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Cutting a motor commutator & motor tweaks

The extra roll I give you is the one Eddie sent me for it. Maybe it has a shelf life to print properly?!?. Should be an easy find at an office supply or such. I am googling for a fix now"thumbsup"
 
That's correct. And up until the paper change it worked perfectly.
Take a piece of it and either get it near an incandescent light bulb, or near a flame. If it's thermal paper, it will change color quickly."thumbsup"

Our company uses both but the rolls look the same, it's how I figure out which is which when they get mixed up.8)
 
Uh, I didn't send you any extra paper did I? If I did it was whatever came with the dyno....my wife packed the box, blame her:flipoff:

I can't remember the last time I bought some of that stuff.....I bought a big case of it, which was enough to dyno like 50000 motors.

The long and the short of it, those printers need to pretty much stop moving for them not to work.

Later EddieO
 
Thanks guys, I'm gonna swing through the Staples store after work and grab some. Hurry up 3:30!

I was bumming pretty hard last night that I just shut it all down and watched Momento, the movie. I did even think of try pieces of the old stuff, or peel a few feet off the not working roll.
 
I realize it would be exhausting, but you could just write the numbers down as they're displayed on the screen...

Just an option. :flipoff:
 
Write things down? Who does that anymore?

I went and got new paper and put it in and it didn't work! I found online instructions and saw I had the paper in upside down, though I cannot see how that would make a difference. Then I saw the way to run a self test on the thing and BAM!!!! It's printing. Flew over and ran a quick dyno run, and BAM!! It's working. And it better had worked after spending $17 on 9 rolls of this stupid paper for a 1986 printer.

I should see if the old paper will work with the roll placed what seems to be upside down, but eff it, it works!

Time to do some damage up in here.
 
What does that mean?

I've been doing work since I got off work. I guess I can post one, eh?
 
What does that mean?

<a href="%3Ciframe%20width=" 420"="" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/JN99jshaQbY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="">"><a href="%3Ciframe%20width=" 420"="" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/JN99jshaQbY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""><iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/JN99jshaQbY" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="420"></iframe>
 
Here's one! A Fantom (playing it safe for now :flipoff:) 35 turn with a 10 mm comm and standup brushes. Now as to what those brushes are, I'm not sure. I have green springs on there and they appear tweaked for tension, but again, I have no clue at this point. There's a chance the brushes are Trinity Lemans brushes. This is my beater motor for the Losi truck, and it worked well. It has more than my usual amount of run time before I skim the comm, but it's still likely under an hour total run time.

Back to back pulls with about a 60 second rest in between.
 

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Fairly consistent! Got a temp gun? Heat variations on the slave cause the variations I used to get. Always tried to start all runs at the same temp.
 
No temp gun anymore, and I'm letting the thing cool for a quite a while between runs as I saw those variations doing back to back pulls, back to back with multiple motors.

One of the motors has about a 15 watt advantage over the others. But I want to make sure everything is correct. Because it kind of, shouldn't be that way considering their construction.

Cordwood, walk in my internet shoes for a few...
 
I would send all but about six. Couple HH Cobalt Pullers, and a couple Teams, and a Checkpoint, and a nasty mofo, the Neo mag Brood. So silly. I could be persuaded to let go of all but one, that Neo mag motor. :twisted:

And I'd love to dangle it in front of killswitch's face. :flipoff:

:mrgreen:
 
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