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Crawler Tech: How to Build a Winch

Thanks a bunch for all your help Griz
cheers.gif
No problem Ern. 8)
 
I have a Hitec 645MG servo that has been converted to a winch. I am using it with a Traxxas TQ3 TX & RX that has a 3 position toggle switch. The servo works fine and has more than enough strength.

My problem is getting the winch to remain idle / or stop. Every time I turn on the power to drive the truck, I have to adjust the EPA (?) on the TX. It will cause the servo to stop movement (center?), but as soon as I use the winch, it spools slowly in one direction (it can spool in or out, it's random). I am unsure if I am explaining it correctly. It is frustrating.

I already hate the idea of using a cheap radio and this makes it even worse. Unfortunately it's the only radio I have with a 3 way 3rd channel switch.

What can I do to fix this? It finally pulled itself so tight it broke the line.
 
I metered the pot with no power and it reads 1.749k and it goes up to like 1.990 when I turn the pot. No reading was seen when you add power to the servo. Two 1.7k res should work and keep it centred.
 
I have a Hitec 645MG servo that has been converted to a winch. I am using it with a Traxxas TQ3 TX & RX that has a 3 position toggle switch. The servo works fine and has more than enough strength.

My problem is getting the winch to remain idle / or stop. Every time I turn on the power to drive the truck, I have to adjust the EPA (?) on the TX. It will cause the servo to stop movement (center?), but as soon as I use the winch, it spools slowly in one direction (it can spool in or out, it's random). I am unsure if I am explaining it correctly. It is frustrating.

I already hate the idea of using a cheap radio and this makes it even worse. Unfortunately it's the only radio I have with a 3 way 3rd channel switch.

What can I do to fix this? It finally pulled itself so tight it broke the line.
I have had the exact same problem with the TQ3. I tried it with my DX3 (setting the center and turning the radio on and off several times) and it didn't drift.
The only solution I have tried with the TQ3 is adding in a power cutoff switch. I have not tried installing resistors at all.
 
I'm having the same problem with my M8. I had to unplug the winch servo, and haven't felt like opening up the servo again to center it. Not sure what to do.
 
I think every winch servo that I have seen creeps!! I know mine does. I have seen a few guys that use a rubber band and hook the winch hook to it, that way when it creeps it does not put alot of strain on the servo.
 
I have had the exact same problem with the TQ3. I tried it with my DX3 (setting the center and turning the radio on and off several times) and it didn't drift.
The only solution I have tried with the TQ3 is adding in a power cutoff switch. I have not tried installing resistors at all.

I sold the TQ3 a few days after that post and then sold my JR XR3i to a local club member:). I decided that I would just use my DX6 for all my rock crawlers to keep it simple:idea:. I was also hoping the DX6 would fix the winch wandering on my 2.2 scaler.

I hooked my Hitec 645MG winch up to the rudder position on the DX6. It still wandered:x. The digital trim did help, but it still wandered. It was much easier to control with the DX6 in terms of trimming out the wandering compared to the TQ3 with modded third channel.

The CC BEC in my scaler is set to 6.4V since it's running three servos and I wonder how much the higher voltage is playing into the winch wandering:?:. In fact, it broke the line and I lost the hook at the last comp:-(. So for now it's not hooked up at all:-(. If there is an easy fix to the winch wondering, please post up with a Radio Shack part number, or link, or something. I really wish I could get the winch to work remote control like it's suppose to be with out having to turn it on or off (manually), plugging it into the receiver just for limited use, adding a micro switch, etc.
 
I got a TP995 that I'm going to convert to a winch, I will try the pot first. If that doesn't work I guess I will try resistors. I will post my findings. I will be running it on a DX3R.
 
I think I got it. Took the pot out and used some res to come up with 2.6k. My trim is not centered like 3 clicks off but it don't move unless I use the radio. So I will see how it goes.
 
So I messed with the TP995 that I have a little bit. The stock pot was a pain to mess with, it came out very quickly. So then I played around with a few other option. I tried replacing the factory pot with one from Radio Shack, 10k-Ohm 15 turn cermet pot/trimmer ( 271-343 ) was much better than the factory pot, I was able to use the transmitter to zero it out pretty good, but wanted to try more. Next tried 2 resistors instead of the pot/trimmer. 1st 3.3k-Ohm resistors ( 271-1328 ), very nice much better than the pot/trimmer approach. Only 1 click on the transmitter to zero the servo out, hardly any servo creep. Next I tried 4.7k-Ohm resistors ( 271-1330 ), basically the same result as the 3.3k resistors. So that is what I left in the servo. Creep with the resistors is basically nothing. I haven't found a spool yet, or mounted it up in my rigs yet. Just tests with it sitting on the table, watching for creep. I will post up more feedback once I actually get it all mounted up and a spool on it.

IMG_8164_adj_sml.jpg
 
So I messed with the TP995 that I have a little bit. The stock pot was a pain to mess with, it came out very quickly. So then I played around with a few other option. I tried replacing the factory pot with one from Radio Shack, 10k-Ohm 15 turn cermet pot/trimmer ( 271-343 ) was much better than the factory pot, I was able to use the transmitter to zero it out pretty good, but wanted to try more. Next tried 2 resistors instead of the pot/trimmer. 1st 3.3k-Ohm resistors ( 271-1328 ), very nice much better than the pot/trimmer approach. Only 1 click on the transmitter to zero the servo out, hardly any servo creep. Next I tried 4.7k-Ohm resistors ( 271-1330 ), basically the same result as the 3.3k resistors. So that is what I left in the servo. Creep with the resistors is basically nothing. I haven't found a spool yet, or mounted it up in my rigs yet. Just tests with it sitting on the table, watching for creep. I will post up more feedback once I actually get it all mounted up and a spool on it.

How much voltage were you supplying to the winch servo? I have found that higher voltage increases the creep. Also did it stop completely, or was it still very slightly moving?

Did you activate / move the winch servo, allow it to stop and after doing so, did it stay where you stopped it? Or did it creep after you moved it?

On my DX6, if I set the neutral point with the trim, the winch servo will not creep until I use it. Once I have moved the servo from the original starting point it creeps. Of course I could reset the trim, but the entire scenario is old and has caused me to disconnect the servo until a permanent solution is found.

BTW, do you have any part numbers for those resistors? Or is it pretty common and straight forward what I would need to purchase from Radio Shack? You never know what type of person will be working and I find it easier to walk in knowing exactly what I need. Thanks for any help.
 
just a quick probably noob question. as shown that its so god dang hard to keep a winch from creeping, does this also mean that when your using a winch as a steering servo, and its a 645, and saying it has enough power to lift a rig, why doesnt it slowly turn your wheels one way, saying that wheels dont take as much effort to turn as to lift a rig. even when the pin is taken out, when its not moving, the pin doesnt matter i would think, if the pin were in and the servo was in rest position it wouldent be touching anything.

my next question is, since the tq3 needs a screwdriver to adjust the 3rd channel, is there a way to swap the steering trim with the 3rd trim, that way its easier to adjust the winch, and saying the my my steering servo rarely need to be adjusted much, i think that grabbing a screw driver wouldent be to difficult before i leave my garage to adjust it. thanks in advanced!
 
How much voltage were you supplying to the winch servo? I have found that higher voltage increases the creep. Also did it stop completely, or was it still very slightly moving?

Did you activate / move the winch servo, allow it to stop and after doing so, did it stay where you stopped it? Or did it creep after you moved it?

On my DX6, if I set the neutral point with the trim, the winch servo will not creep until I use it. Once I have moved the servo from the original starting point it creeps. Of course I could reset the trim, but the entire scenario is old and has caused me to disconnect the servo until a permanent solution is found.

BTW, do you have any part numbers for those resistors? Or is it pretty common and straight forward what I would need to purchase from Radio Shack? You never know what type of person will be working and I find it easier to walk in knowing exactly what I need. Thanks for any help.

Voltage is 6 volts, supplied from a CC BEC. It does creep some, but I don't know what other are having to compare to. But it pretty much stays where it stops. I will get some times, like degrees of rotation in however minutes and post them up.

How much creep are you guys getting?

I still do not have a spool or drum on it yet. So there is no resistance of a hook being pulled tight against the bumper mounting point, etc. But it the rotation is too much, then I will put a switch inline so that I can turn it off when i am not winching, and on when i need it. If I do the switch, I will just mount it up in the fenderwell or something.

I just walked in and found the resistors. They are in drawers in my local store towards the back, 5 to a package.

Currently the radio I'm using is a JR xs3, but by the weekend it will be swapped out for a DX3R.
 
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FYI: This is my first winch so I have nothing to compare to.

K, here are my results. They may not be very scientific, but oh well. And currently since it is hooked to my JR xs3 it is hooked into the steering channel on the receiver, since the 3rd channel on this radio is only 2 position.

IMG_8168_adj_sml.jpg


So in my testing, I would use the throttle as if i were driving the truck. Then make a couple of rotation on the winch, leaving the servo horn in the position that it was in before I started making rotations. Hope that makes sence.

Anyways, here is what I found out. It takes roughly 20 to 25 minutes to have it make 360 degrees of servo creep. Is that good or bad?

And I'm guessing a higher quality servo would help too.
 
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20 to 25 minutes to make a full rotation is not much creep at all Jim, mine would eventually get to about 20 seconds for one full rotation.
The thing is, any creep is bad. If you don't pay attention it'll pull the line tight and snap it or burn up the servo.

Like Nova said, I could center the servo for no creep (with my TQ3) and after a few uses and turning the radio on and off it would start creeping.
 
20 to 25 minutes to make a full rotation is not much creep at all Jim, mine would eventually get to about 20 seconds for one full rotation.
The thing is, any creep is bad. If you don't pay attention it'll pull the line tight and snap it or burn up the servo.

Like Nova said, I could center the servo for no creep (with my TQ3) and after a few uses and turning the radio on and off it would start creeping.

OK, well that is good to know. Also each time i turn on my radio I do not have to mess with the trims on it. But I think I will still at a switch to it so that I can completely kill it when I have no use for it.

Maybe I will take that old XRS esc I ahve sitting here and pull the guts out of the servo and hook the motor wires up to it. That should give a nice no creep winch servo I would think, just a thought. It might be overkill, but oh well.
 
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