chris.martell
Rock Crawler
Picked up a couple more pieces to the puzzle today. WB8 and a 7954 thanks to our wonderful classifieds.
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Detours 5:14 the Arc'teryx
- Thread starter chris.martell
- Start date
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
Dropped the axle housings and bevel gears off with Izzy my machinist today everything should be finished by Monday. Decided to go a bit more than .2 of an inch. Should be interesting.
hpiguy
Rock Crawler
I somehow missed this build, my watch must be slow again :mrgreen: it's looking great Chris. I truly appreciate the fab work that you guys put into your rigs, you know that. But, the good thing about off the shelf stuff is, if you break something, you can simply order another one. "thumbsup"
And that is the beauty, no 2 are the same ;-)
It would appear there's only a very limited number of us worldwide. ACE! "thumbsup"
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
A little mini update ill be going full width ar60 and bully on this rig I have all the parts on the way except for a housing, some uni's and the chassis
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
Got a little work done tonight modded my uni's and industrialized some bully knuckles.
I'm really liking the industrial look of these knuckles.
I'm really liking the industrial look of these knuckles.
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
MRCrackhead
RCC Addict
Those "ugly" brass weights will never match those Paleolithic Chro-Magnon bully knuckles...
You should either throw them away, or give them to me...
Wrap those knuckles with some hand-hammered, lead bolt-gun slugs, stained with the blood of slaughtered baby lambs.....it's the only way now.
You should either throw them away, or give them to me...
Wrap those knuckles with some hand-hammered, lead bolt-gun slugs, stained with the blood of slaughtered baby lambs.....it's the only way now.
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
Esc and Bec got smashed last night and wires shortened.
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
I got the notion to run mini t springs and dlux no preload cups on scx10 shocks. I had all the stuff to run mrc springs and really did want any spring on the body so I decided to run jeepindoug cups on top and dlux cups on bottom. With the threads no longer required I decided to break out my battery operated lathe (drill and dremel)and turn them down for a smooth body and to shave the weight.
And to compare
And to compare
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
Just b3 careful not to go to far they get thin very quickly
I can only imagine. I was actually thinking about doing with the plastic bodies, but not taking them as far as you did. Is there any flex in the shock body?
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
No flex at all
RICrawler
Quarry Creeper
Wow, nice "lathe" work! Those shocks look pretty darn good!
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
Well the second time is always better. I wasn't as happy with the way the shocks turned out on the first go around so I did another set to day and perfected my method, so I decided to do a write up on them so you guys wont need to go through the learning curve.
Here's the preferred tools need for us guy's without a machine shop at our disposal.
Drill
Dremel w/60 grit drum sander
File (cross cut preferred)
220 sand paper
Step 1
Chuck the shock body in the drill with the cap on the shock. (Take your time and get the truest spin you can it's important)
Step 2
With the shock body chucked and spinning (with cap on) sand the threads down most of the way.
Step 3
With the shock body chucked the other way holding the threads and making sure your spin is true as possible sand the other side down to your liking. (Keep in mind that you are roughly looking for the shape you want)
Step 4
At this point your shock body will be mostly smooth with some part still showing threads a tiny bit. This is because you cant possibly get a perfectly true spin with the drill and can't keep the drum sand perfectly square at all times so this is where the file helps. File the spots where the threads are showing and also any inconsistent spots that seem to high. (If you try to use the drum sander this will happen as you try to get them perfect)
Thread marks(by the time I remember to take this picture I had them mostly gone)
Step 5
After all the thread marks are gone hit the body lightly with edge of the file while chucked in the drill and spinning fast running the file back and forth and really hitting the high spots only.
Step 6
With the 220 sand paper wrapped around the shock body loosely and the shock body still in the drill work it back and forth till you get a smooth finish.
Here's the preferred tools need for us guy's without a machine shop at our disposal.
Drill
Dremel w/60 grit drum sander
File (cross cut preferred)
220 sand paper
Step 1
Chuck the shock body in the drill with the cap on the shock. (Take your time and get the truest spin you can it's important)
Step 2
With the shock body chucked and spinning (with cap on) sand the threads down most of the way.
Step 3
With the shock body chucked the other way holding the threads and making sure your spin is true as possible sand the other side down to your liking. (Keep in mind that you are roughly looking for the shape you want)
Step 4
At this point your shock body will be mostly smooth with some part still showing threads a tiny bit. This is because you cant possibly get a perfectly true spin with the drill and can't keep the drum sand perfectly square at all times so this is where the file helps. File the spots where the threads are showing and also any inconsistent spots that seem to high. (If you try to use the drum sander this will happen as you try to get them perfect)
Thread marks(by the time I remember to take this picture I had them mostly gone)
Step 5
After all the thread marks are gone hit the body lightly with edge of the file while chucked in the drill and spinning fast running the file back and forth and really hitting the high spots only.
Step 6
With the 220 sand paper wrapped around the shock body loosely and the shock body still in the drill work it back and forth till you get a smooth finish.
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
Finished set
Rtr weight of the set
My second set has an individual weight of 9.6g to 9.9 grams. If you strive for perfection and are will to take a risk my lightest one (1st batch) was 9.4g but I felt it was too thin and would damage easily.
Rtr weight of the set
My second set has an individual weight of 9.6g to 9.9 grams. If you strive for perfection and are will to take a risk my lightest one (1st batch) was 9.4g but I felt it was too thin and would damage easily.
MRCrackhead
RCC Addict
Nice writeup Chris.
Very trick shocks.
Good to see you back in the Lab.
Very trick shocks.
Good to see you back in the Lab.
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
After a long wait for a free bee shave job by the machinist I got the under drive shimmed amd in the housing.
After waiting over a month to get 2 housings and the over/under gears to be turned down a lot has changed. Deciding to go full width in the front now leaves me with an unshaved front housing and not wanting to wait any long I'll be doing the front myself at least the ring gear is done!
Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk
After waiting over a month to get 2 housings and the over/under gears to be turned down a lot has changed. Deciding to go full width in the front now leaves me with an unshaved front housing and not wanting to wait any long I'll be doing the front myself at least the ring gear is done!
Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk
M_ENERGY
Rock Crawler
Hey Chris by chance do you have a drill press? Its an easy way to shave the housing down "thumbsup" You can use it like a mill on little plastic rc stuff.
