• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Cutting a motor commutator & motor tweaks

Good stuff, just broke out my old motor rebuild gear from back in the carpet oval days. Rebuild 2 Integy motors for a guy I crawl with. Took me a while to remember all of the tricks I learned from the past. I relay miss building motors. That was part of the hobby for me. Now with all this brushless stuff coming out... Blah. These new guys don't know how easy they have it! Same thing goes for batteries! Discharge trays, dead shorting the battery, Raising the voltages. All of it was a lot of work! Now just get a brushless setup and a lipo and go to the track.. Its not the same!
 
Good stuff, just broke out my old motor rebuild gear from back in the carpet oval days. Rebuild 2 Integy motors for a guy I crawl with. Took me a while to remember all of the tricks I learned from the past. I relay miss building motors. That was part of the hobby for me. Now with all this brushless stuff coming out... Blah. These new guys don't know how easy they have it! Same thing goes for batteries! Discharge trays, dead shorting the battery, Raising the voltages. All of it was a lot of work! Now just get a brushless setup and a lipo and go to the track.. Its not the same!


No, its not. But brushless is headed in the same direction now. They are about to release (if they have not already) rebuild-able motors......they are putting them on dyno's now also. "thumbsup"

I started this hobby racing carpet oval.
 
Oh, and Rob, not trying to be a know it all. I am just learning all of this again myself. "thumbsup" I have been told that this man knew what he was doing and what he was talking about so I have been "going by the book" on everything I can. "thumbsup"

nah but youve got me thinking now lol.

same here, Oval racer at heart myself. if theres a tenth of a second to be saved or 5 more rpms to be gotten an Oval racers is always looking for it :)
 
You nerds talking about aligning the brush hoods with this tool?

brush-hood-alignment.jpg


I use one of those to get everything together and as a starting point.

Then I do the tweaks to the hoods one side at a time, like I showed earlier in the thread. Rarely have I seen the comm hit the center of the brush using that alignment tool alone.

Oh and yeah, I've serrated some brushes, and not some.
 
ok,this is what I'v been looking for.

I have searched lathes but all I get are larger ones.

where do I find these lathes and all tools needed.

also I assume I can do 380 and micro motors aswell with it?

I think cutting the comms wil be easy enough,but aligning the brushes
sound like it may take some practice.

I really want/need to learn this. but I cant drop 300 for a harbor frieght
micro lathe right now. and thats about the smallest I found.

glad I found this here,rcc freaking ROCKS
 
Last edited:
ok found a entigy xipp perfect comm lath 2

it says from 180-540 sized motors can be cut.
129 on thier web site

90 new on e-bay
but I cant get muck detail about it.
does it come with the bit/pully's belts,motor ect?

but this is what I'll shoot for I guess since it does 380's


also

is it possibale to remove a comm and replace it with a larger diam. comm?

and if so where to buy the larger comm.
and whats the process of removal ect.
 
the only hudy and cobra's I see are for 540 sized motors.

I talked to fantom,they said the 380's wont work in a typical comm lathe
the integy is the only one I have found that will do the 540 and 380

but I like the looks of the fantom lath the best.
 
Don't forget to search Cobra and Huddy on fleabay but don't even think you can live without a diamond cutter it's a must have IMO.

Norm you are right to an extent. It has been a few years since I even owned a lathe. Mid 90's. Diamond cutters are great but very fragile. For a typical crawler toolbox a carbide will suffice. Now if you are experienced and cut comms on a regular basis diamond cutters are keen.

Bit of info from the master, Big Jim:
Choosing A Bit

First, the benefits of carbide supercede that of a diamond. Here's why. If you've never used a diamond tool bit before, you will probably chip it before you figure out how to set it up. Then you won't know it's chipped and you'll keep trying and trying and you'll look like Big Jim and Hank by the time you stop pulling your hair out. They chip very easily. Then you're out of a bit of money and have a whole lot of frustration ahead and behind you. Diamond bits are for experienced pit lathe users or machinists. I have been cutting toy motor comms for 30 years and I use carbide bits.

Diamonds can go bad if you take too big a cut, if you hit the tabs, even if it was cutting fine when you packed it away, a diamond bit can be bad the next time you take it out. Don't ask me why. I have even chipped a diamond just by using the wrong kind of brush to clear the chips away. I figured out later that the steel band around the small paint brush I was using must have hit the tip.

And no two diamond bits are the same as far as setup goes. Some bits need no shims. Others of the same brand and type will require 2 shims. Don't ask me why on that either. Carbide bits of the same brand always seem to setup the same. Another reason to use carbide is when it's dull, the finish looks like crap. A diamond will just start cutting out-of-round and you won't know it until your start putting your motors together because the finish looks fine.

Unless you are extremely experienced, stay away from diamond bits. Use carbide until you gain that experience. Then you can either buy a tool sharpener like I did to do the job right, keep honing the tip with a diamond file until it is so distorted it (you unintentionally change the angles a little each time if you won't work anymore then sharpen by hand), throw it away and start with a new $4 bit or use a diamond. Here's the tool sharpener I use. I've had it since 1980 and it still works fine. www.glendo.com.
 
I use carbide bits all the time. Get the cheapo set of them from Harbor Freight, just swap the tips around or replace them when they start cutting poorly. Diamond is nice, but not necessary.

Search the rctech.net classifieds for used comm lathes.

Needing to cut 380 motors will really limit the selection, as you have found.
 
This is a nice looking motor, I'll have to see if I can drag this out long enough so the guy will forget he gave it to me to tune up.

Yokomo based 12 turn double, laydown brushes, four magnet can, perfect for flooring it in the scaler! :mrgreen:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2270.JPG
    IMG_2270.JPG
    66 KB · Views: 1,474
  • IMG_2273.JPG
    IMG_2273.JPG
    70.2 KB · Views: 1,457
  • IMG_2275.JPG
    IMG_2275.JPG
    85.7 KB · Views: 1,442
  • IMG_2276.JPG
    IMG_2276.JPG
    84.1 KB · Views: 1,449
  • IMG_2277.JPG
    IMG_2277.JPG
    85.7 KB · Views: 1,464
  • IMG_2278.JPG
    IMG_2278.JPG
    83.3 KB · Views: 1,437
  • IMG_2279.JPG
    IMG_2279.JPG
    82.4 KB · Views: 1,482
  • IMG_2280.JPG
    IMG_2280.JPG
    85.4 KB · Views: 1,463
  • IMG_2281.JPG
    IMG_2281.JPG
    53.5 KB · Views: 1,480
  • IMG_2283.JPG
    IMG_2283.JPG
    60.9 KB · Views: 2,225
Looks like your having fun EP. I got my little cobra lathe in Friday evening, now I'm going through old storage bins, closets, shelves, etc... hunting motors to tinker with:mrgreen:. Cut on them first to get the hang of it again before I start cutting all the high dollar handwounds.
 
Back
Top