How fast will junfac stuff get to the us?
I've never ordered direct.
For $18 in shipping.. I would hope its pretty quick.
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How fast will junfac stuff get to the us?
I've never ordered direct.
For $18 in shipping.. I would hope its pretty quick.
soze
I wanna be Dave
I've never ordered from them either, but it's using EMS. EMS is Express mail... supposed to be 3-5 days I think (after they clear customs).
TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
Tada! Cooling fans where there are supposed to be cooling fans.
Excuse the messy wires, I haven't begun tidying yet.
Excuse the messy wires, I haven't begun tidying yet.
Tada! Cooling fans where there are supposed to be cooling fans.
Excuse the messy wires, I haven't begun tidying yet.
Looks great!
soze
I wanna be Dave
Tada! Cooling fans where there are supposed to be cooling fans.
Excuse the messy wires, I haven't begun tidying yet.
Nice work!
Jeepiac
Rock Crawler
Y'all are on here just having a ball with this thing, and having nothing but fun and I'm setting here wondering why the hell my GOM hates me so damn much.
Went out with a couple buddies yesterday, decided to go 3s because it works for everyone else and 10 minutes into it second gear exploded. Transmission is so full of shit it's locking up and grinding from all the floaters bouncing around in it. It was fun as hell while it lasted. Stupid thing will crawl lines that are normally pretty difficult without even trying. I checked shifting operation beforehand and all was good. Without tearing into it, I'm guessing a shift fork might have flexed and or broke because from my experience, Gmade gears are tough as hell. Oh well. Guess when all the upgrades are available from RPP I'll dump a bucket of money into it and see what happens then. At least my super cheapo China drive shafts are holding good :ror:
Went out with a couple buddies yesterday, decided to go 3s because it works for everyone else and 10 minutes into it second gear exploded. Transmission is so full of shit it's locking up and grinding from all the floaters bouncing around in it. It was fun as hell while it lasted. Stupid thing will crawl lines that are normally pretty difficult without even trying. I checked shifting operation beforehand and all was good. Without tearing into it, I'm guessing a shift fork might have flexed and or broke because from my experience, Gmade gears are tough as hell. Oh well. Guess when all the upgrades are available from RPP I'll dump a bucket of money into it and see what happens then. At least my super cheapo China drive shafts are holding good :ror:
Nice job there. "thumbsup". Maybe completing the look by fabricating a radiator fin would be "cooler" :mrgreen:
TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
Thanks for the compliments guys. I'd really like to see someone do a motor fan intake through the hood/bonnet like what was being discussed earlier. So many possibilities!
Sorry to hear that man. If it makes you feel any better.. I'm having some issues too.
For me it's the wheels. The new tires I got keep popping off these beadlocks. Which sucks when your out running it.
New wheels should be here next week.
Also, one of my front dog bone pin keeps uncentering.. causing issues. Luckily cva's will fix this.
Besides that everything is good on 2s. I finally got it to shift reliably.
I wish the front axle had a bit more clearance. It bottoms out on the servo mount/panhard/truss and makes the front end bounce up when landing a jump.
I may see about grinding down the axle truss...
soze
I wanna be Dave
In regards to shifting... this is from TWINSET on TamiyaClub and what he did to resolve it.
Also beefed up the dig spring - it wasn't always reverting back to 4WD although it was disengaging dig.
Not sure if it was just that all the sliding parts were new and needed wearing in or not, but it was last night's project to get it sorted
I didn't take pics as it took several attempts to get it right and it was a bit of a patience test
What solved it was a sandwich of 3mm washer, o-ring, washer, o-ring and another washer between the spring and the shift fork.
The washers stop the o-rings stretching around the spring or the fork moulding - I tried without washers first and the spring was forced thru the o-ring stack
The blue and yellow bits in the pic represent the washer/o-ring stack - solved the problem
I didn't want to drill/ream/modify anything irreversibly in case the assembly just needed to bed-in
This way, if the assembly does loosen up the mod can stay in place
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
Those plastic shift forks. Ehh.. yeahhhh.. the only moment in the build I went “What the bleeding Frack??”
Aaand.. “nòthing but fun” isn’t exactly right. I had my “Why does Gmade hate me” moment yesterday. Shifter servo gave up the ghost. 52 screws later (yes, I counted them) I could finally remove the bloody thing without having to scarily bend all sorts of parts out of the way. (Added to that, my TwinHammers decided this was the right moment to álso burn through its shifter servo... grrmbll.. whàt a day...)
My word! Something tells me Gmade never considered the fact that parts break, and designed the whole affair to go together, to never be taken apart again. Even the EXO didn’t elicit this much cursing from me. :shock: :lmao: never thought a car could make me consider rage-quitting.
It’s a tour de force in engineering, a techheads dream design, complex, scale accurate, carefully thought out, impressive, with one tiiiiiny, tiiiiiiny flaw : Hell. On. Earth. For. Wrenching. A bit like all modern cars. Ever tried replacing a front lightbulb on a new Audi? Or VWGolf, for that matter?
Do I hate it? Nope. But it’s seriously on its way to be a shelf queen. Too scared of running it hard, in fear of breaking something in the deep bowels of the thing....
@Soze : the fit of the mechanical innards of the shifter mechanism is eerily precise. One grain of sand can gum-up the workings. It gets better with use (and ceramic grease, not to forget) but it takes some time, and weak servos, like the 3kg I used at first, will have burnt by that time. I think even the shifter mechanism needs at least a 10kg servo.
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soze
I wanna be Dave
I've only bench tested, but I'm running a Savox 254MG (7kg). I'm still waiting for a bunch of parts before I continue my build. I just thought it was interesting that TWINSET felt the need for the o-rings/spacers. I'll see how mine is when I get it up and running.
TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
So the only thing standing between me and 52 screws of regret is the questionable internals of a $12 Tower Hobbies branded shift servo?! Gah! 
I'm not worried though. I only use it for switching between high/low gear and that action has always been smooth on mine. This looming risk of maintenance hell is going to be the price we pay for a scale layout and tight packaging. I spend more time tinkering than driving so it's a trade-off I welcome, but yeah, this isn't the best kit for anyone wanting to dish out worry-free abuse.
I'm not worried though. I only use it for switching between high/low gear and that action has always been smooth on mine. This looming risk of maintenance hell is going to be the price we pay for a scale layout and tight packaging. I spend more time tinkering than driving so it's a trade-off I welcome, but yeah, this isn't the best kit for anyone wanting to dish out worry-free abuse.
I love the way you describe it. Bravo.
Mines on the shelf until I get new wheels... so I have no progress to speak of.
I think I've found the perfect servo horn for this rig though.
If the servo is too thick at the splined mount, the panhard bashes off of it. And this provides a bit of beef to help align the steering/panhard. At least on mine.
And it looks pretty scale.
MELKORsXJ
Newbie
I think I've found the perfect servo horn for this rig though.
If the servo is too thick at the splined mount, the panhard bashes off of it. And this provides a bit of beef to help align the steering/panhard. At least on mine.
And it looks pretty scale.
I think that would look good as well... do you have a link?
https://www.m.ebay.com/itm/Team-Los...uminum-22-4-/122207809022?txnId=1867725060002
That's for a 23t. But you should be able to find it in whatever tooth count you want.
Should help get some more clearance above the front axle.
TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
I seem to remember someone talking about shimming the front lower control arms where they attach to the chassis to eliminate their side-to-side slop. I don't have any actual shims but I was able to fit a leftover washer from the kit into each side. It was a tight fit but I recommend it to everyone because that slop was translating into a surprising amount of torsional movement at the front axle. Nice improvement.
That was me.
And yes... it is a must. It's amazing what a .2 or .4mm shim in that spot will do.
I went back and shimmed everywhere that would let me and it does feel better overall.
soze
I wanna be Dave
Parts.... almost... here.... I'm hopefully going to get the panels finished painting up today as the weather should be pretty warm outside.
Bought a Mamba X, but it's going to take a few days getting here. Wonder if I should just stick a HW 1080 and a Traxxas Titan 21T in there for now.
I have not really looked at it closely yet, but since everyone is mentioning the disassembly needed to work on the truck.... you guys think there might be a possible way to modify at least the cage to be easily taken off?
I guess I'll have to put my cage together to see what it'll be like.
Bought a Mamba X, but it's going to take a few days getting here. Wonder if I should just stick a HW 1080 and a Traxxas Titan 21T in there for now.
I have not really looked at it closely yet, but since everyone is mentioning the disassembly needed to work on the truck.... you guys think there might be a possible way to modify at least the cage to be easily taken off?
I guess I'll have to put my cage together to see what it'll be like.
