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GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

Yes i did, i don't usually post questions if i haven't searched before;-), i have done that procedure and no go, get the same message.

Edit: I broke the board in two but i was getting the same error before i did it btw.

Are you sure your solder joints are good, cable is installed in the proper orientation, and on all 4 pins, did you restart your computer after installing stvp.

What OS are you running. x32 or x64?
 
Are you sure your solder joints are good, cable is installed in the proper orientation, and on all 4 pins, did you restart your computer after installing stvp.

What OS are you running. x32 or x64?
I will recheck my solder points on the radio, cable is installed correctly, although i will check if it's not broken at some point(it does happen once in a while) i am running vista ultimate 32bit
 
why'd you decide to break the board? Only conflict the other half can cause is SWIM conflict. The error your posting is usually because of the connection either virtually or physically.
 
why'd you decide to break the board? Only conflict the other half can cause is SWIM conflict. The error your posting is usually because of the connection either virtually or physically.

Yes i did, i don't usually post questions if i haven't searched before;-), i have done that procedure and no go, get the same message.

Edit: I broke the board in two but i was getting the same error before i did it btw.
Had the same problem from the get go, before it did the radio did the beeping and got the same problem.
 
Losikid, recently bought a hacked GTB3 from ya and you are not kidding about the short batt life, I should have had you put the VR in their from the start. You said it would be smart if running a 3s lipo to have the VR, but if max output is only 11.1v then whats the difference? Whats the advantage of running the VR with a 3s lipo besides longer run time?
 
Losikid, recently bought a hacked GTB3 from ya and you are not kidding about the short batt life, I should have had you put the VR in their from the start. You said it would be smart if running a 3s lipo to have the VR, but if max output is only 11.1v then whats the difference? Whats the advantage of running the VR with a 3s lipo besides longer run time?

actually 11.1 volts is nominal 3s lipo. Radio will actually see 4.2V x3 at full charge. So 12.6 volts. This is ok but the stock voltage regulator will get extremely hot. and will have a premature failure, possibly could cause a short and destroy the radio. (scary eh :ror: )...but it also runs hot with AA's

What the vr mod simply replaces the VR with a more efficient voltage regulator. The new vr is a switching regulator, so there almost no heat loss so a very nice efficiency increase. You'll see about a 50% longer run time. It also allows for voltages as low as 6.5 volts. So you can get away with a 2s lipo.

Lipo's are more of a convience factor than anything. It makes the radio lighter, and you can probably run the same packs you do in your crawler as you do in your radio. So no need to worry about charging an assortment of batteries. Plus it gives room in the battery compartment for some spare tools/parts for quick on course repairs.
 
When I ordered my hacked radio from you, I noticed the option to have the lipo installed was not available, are there instructions in this thread on how to install it?

A.D.
 
When I ordered my hacked radio from you, I noticed the option to have the lipo installed was not available, are there instructions in this thread on how to install it?

A.D.

Take out the battery tray, install a deans on its leads, and plug in a lipo...have to have the vr mod if you want to run 2s.
 
I did the screen fim mod. Its a great improvement. was able to remove the film with a fingernail and just peel it off. its pretty thick plastic. about the thickness of those colored plastic business cards if you have ever seen one of those. a couple of improvements to the mod are to cut the film on 2 sides to fit the side of the inside of the cover glassbefore installing it, Or carefully pop the cover glass out and install the film full size. i put it in and then used a razor blade but its still pulling away a bit at the edges. not noticable with the backlight on. a couple of minor bubbles but nothing that interferes with seeing the screen. really only visable at an angle. Also do it somewhere dust free, I got a small hair on mine and had to peel it of to remove that. definitely an easy, worthwhile mod.
EDIT: here is the pics after the mod with backlight off and on, screen is lit bu 50 watt halogen desk light in both pics. the sceen looks a bit more white than the bluish tint shown in the pic with backlight on.
Backlight ON
2011-12-02%2B18.06.33.jpg

Backlight OFF
2011-12-02%2B18.05.48.jpg



<!--?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /--><o:p>Ok so I finally got back to my LED screen blink issue and added a resistor which stopped the screen from blinking. <o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
Tonight I shaved the power button so it was flush with the case so I didn't inadvertently hit it anymore. <o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
I chickened out on the polarization film flip mod though..... I want to do it but I'm afraid I'll tear it trying to remove it. Has anyone done it? Losikid what do you think about it?<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
</o:p>
 
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I did the screen fim mod. Its a great improvement. was able to remove the film with a fingernail and just peel it off. its pretty thick plastic. about the thickness of those colored plastic business cards if you have ever seen one of those. a couple of improvements to the mod are to cut the film on 2 sides to fit the side of the inside of the cover glassbefore installing it, Or carefully pop the cover glass out and install the film full size. i put it in and then used a razor blade but its still pulling away a bit at the edges. not noticable with the backlight on. a couple of minor bubbles but nothing that interferes with seeing the screen. really only visable at an angle. Also do it somewhere dust free, I got a small hair on mine and had to peel it of to remove that. definitely an easy, worthwhile mod.

Sorry, but what is the purpose of this mod?
 
Hey losi kid i have a couple questions on the run time of the tx. I am getting one and am trying to gauge which options to get.

battery life:

stock-?

stock with vr-?

stock w/ lipo-?

vr and lipo-?

thanks so much!"thumbsup"
 
Hey losi kid i have a couple questions on the run time of the tx. I am getting one and am trying to gauge which options to get.

battery life:

stock-?

stock with vr-?

stock w/ lipo-?

vr and lipo-?

thanks so much!"thumbsup"

I've never ran my my batteries staight dead. But


running a stock vr with backlight off, the current drain is ~110ma with the new VR its going to be ~60ma

Right now with backlight on, the current drain is ~130ma and the new VR will be ~75ma

Testing was done at 11.4V,
 
It changes the polarization. so you now have black lettering against a whitish background.

Supposed to be easier to read in sunlight,


I added a couple of pics of what it looks like after the screen mod to my original post"thumbsup"
 
Just did inventory count, I'm OUT of fw kits again :shock:

But if all goes as planned, i'll be shipping probably on the 12th or 13th

All current orders will go out
 
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