Cutting a motor commutator & motor tweaks

[Robbob]

you can change that lathe to be what ever side you need it to be as long as both sides the top part, bit holder, are V-grooved. you just back the adjuster out of it so it comes off the v-grooves. simply spin it around and thread it back on.

it would be this way after

heres a picture from my motor thread from TLTRyan with the same lathe ...... look at the bit angle

and



3S is way to fast for a lathe, mines a 65T slave that I only spin at 5V for mirror finish cuts everytime.

 

[792.5cj5]

So what would you do to a 35t integy lathe motor new out of the bag. Turn comm yes. But, best way to break it in, different brushes, different springs, best way to time them.

On a MOA rig. Should I run the front motor backwards or the rear or does it matter?

Thanks

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

The integy springs seem pretty stiff, I haven't measured them. You could go with a 15oz or 13oz spring (very heavy) to help the drag. The brushes are ok once broken in. You almost have to shape them unless you want to use water or much time for the break in period.

I would recommend 6 to 12 degrees of timing on them. Running them at zero timing is risky because of the loose construction tolerances, it is likely to ruin the comm.

 

[792.5cj5]

Whats the best way to time a integy motor

 

[EeePee]

The same way you time all the other motors.

 

[792.5cj5]

A integy can has no marks and the one I'm working with has no sticker at all. So How do you time this motor and all the others?

Thanks maybe

 

[killswitch]

A integy can has no marks and the one I'm working with has no sticker at all. So How do you time this motor and all the others?

Thanks maybe

Timing jig. Check out the one Eddie sells at www.teambrood.com

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

On the can there are four little indentations around the top where the endbell sits, and also four indentations on the side to hold the magnets in place for assembly. The upper dent at the top that is between the magnet dents can be reffered to as zero timing. The endbell setscrews have a little mark next to them that also represents zero timing.

This can also has a hash mark and zero stamped into it.

 

[mudboger07]

The integy springs seem pretty stiff, I haven't measured them. You could go with a 15oz or 13oz spring (very heavy) to help the drag. The brushes are ok once broken in. You almost have to shape them unless you want to use water or much time for the break in period.

I would recommend 6 to 12 degrees of timing on them. Running them at zero timing is risky because of the loose construction tolerances, it is likely to ruin the comm.

John, will advancing the timing make it run slower in reverse than forward? I just cut my Integey coms with a cobra lathe I have and read here were you say to run the timing between 6 and 12 degrees. Also if i remember correctly you can turn the bell to the left or right to change timing, witch way would i turn it to get the timing you are talking about...thanks for the info..."thumbsup"

 

[EddieO]

In theory, you will have a tad less power in reverse..but, who cares.....less comm wear, more power in forward, etc are worth it......besides, going in reverse is BAD anyways....I doubt you would ever notice the less power in reverse anyways....

Counter clockwise if you are looking down at the endbell will advance it....

And the 4 tabs stamped into the can are hardly to hold to the magnets in place during assembly.....they don't even come close to touching them. They are purely there for one reason.....to give the timing ring something to hold onto.....they serve no other purpose. The magnets are put in place unmagentized and held there my a special insert thats removed after the glue cures....I've seen pics of the procedure at sagami.

Later EddieO

 

[EeePee]

...I doubt you would ever notice the less power in reverse anyways....

Well shit, then maybe I won't notice more power in forward. :mrgreen:

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

And the 4 tabs stamped into the can are hardly to hold to the magnets in place during assembly.....they don't even come close to touching them. They are purely there for one reason.....to give the timing ring something to hold onto.....they serve no other purpose. The magnets are put in place unmagentized and held there my a special insert thats removed after the glue cures....I've seen pics of the procedure at sagami.

Later EddieO

The four tabs stamped to hold the magnets, not the top dents... ... ........ ....... .... ......... .................. ........... .......... ............. ... ........ .. ......... . .......... .... ..... .... ......... .... ....... .... ...... ... ........ ........ .... ..... ... .......... ....... ...... . ........... .... ... ...... .... .... ............

 

[EeePee]

That the new speed controller John? :ror:

Lil big maybe...

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

Thats the mini micro 3 amp 7.2v controller. For 1/18th scale. weighs 8 pounds.

 

[EeePee]

Nice! 3 amps should handle everything out there!

Sweet, 8 pounds! That'll balance out the lead acid 6 volt battery I'm gonna use just right.

New technology. Fantastic.

 

[mudboger07]

Thanks alot guys for the info, Myself and helhedded are ganna go do some practicing tomarrow so I'll give the advance timing a shot and see how it works for me...I can use all the help I can get after being out of crawling for a year........lol

 

[EddieO]

You probably wouldn't in a Losi

My mistake John, guess I read it different...

Later EddieO

 

[dkf]

So to further my confusion I quote this off McMaster: "All are finished and ground. When used in a lathe, styles AR, BR, FR, GR, and ER are fed from right to left (as shown). Styles AL, BL, FL, GL, and EL are fed from left to right." With the use of the nice picture: http://www.mcmaster.com/#al-style-lathe-tool-bits/=9h9i4i

This would indicate the AL is the correct style??

On a side note, I got the lathe to cut pretty nice tonight, but I was running it on 3S, with the blade way high, rotated 90* clockwise and mounted at an angle.:lmao: Only prob is that it can't cut all the way to the windings, the backside of the bit will contact the tabs on the arm.

Yeah you need an AR bit as was said a few times.

That said I have the same lathe and picked up a couple carbide bits to try (and for backups) and they didn't work for shit. The tool nose radius is too big and the edge doesn't have enough relief nor is sharp enough. Also you have to take light cuts with this lathe, no more than a .001". It helps to get a scrap arm and experiment with the voltage (speed) to get the best cut.

When I machine copper (my real job) I use a HSS bit on the small stuff because you can get a super sharp edge on it which is what you need here. Havn't got time to grind a HSS bit and screw with it yet. I'm not shelling out the money for a PCD cutter, too touchy and too expensive.

 

[AreCee]

I picked up several carbide bits from McMaster-Carr and they work great. At $5/ea I can just toss them when they dull. BTW I have the same lathe.

 

[EeePee]

Something isn't right.