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Cutting a motor commutator & motor tweaks

I pretty well had it figured out, but thanks anyway. "thumbsup"

The rock on the wheel example was my way of explaining how low-tech static balancing is as compared to dynamic balancing, which you would (hopefully) get if you took your out of balance wheel to a tire shop for a proper balance.

Dynamic is obviously the better choice, but static will get you by if you have no other option.
It sounded like you understood....but I wanted to be sure as well as help others that may say, "WTF??!!" when seeing static vs. dynamic."thumbsup""thumbsup"

Long frikkin post though.:roll::lmao::lmao:
 
It sounded like you understood....but I wanted to be sure as well as help others that may say, "WTF??!!" when seeing static vs. dynamic."thumbsup""thumbsup"

Long frikkin post though.:roll::lmao::lmao:

It might have been useful if I had mentioned that I used to hang around my buddies tires shop quite a bit and have seen many a tire go through their dynamic balancer. I'm pretty familiar with the concept.
 
Nothing special about the bits, they are dirt cheap....they just have a different tip and the name escapes me at the moment...

The tip looks like this...

\ /
|

So as you drill, the holes turns into a counter sink to a degree, but only once you are past the straight part of the bit.

Later EddieO
 
3133tyg.jpg


or maybe...

63014_m.jpg
 
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Nothing special about the bits, they are dirt cheap....they just have a different tip and the name escapes me at the moment...

The tip looks like this...

\ /
|

So as you drill, the holes turns into a counter sink to a degree, but only once you are past the straight part of the bit.

Later EddieO



Is it a chamfer bit?
 
Center drills! Thats it...like I said, major brain fart...

ITs the top picture....

I remember when big jim told me what to buy, I figured, drill bits.....better buy a bunch cause they wear out....Jim laughed when he flew up here the first time to help set up the shop......current bit is going on 7 years now...

Later EddieO
 
Got a Jake's Performance Hobbies 37 turn Checkpoint motor.
attachment.php
From post #397 in this thread, I have 2 motors in my Bully. They have similar looking endbells with the round brushes. Cans are a medium grey and only have "Japan" stamped on them.
Very nice looking winds, must be handwounds.
My issues are:
1-Are they rebuildable by any of the motor guys?
2-Are they reasonable motors?
3-How do I guess at wind count, I'm thinking about 35T but not sure.

My rear motor started having issues, if you hit it either fwd or rev, it may/may not spin. Twist it a bit and it would go. Pulled it apart, comm could use a cut, brushes look to be ~3/8" long (should be fine), winds look good. Not sure what the issue is, maybe a short? Doing a meter check from segment to segment shows megohms connection through some combinations, ~6ohms through others.
 
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Thats an aluminum endbell checkpoint teardown....

A meter check isn't something that always works.....hard to explain.

You may be experiencing what I've coined as a stalled armature...its a weird phenomomen.....

1. Yes they are full rebuildable....I sell the brushes and springs for them...
2. They are great motors, though make sure the endbell is protected....don't want it getting scratches and shorting out (check for this now, could be your rear motor issue).
3. Most bully trucks run 35t.....but there really is no way to accurately tell wind count once its wound without unwinding it and counting normally.

Later EddieO
 
Thats an aluminum endbell checkpoint teardown....

A meter check isn't something that always works.....hard to explain.

You may be experiencing what I've coined as a stalled armature...its a weird phenomomen.....

1. Yes they are full rebuildable....I sell the brushes and springs for them...
2. They are great motors, though make sure the endbell is protected....don't want it getting scratches and shorting out (check for this now, could be your rear motor issue).
3. Most bully trucks run 35t.....but there really is no way to accurately tell wind count once its wound without unwinding it and counting normally.

Later EddieO
EddieO....it is a plastic endbell (sorry, I forgot to be a bit more explicit).
Based on a run today with a Tekin 35T rear motor, I will have to guess this motor (as asked about) is a 40T+ motor since the rear now has more wheel speed. I didn't change gearing when swapping motors, so a lower wind would account for this.


Stalled armature......WTF?, is it a rebuild fixable issue or a bad winding? If you say, "I don't know until I have it in hand" that's fine.......just asking.8)
 
The plastic endbell version is what I sell as my Onslaught motor......Checkpoint never OEM sold the Aluminum version. Racers in the end liked the plastic version for most classes anyways, as it was lighter and the aluminum was only really need for Onroad....

Its a great motor, should have no issues with them......I personally love the motors.....the big knock on them is finding replacement brushes and springs in a pinch, as many shops never got much of them. I have a full load of the brushes and springs. Austin Dunn used a pair of the Aluminum Endbell version in his 2.2 rig at nationals that were JPH units.

There is no fix to the stalled arm syndrome......its basically some form of a short, but its weird as I often get the arms and they spec out fine, but even after a rebuild they still do the same stuff in the truck. There is not fix if a comm cut and new brushes don't work.

Your guess is as good as mine on the wind, but less power, wheelspeed, etc would be good indicators its a 40T+ if the 35t is moving quicker assuming all variables are the same (axle type, gearing, etc).

Later EddieO
 
Those are the Trinity Shock. They are a great motor. I believe that series of them was made for a series Bob Stormer put on.

The Shock is the same endbell as the Cobalt 2, except it has clear anodizing and uses different brushes....

I have some Shocks still that I am gonna use on a Limited Edition one of these days.

Later EddieO
 
I may have to get my hands on one. thanks for the info. One of these days I'll post photos of my recent acquisitions, put it this way someone ran a lot of dirt ovals."thumbsup"
 
The plastic endbell version is what I sell as my Onslaught motor......Checkpoint never OEM sold the Aluminum version. Racers in the end liked the plastic version for most classes anyways, as it was lighter and the aluminum was only really need for Onroad....There is no fix to the stalled arm syndrome......its basically some form of a short, but its weird as I often get the arms and they spec out fine, but even after a rebuild they still do the same stuff in the truck. There is not fix if a comm cut and new brushes don't work.

Your guess is as good as mine on the wind, but less power, wheelspeed, etc would be good indicators its a 40T+ if the 35t is moving quicker assuming all variables are the same (axle type, gearing, etc).

Later EddieO

Thanks for the comments. This thread reminds me of all the crap I forgot over the years, not that I knew as much as others.:lmao:
Yes, same gearing, all I did was remove the "issue motor", swap the pinion to the 35T and install it. The 35T has a bit more snap to it.

OK, so I'm going to look for a pair of 35T-40T HW's.
 
As far as the stalled armature goes...another option could be that one of the gaps in the comm is larger than it should be and the leading edge of the brush is getting hung up...possibly anyway...
 
Its not the comm, thats for sure.....its something in the windings. Though the comm thing can happen, but I don't refer to that as a stalled armature.....just a hung brush. Typically happens to very poor maintenance when the hung brush scenario comes into play.

Later EddieO
 
I paid $26 for this. I think I did OK. I remember something awhile back about 4 magnet cans I tried to search back with no luck, what ever happened with that? I have a dozen or so.
photo3026.jpg

photo3024.jpg
 
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