Evolution of my CR01

[low_range]

Upgrades!


I havent posted in a while, been spending my time working on the 1:1s instead, but since i had some downtime i had to get back to this and get it back to 100%

Some time back i snapped a stub up front, and it actually pushed the upright block right off the housing, cracked it, and stripped the hole out in the axle housing.

You can see the upright is pushed off the housing slghtly. What happens is when the tire goes to full turn the pin pops out, gets behind the stub, and then pushes the whole assembly off the housing. So i knew a permanent fix was required.


Thats where this comes in:

GPM's AL axle housing. Ive heard Integy's doesnt fit all that well, so i opted for this one instead. Picked it up off ebay for $53 so not a bad price, and the fit is perfect. Only thing i had to do differently than my plastic housing was stuff a second shim behind the pinion to shim it deeper, but i hardly call that a defect, just a minor difference in the housing. Everything else fits in there nice & tight, and it comes with all new screws to bolt the housing together, and to re-attach the uprights.

I also figured while i was apart, to get some other AL parts too.

The prices on the bags are misleading, the uprights are only $6.39 and the steering blocks are only $5.39 :shock: The steering blocks come with new sealed bearings as well. You cant beat those prices! I ordered 2 packs of each, and swapped out the parts on the rear axle too.

So now im back in action, and ready to roll!

It seemed like a good idea, so i greased my kingpins when i reinstalled them. Theyre metal-to-metal now, so it seemed like a good idea to keep them from wearing out too quickly. Ran it around on the rock pile a bit and everything seems fine, so hopefully thats the last of my problems.

 

[vipxj]

Watch the integy alloy uprights,ive actually bent and broken them when the drive pin popped out of the drive cup,and pulled the screws out of the plastic axles.
AXIAL axles is the best upgrade for a CR01.

 

[low_range]

Thats how i broke my plastic one, but im not expecting that to happen with the alloy housing, gonna be pretty hard to pull those screws out! I dont run it as hard, or as often as i used to though, so im sure itll last for a while atleast.

I agree the Axial axles are better, but i just dont want to stick a set in here. Long term im gonna build another 2.2, and that one will be axial based.

 

[DRW-FJ40]

Nice, It'll be good to see how those hold up. Looks like a nice setup for the money.

 

[low_range]

Thats what i thought- theyre crazy cheap, and they dont flex like the plastic stuff. Hopefully they hold up well. Time will tell!

 

[DRW-FJ40]

are those the short barrel springs on there?

 

[low_range]

Yeah, hard rear medium front. Been runnin em for a long time now, and i can tell you they get softer with age. Even my swaybars (both hard) arent as stiff as they used to be.

 

[DRW-FJ40]

how do you like the barrel springs vs. the stock springs? Winter plans for my CR01 are to put bent links on there I got in an ebay trade, shorten the wheelbase to match the FJ40 body better & I was thinking of putting the barrel springs on. Also looking at options to improve the turning radius. the shorten wheel base should help some.

 

[low_range]

Doing the BTA steering up front helps the turning radius alot. Turn it to full lock- the outer tire is turned tighter, when its the inner tire thats supposed to be tighter. Switching the tierod behind the axle fixes that. Even with my wheelbase stretched, it turns a bit tigher than my brother's with stock steering.

I made my bent links, but its the same principle. As for the barrel springs, the fact that theyre shorter is what helps the most. Anything to lower the COG is a good thing. The progressive rate helps, but IMO its the lower stance that makes the biggest difference. I dont care about draging the belly a bit, thats what the skidplate is for.