Coming soon .....GMADE GOM-GR1 Rock Buggy

[Dustinf]

Usually it's enough to just get one of those clip-on heat sinks for brushed 540-size motors. If You can afford it, with a fan. There's enough space under the bonnet. Or, if it's too high, just stick it through the bonnet. Might even look cool.

I use a cheapie from Carson/Dickie/Tamiya. Works fine ,and fits like a glove. The fact that the motor is at the front, open to the elements also helps tremendously.

That's exactly what I used.

This thing was like $12 on eBay and it comes with a fan. I really just used it because it looks cool.

And with the esc fan blowing like crazy right next to the motor, you can feel a strong draft from under the hood.

But this thing stays ultra cool regardless. 40°C is the hottest I have seen it, If the on boars esc/motor temp readout is correct.

 

[Jay-Em]

If it looks thàt cool, You’d almost wìsh it were too high, so it would stick through the bonnet. It gives a real scale-feel to the front of the car.

 

[TooOldForThis]

If it looks thàt cool, You’d almost wìsh it were too high, so it would stick through the bonnet. It gives a real scale-feel to the front of the car.

All it would take is some spacers. Then get a small air cleaner on top or, *gasp* a blower intake. IT COULD HAVE A FUNCTIONAL BLOWER INTAKE. :shock: SOMEONE NEEDS TO MAKE THIS HAPPEN.

If I didn't already have a different plan, I'd be all over that idea.

 

[TheLetterJ]

Here ya go, just drill holes through the butterflies: Search results for “blower” | RPM R/C Products

 

[Dustinf]

If it looks thàt cool, You’d almost wìsh it were too high, so it would stick through the bonnet. It gives a real scale-feel to the front of the car.

I've actually seriously considered doing that.

Not so much a full on blower, but a low profile air intake with filter.

Eventually when I have the time I might make a new hood panel and add this.

 

[Jay-Em]

MOR65915 - Moroso Low Profile Racing Air Cleaner, 14" Diameter with 3" Filter Gray/Black Fiber Design

Like this You mean? Hmmm... 2 large plastic washers 3.5 to 4cm diameter.. some open foam and a strip of metal mesh... I got a -somewhat simpler- heatsink with fan somewhere. I even got the faux carbon sticker material.. :idea: *shuffles off to man-cave, softly, unintelligibly mumbling*

Have to go to work now (it’s 06:00 overhere, shift begins in half an hour) but I’m going to fiddle with this tonight.

 

[TooOldForThis]

I got to test out the new motor last night (13 turns brushed, with a 17 tooth pinion). As anyone might expect, it made a big difference. Very slow speed crawling has been negatively effected (of course) but first gear still has a LOT of punch. Second gear rips right along, little drifts here and there, it's quite a transformation. While it started out feeling very much like a crawler, it feels like a basher now, which is what I was aiming for. There looks to be plenty of room for an 18 tooth pinion so I'll be trying that soon.

NOW ABOUT THAT MOTOR MOUNT. I've heard others finding things to be negative about on the GOM and I mostly haven't agreed, however, I really dislike the motor mount. Making fine gear mesh adjustments is tedious and frustrating. I suppose the motor mount design options were limited by the chassis layout, but I still think they could have done better :x

 

[soze]

I made the same mistake that Twinset from Tamiyaclub made. I overtightened the panhard rod to the panhard mount on the axle and cracked the eye of the countersunk screw. Blah..... It stays mounted by the other hole, but I'll probably order a replacement sprue that has that piece and get the upgraded metal part when that's available.

 

[Dustinf]

I wish there were a way to have sway bars up front.

But the only way I can see this happening is by mounting the servo on the axle and going to 4 link.

There are definitely spots for a home made sway bar mount, but it would only get tangled up in all the other links.

 

[Jay-Em]

Hmmm.. I never felt the need for a front anti-sway bar. But I can imagine that at really high speeds, it would help. My Grave digger behaves pretty well with just a rear sway-bar, despite its big 4-pole long-can 3540kv.

By the by, I’m currently fitting a Tamiya Bruiser driver to the GOM interior. The guy is a bit bigger than the usual action figures, and looks really good inside. It only needs some cutting in the rear to slide easily into the seat.

 

[mikemcE]

Agree on sway bar. My lifted Wraith is a crawler, but for giggles, I will up the pinion and use a rear only sway bar on the RR track shoulders , and it made a huge difference, and I can remove the ends quickly to crawl


Hang up and Drive

 

[Dustinf]

Hmmm.. I never felt the need for a front anti-sway bar. But I can imagine that at really high speeds, it would help. My Grave digger behaves pretty well with just a rear sway-bar, despite its big 4-pole long-can 3540kv.

By the by, I’m currently fitting a Tamiya Bruiser driver to the GOM interior. The guy is a bit bigger than than the usual action figures, and looks really good inside. It only needs some cutting in the rear to slide easily into the seat.

None of my other rigs have them.. but this one, with all the weight above the front axle and up high, could really benefit from one.

But that front heavy nature and body roll is part of the charm with this truck. I don't want to turn it into a bomber.

 

[Dustinf]

Well, I've stripped the servo horn.

That's officially the first thing to go wrong.

Luckily it's very minor and I have an aluminum one to replace it already.

Someone else mentioned hmthis happening too.

I've also put my new tires on. And immediately popped them loose from the rims. So.. new wheels will be a must.

 

[Jay-Em]

Heh. I took one look at the plastic servo horn, tried it for a bit. Immediately stripped it while just rotating it by hand on an unconnected servo.

I actually didn’t plan on using it anyways. Plastic horn without servo saver? That’s never gonna work.

 

[Dustinf]

Heh. I took one look at the plastic servo horn, tried it for a bit. Immediately stripped it while just rotating it by hand on an unconnected servo.

I actually didn’t plan on using it anyways. Plastic horn without servo saver? That’s never gonna work.

Yeah haha... I knew it was a stinker.

I'm amazed it lasted this long!

 

[soze]

I upgraded the servo horn right away. I haven't run mine yet though... nor completed it. :mrgreen:

 

[MELKORsXJ]

In an attempt to lower my GOM... I moved the front shock to rear most hole; and moved rear shock lower to the rear trailing arm mount.
The trailing arms are about level now & has a good stance. With rear shock collars about halfway down, fronts at the top it has next to no body roll, & haven't noticed any torque twist yet in the rocks...

I'll probably run a few batteries through it this way, but so far I like it...

 

[Dustinf]

The world of rc....

Ordered 6 new tires... because I wanted a spare and a more capable rig.

Well.. stock foams are awful... 6 new foams.

New tires on stock beadlocks suck and pop loose easily.... 5 new aluminum wheels.

All because I wanted one spare tire to mount...

 

[Dustinf]

And I'm still waiting patiently for the cva's to be in stock at rpp.

I don't want to pay $18 in shipping direct from junfac.

I can't get these cvas in fast enough. The pin on my left doggone keeps coming uncentered and is causing issues.

 

[soze]

And I'm still waiting patiently for the cva's to be in stock at rpp.

I don't want to pay $18 in shipping direct from junfac.

I can't get these cvas in fast enough. The pin on my left doggone keeps coming uncentered and is causing issues.

I couldn't wait. I was waiting for Rpphobby to get them in as well.

I ended getting the cva, hi lo shift fork, drive shafts, panhard axle mount.

I'll wait for Rpphobby to get the knuckles and hubs.

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