complete noob to lcc

[muddinscx]

the stock xr10 wheels wont work the will rub the knuckles, but narrowed stock wheels will work but will also narrow the f/r of the losi. so to use them well, you need wheel wideners/axle extensions

I was thinking to run xr10 wheels (a lot chearper then vp's) cause I can get them for $30 and run VP wheel weights.

 

[DiggyStyle]

No you actually get opra :lmao:

:lmao::lmao::lmao: Best comeback I've heard all week! "thumbsup"

 

[redrokin00XJ]

I was thinking to run xr10 wheels (a lot chearper then vp's) cause I can get them for $30 and run VP wheel weights.

I'm running XR10 wheels and if you plan on runnin them you will need to narrow them down to an inch wide. If not they won't clear the steering and it won't be able to turn.

 

[muddinscx]

I'm running XR10 wheels and if you plan on runnin them you will need to narrow them down to an inch wide. If not they won't clear the steering and it won't be able to turn.

So I would have to purty much cut the back off to get less of a differance in the offsets? Is that what you mean?

 

[muddinscx]

I was looking at this brushless setup.

Team Powers XPS Sport Speed Control(70A) + 13.5 Sensor Brushless motor

I know team powers motors kit a$$ in the on road cars but has anyone used or seen this setup in use?

Is drag brake needed since it has the worms?

 

[redrokin00XJ]

I was looking at this brushless setup.

Team Powers XPS Sport Speed Control(70A) + 13.5 Sensor Brushless motor

I know team powers motors kit a$$ in the on road cars but has anyone used or seen this setup in use?

Is drag brake needed since it has the worms?

No drag brake is needed. I run a 13.5 brushless with 14T and it runs like a rapped ape.

 

[DRCrawlGood]

No drag brake is needed. I run a 13.5 brushless with 14T and it runs like a rapped ape.

I thought my 18.5 was fast I could only imagine how quick your truck scoots around. Like he said dragbrake is not needed due to the worms effectively not moving until under power. Its a nice perk of the LCC but it is also the devil due to binding.

 

[muddinscx]

I thought my 18.5 was fast I could only imagine how quick your truck scoots around. Like he said dragbrake is not needed due to the worms effectively not moving until under power. Its a nice perk of the LCC but it is also the devil due to binding.

Do they have a big binding problem?

 

[dieselmudder]

IMO a stock lcc can go ALOT farther than a stock AX-10. A AX-10 with all the hop-ups can probably compete with a stock lcc.

Really only must haves is v3 cvds (new losi's come with them), good dig springs (new losi's come with them), run a over/under setup or run the hd f&r (21:1 reduction stock is 25:1). Ideally an dlux chromoly worm rear and a hd up front. Dlux knuckle weights. They flat out turn a good rig into a awesome rig.

Oh and gold losi springs.

If your seriously interested in going losi route, i'd suggest reading through del monte's thread if you want to run the stock chassis. Although i'd recommend taking alook at overkillrc's new chassis. You'll have to read my putting power the shafts thread or pete's (ghtpdm5) build thread

Comes with the dig, its combined with the transmission.
Yes the worms are hard on motors due to no reduction.
Its a good truck right out of the box.

Overall the LCC is a great truck and I have done well with it, but the competition is getting pretty stout and the LCC struggles to do well on the high end of the spectrum.

i think drcrawlgood is wrong, as losikid stated theres a 21 or 25 to 1 gear reduction with the worm drive axles, theyre not harder on motors as to a torque load, actually easier on them. but the motor has to run more and faster due to the multiplied gear reduction. personally i love the low speed and torque of my night crawler. granted i dont comp. but i can spend an hour cruisin my woods one handed while i drink beer.

 

[ghtpdm5]

the problem is the inherent friction in the system, the lnc has a lower gear ratio than the lcc transmission as well. this means that the lnc trans is slightly kinder to brushed motors than the lcc. the lcc would be smoking the motor in 5 minutes if you tried that, and that's one i know for a fact. the only real people that are running brushed in their lcc's either do frequent maintenance on their quality motors, or run a traxxas 21t throwaway and just have another one around for when that one blows. the lnc internal ratio is slightly over 1:1, whereas the lcc internal ratio is under 1:1, meaning that discounting the pinion on the motor, the trans is a reduction unit in the lnc and a speeder unit in the lcc. this topic is about the lcc, which has well documented effects on brushed motors as are supported by everything said above. your night crawler experience barely applies and should be taken by all reading this as a night crawler only happening, since it is. i don't even run my 17.5t lcc comp truck for more than an hour without letting things cool, and that's with new bearings and carefully taking all the resistance i can out of the drivetrain. the problem with the losi platform is the friction in the worms. metal on metal contact always is a point of friction, now sliding metal on metal contact is a huge source of friction and that pushes the motor harder than it would be in almost any other platform currently out there for crawling.

 

[mdchris]

The advantage with the lcc over lnc is that any time you feel like it's starting to bind you just take care of it with the dig.

 

[muddinscx]

So what I've gathered so far on the bad side is brushed is a no go, worms and motor need a lot of cooling times, binding and not a lot of chassis options. The goods are torque twist is not really there, no need for drag brake, dig built in, great turnin angle, decent suspension tuning options, comes with alright tires stock, able to run hub weights, 4 links stock... I think that's about all I gathered so far. I'm just trying to do all my homework first before I buy one so that I know what to expect.

 

[ghtpdm5]

your chassis options are limited to your imagination and how much you want to put into it. and maintenance on the truck is more involved than an ax with frequent axle teardowns.

 

[mdchris]

An appropriately chosen brushless motor will not need lots of cooling times, in fact it probably won't need any at all. The differentials are what will need some cooling time, how often depends entirely on your driving style, you might be able to get away with an hour of driving before a 10 or 15 minute cool down. It's just important to keep them well greased. You'll see one of the first things people say to do is make a grease port on the diff case so you can just squirt some more grease in to them regularly without needing to take them apart.

 

[GiJoe]

your chassis options are limited to your imagination and how much you want to put into it.

Exactly! Proof in piont, Here is my my LCC Class 3 Top Truck. Dont limit yourself to whats available at a hobby shop. If you dont see it, Build it!"thumbsup"

 

[muddinscx]

I don't have the resources to build my own chassis and what not (live in an apartment). I can do my own links but that's about it.

so small grub screw hole in axles and grease often and allow cooling time. I guess after each pack, ill let it sit for a few minutes "thumbsup".
Thanks for all the help so far guys.

 

[ghtpdm5]

if you can afford a coping saw, drill, and a couple files, you can make a chassis. if you would like to get a good purpose built losi chassis, i would suggest (a bit biased) the overkillrc chassis hitting the market shortly. to see that, look at either losikid's or my thread (gonna have to dig a bit for mine) in the last couple pages. a few more pages in and you'll see the chassis i made with very simple tools mentioned above.

EDIT: the new overkill chassis, production varies slightly from my prototype

and i made this with a drill, coping saw, and files, ran the thing for 30 hours in 2 weeks, not a break.

anything is possible, think around your problem, not into it. thinking into the problem tends to lend itself to overcomplication, thinking around it ends in a simple, elegant design that simply works.

 

[muddinscx]

if you can afford a coping saw, drill, and a couple files, you can make a chassis. if you would like to get a good purpose built losi chassis, i would suggest (a bit biased) the overkillrc chassis hitting the market shortly. to see that, look at either losikid's or my thread (gonna have to dig a bit for mine) in the last couple pages. a few more pages in and you'll see the chassis i made with very simple tools mentioned above.

EDIT: the new overkill chassis, production varies slightly from my prototype

and i made this with a drill, coping saw, and files, ran the thing for 30 hours in 2 weeks, not a break.

anything is possible, think around your problem, not into it. thinking into the problem tends to lend itself to overcomplication, thinking around it ends in a simple, elegant design that simply works.

I got ya man. Ill look into getting a few more tools and give it a try.

What's different on the overkill chassis from the proto?

 

[ghtpdm5]

the production one's are more beefy basically, .4 thick shock arms instead of the pictured .250, more material to the chassis plates in general. i've had a couple problems with my proto during cold weather tests that were promptly fixed in the production design.

i recommend if you decide to make your own, McMaster-Carr for buying delrin. also keep in mind that i have tons of design time into both of those, and its pretty wild even to me what i was able to accomplish on it. 4.5 clearance is easy, and she stays planted and very stable. losikid has a vid up in his thread with the production model. i lack a decent way to take video, so he's the one to hunt down for vids.

sometimes all you have to do is stare at it for a while and it'll come to ya, if that doesn't work, sit and doodle for a while, the whole concept of the shark fin came to me with a very basic doodle when i was converting over to the cdw chassis. pretty much all my mods are documented in my thread (have a couple up my sleeve still :ror, from humble stock beginnings to the overkillrc test mule, its been a long process.

 

[muddinscx]

the production one's are more beefy basically, .4 thick shock arms instead of the pictured .250, more material to the chassis plates in general. i've had a couple problems with my proto during cold weather tests that were promptly fixed in the production design.

i recommend if you decide to make your own, McMaster-Carr for buying delrin. also keep in mind that i have tons of design time into both of those, and its pretty wild even to me what i was able to accomplish on it. 4.5 clearance is easy, and she stays planted and very stable. losikid has a vid up in his thread with the production model. i lack a decent way to take video, so he's the one to hunt down for vids.

sometimes all you have to do is stare at it for a while and it'll come to ya, if that doesn't work, sit and doodle for a while, the whole concept of the shark fin came to me with a very basic doodle when i was converting over to the cdw chassis. pretty much all my mods are documented in my thread (have a couple up my sleeve still :ror, from humble stock beginnings to the overkillrc test mule, its been a long process.

I think for now I'm gonna take to non hobbiest way and just buy one down the road. I think if jake (when he was with losi) can kick ass with that stock chassis, it'll be good enough for me to learn how the lcc works.

What would be a good brushless setup? I know the mamba max and what not are good but very bulky and the tekin rs esc's are like $200+ dollars but very smooth. I want to run a redline motor, prolly 13.5t but not sure on the esc (no novak).