• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Dlux Sportsman build

Yeah I get that pro=moa. I'm just not clear on what makes it a pro/moa style skid when its on a sporty.

Sporty skid = sculpted chunk of delrin with holes to mount a transmission

MOA style skid = 2 hex standoffs and a thin skid plate, no holes for mounting a transmission. However in this particular case, Erik is using his 7075 1 piece skid
 
Yeah, we are just talking about a skid that has the trans mounted to it vs one that does not.
 
I could tell that I didnt like this car being lightly loaded on the knuckle weight. I had to get more on but I didnt want as much as my 2.2 so I made a "budget" version.




6 .8oz total with this new setup including the now half cut brass knuckle. I have been driving it for a bit and I am loving it. If it had clod stall and dig, it would climb as good as my Berg, for sure. I also did 1.6oz of rear weight, way down low but I dont have pics right now, sorry.

 
Thanks man!

They seem to be perfect for a car that does not want to be super heavy or spend as much money as the brass is.
 
Time for a bit of updating on this thing.

Ever since I went to the Loaded dice weight setup I had to make some compromises to make everything work. First was a wider wheel to fit the weights inside. I actually like the wider wheel but the problem came when the tire would now rub the steering links. I was already running a NON zero ackerman and in order to fit the wider wheel/tire, I had to bring the steering arm holes in even further which made me realize that I like a true zero ackerman or really close to it. With the steering arms I had to make for this, it really hurt my steering and turning radius so, I put some hub spacers on, put the original arms back on, and now I am too wide and also dont have the ackerman I am looking for. :roll:

So, I want to make some changes to get back to zero ackerman (or close to it) and I also want to be a bit narrower. I am shooting for 10.5" with Rovers. This front axle should turn out pretty cool and I am expecting it to be an even bigger deal in many other ways....

Big progress today. :mrgreen:

 
Thank goodness you have the right guy for the job working on it or it'll never work:ror:
 
such a nice build. looks great and congratz

i just bought my first crawler and its a ax10 scorpion and i plan on converting it to a sportsman. any first timer advice other the get out the bank card :)
 
Last edited:
Been over two months. What's the hold up ❓‼️

Another company :mrgreen:

Axle has been 90% done for a long time. Just waiting on more parts that have been on serious back order. Its cool though, been working on other cool things that should be out soon (Sorry, MOA only).

any first timer advice other the get out the bank card :)

My advice would be to drive it and focus on durability rather than performance at first. In the beginning, you will be holding the car back and once your skill improve, then focus on performance as the car will most likely be holding you back. Above all, make sure you keep it fun, whatever that includes.
 
First, I took the VP Currie center section and wanted to make some small changes. First the Currie center is a decent amount bigger than stock so I wanted to shave all I could off the bottom for better clearance.

Stock 2.128"



Shaved 1.978".



Total of .150" off the bottom is pretty good! In fact, better than a stock AR60 housing!





Next was the pinion bearing. Stock is 11mm, I went to 13mm. This is a must IMO to upgrade this for long bearing life and also so your gears will last.

 
Last edited:
Back
Top