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Cutting a motor commutator & motor tweaks

in another thread I asked if you could break a motor in by another source of rotation. so no voltage going through the motor.
eddio brought up a good point,that the motor becomes a generator and makes its own current,which then has no place to go.

I saw this,is this anygood,the way the two are joined does that give the voltage a place to go? or is this still going to be hard on the comm.
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/the-23258/RPM81292-RPM-Motor-Work/Detail

You could do one brush in the motor at a time. No brush arcing then.
 
Well, the theory was, you could pack the copper on them better, so you would have shorter wire lengths and/or fit bigger wire.....

They also claimed it created a lower profile of copper on the winds, so the arm had less drag when spinning up (gotta love trinity advertising sometimes)...

In reality......they didn't really pack tighter on most winds......wire length was pretty much always the same.......and I surely never noticed a motor spin up better with it......on top of that, the stuff was a bitch to wind with, some winds were not even possible with it, as it just would not fit right on the arm....plus the stuff was expensive.....

I will point out though, we never tried with wires as small as we do now for crawling, though I dunno if they even make it that small.....I can ask...

So basically........it didn't really do anything positive, but it didn't do anything bad.......

There is another thing trinity used to use on their mods I am gonna try.....I think it will actually be beneficial in crawling. I have some on order and should be here any day....

Later EddieO
 
On the break in method..........I've done every way you can imagine really....I never recommend using another motor or a drill to do it......the best way is to just let it run at a low voltage for 5+ minutes until they are seated.....unless you want to get a fussybrush system, if you can find one....that was the only other method I would endorse to speed it up...

Later EddieO
 
Check this out. Pretty neat.

post-6936-1210877941.jpg
 
Ah, old kyosho motors......I've owned most of them at least once....I still have some nice examples of a few of them....

Some of them sure would be neat to mess around with for crawling....

Later EddieO
 
I Just found my old Le Mans 480 S, just need some new brushes, com is freshly cut, might have to try it out in my R1, Have had that motor since 86 I think
 
Another 35 turn from Br00d I just gots. Notice the + after the 35? :twisted:

Or is that a t for turn? :lmao:

My other Br00d doesn't have it, so to me, it's a +. :mrgreen:

img3001vy.jpg


img3032z.jpg


img3038v.jpg


Notice no drill holes for balancing, but little yellow epoxy dots.

I quote, "no steel gone from the arm and a shit ton of copper on it."

Giggity.
 
Yep, slotted like that. There are other ways around lowering the detent torque too. I prefer the 5 slot arms since it goes way beyond what a 4 mag or slotted arm can do on the low speed control.

20.5ga is what we have been using on the team motors as well EeePee. It will have some honking power, but will wear out faster too. Super drivers seem to prefer the slotted arm or 4 magnet can, while most of my 2.2 drivers seem to prefer the 2 magnet can to keep the low end kick for breaking traction.
 
The just a trinity arm.....they had tokoyo mechs put the slot down the center as a guide for the balancing holes....unique thing about the trinity arms a lot of people don't know, is that they are actually 5.5mm.

The t was for team, so I didn't get them mixed up with the other 35 turn motors I was doing that day......

Slotting arms is old, been done since the 80s....it fell out a favor for a long time because it lowers the efficiency of the motor, but as battery capacity got crazy in the early 2000's, Orion started messing with them again, with Marc Rhienard winning his first world title with one. They don't just mess with the torque, they massively change the powerband, increase overall power, and spool up very fast.....

I've planned to market them, but I haven't got to test them as much as I would like till now.....I ran 40t Super Slots at the last comp in my truck.....stupid amounts of power. The other testers loved them....

This is Novembers Limited Edition...

Motor2Copyright.jpg


Later EddieO
 
Seems to be the exact opposite of epoxy balancing? :ror:

Massively changes the powerband... which way?
 
You are removing steel from the arm.......RPM goes up, overall power goes up. It's very similar to a 4mm arm, but the way the arm reacts to the magnets is different....the slot basically lets it glide past the magnets easier. I've tried them in 4 magnet cans.....including my own rig, while the power was beyond nutty, the drag brake isn't great. The low speed control is awesome......from testing, 2 magnet cans seem the best with them.

While you can drill balance them, it just takes MORE steel out of the arm, thus making more RPM and more power......plus balancing them isn't so easy, as your going WAY down into the armature. It took a bit, but I found the epoxy balancing putty. Everyone used to get it through LRP, but I talked to Andreas and he told me the company went out of business......so, after some searching and emails, I found a quaility replacement (might even be the same stuff, just the US company)....

When Orion won worlds with them, they did some stuff to make drill balancing very minimal....arms were cherry-picked and then wound a certain way.....if arm needed too much correction, it was tossed....

Later EddieO
 
Did I mention TEDROCKZ kicks ass?

img3045i.jpg






And now I can try out the new tools I got from Br00d.

img3026m.jpg


img3021zj.jpg


img3022j.jpg


Party. :mrgreen:
 
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