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
On my R1 the biggest issue was bearings, fast Eddie solved that issue quickly . Get a full set and you will eliminate all sorts of issues.
Be wary of junfac CVDs , I blew 4 out quickly, when I went back to stock no issues. I did go 4WS to make it turn.
Hang up and Drive
Be wary of junfac CVDs , I blew 4 out quickly, when I went back to stock no issues. I did go 4WS to make it turn.
Hang up and Drive
soze
I wanna be Dave
I think he bought the brass knuckle bushings like I did. Or am I wrong?
Teng
RCC Addict
I do not have GOM, A year ago I bough some brass knuckles from supershafty for my heavy Wraith ( around 10lbs ) and I noticed the brass knuckles wear out quickly.
In my limited experience, I think brass is not a good material in the knuckles? Maybe stainless steel better?
Your right. Brass bushings.
They will definitely wear slower than the plastic.
Jay-em nailed it on the head, bearings.
I'm going to order a new set tonight.
Barndog Racing
RCC Addict
I had a crap load of Fast Eddy bearings laying around so I got to use them every where except the transmission.
I need to build up a store of bearings. I have unlimited hardware, links and other random parts.. but no bearings.
Was the difference very noticeable?
If one was being selective, which bearings would you change first besides the knuckles?
