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Have tech questions? Will answer.

I want creepy crawly throttle. I like slow speed technical crawling. I have a 6lb toyzuki V2 running overdrive to front axle. I picked up a new TEKIN FXR esc. I'm running a 3s battery and have the stock scx10:2 kit pinion and spur gear. I'm not sure what my crawl ratio is with the V2 chassis setup but id like to know. I've always ran tekin 45t pro motor but she is worn out and ill rebuild it to be a backup motor. What brushed motor should I go with for my setup and my driving style.
If that's a 540 motor, why not try a 550 size in 21t or 27t? IIRC 21t 550 is around the speed of a 35t 540. And for smoothness go with Holmes.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
If that's a 540 motor, why not try a 550 size in 21t or 27t? IIRC 21t 550 is around the speed of a 35t 540. And for smoothness go with Holmes.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk


this is the feedback I'm looking for. my 540 45t tekin was a great motor but she would get HOT !! so im looking for similar creepy crawly performance but an upgrade so this is the input I need. so a holmes 550 size can would fit in the toyzuki V2 chassis
 
this is the feedback I'm looking for. my 540 45t tekin was a great motor but she would get HOT !! so im looking for similar creepy crawly performance but an upgrade so this is the input I need. so a holmes 550 size can would fit in the toyzuki V2 chassis
measure 10mm from the endbell of your existing 540 motor, if you have clearance a 550 should fit.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
I'm trying to do fine tuning on my wraith and having some issues I have
Momba Master pro ESC
Tekin ROC 412 3100kv
Steering servo JR racing 9100HVT
Hey OK winch controller with winch
Spetrum SR410
CC BEC
2s 3800mih


The rig drives nice all functions work well except.
When I make hard right turns it releases the drag brake and drives in reverse, When I turn full left it releases the drag brake and drives forward.

The rig does not go fast when this happens. the way I noticed it wanted to go forward or reverse when turning was by holding it in the air.
Any advise would be helpful.
 
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this is the feedback I'm looking for. my 540 45t tekin was a great motor but she would get HOT !! so im looking for similar creepy crawly performance but an upgrade so this is the input I need. so a holmes 550 size can would fit in the toyzuki V2 chassis

If your 45t is getting hot on 3s and you don't have any binding in the drive train your gear ratio is too low. Get a smaller pinion or bigger spur or both.
 
I'm trying to do fine tuning on my wraith and having some issues I have
Momba Master pro ESC
Tekin ROC 412 3100kv
Steering servo JR racing 9100HVT
Hey OK winch controller with winch
Spetrum SR410
CC BEC


The rig drives nice all functions work well except.
When I make hard right turns it releases the drag brake and drives in reverse, When I turn full left it releases the drag brake and drives forward.

The rig does not go fast when this happens. the way I noticed it wanted to go forward or reverse when turning was by holding it in the air.
Any advise would be helpful.

Spektrum has some race functions like avc you might want to turn off.
 
If your 45t is getting hot on 3s and you don't have any binding in the drive train your gear ratio is too low. Get a smaller pinion or bigger spur or both.


whats the smallest pinion and biggest spur I can fit with the scx10ii

edit: just occurred to me. I need to change the pitch.... that's how I can run a super small pinion and similar overall size spur gear. any recommendations.
 
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whats the smallest pinion and biggest spur I can fit with the scx10ii

edit: just occurred to me. I need to change the pitch.... that's how I can run a super small pinion and similar overall size spur gear. any recommendations.

96t 48p spur with a 9t 48p pinion on an ax10 transmission. Or 68t 32p spur and 9t 32p pinion. 9t pinions make more noise FYI.

These gear ratios slow the vehicle down so perhaps use my handy gearing chart to find a gear ratio you prefer
 
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Voodoo killing it in here faster than I can respond, lol! I've got nothing to add more than has already been said.

I have a TRX4 running the TGH 30% overdrive tranny and it does make a Custom Pro 13xx 540 run warm, but not actually hot. Might depend on driving and terrain as well. A 550 is a good choice if a few extra ounces are OK, they really drive nice. The 27t 550 Torquemaster or the 12t 550 Crawlmaster would be my choice. I tend to lean crawlmaster.
 
I got some feedback that 32p gears are inherently stronger so I decided to get 32p 9t pinion and a 32p 64t spur gear. I'm hoping this will take a little strain off the motor from the original gearing I had 15t pinion and 56t spur "thumbsup" hoping if not my next move will be that 550 crawlmaster beast
 
I got some feedback that 32p gears are inherently stronger so I decided to get 32p 9t pinion and a 32p 64t spur gear. I'm hoping this will take a little strain off the motor from the original gearing I had 15t pinion and 56t spur "thumbsup" hoping if not my next move will be that 550 crawlmaster beast

Wait is those going in an scx10 II or a toyzuki? I am not sure of the clearances on a toyzuki, but the 64t spur 9t pinion and 56t spur 15t pinion combo are bot about 30mm from shaft to shaft. you should be good as long as the spur doesn't hit anything else.

any ways the new gear ratio you have chosen is double what your old gear ratio is so your truck will be half as fast on the same motor with double the torque, if you want the speed back you can get a lower turn motor and you will still have plenty of creepy crawlyness, torque and a cool motor IMO. and ash holms said the 550 motors are great, I would go with the faster 10t crawlmaster or the 21t torquemaster or 21t trailmaster myself though.
 
Wait is those going in an scx10 II or a toyzuki? I am not sure of the clearances on a toyzuki, but the 64t spur 9t pinion and 56t spur 15t pinion combo are bot about 30mm from shaft to shaft. you should be good as long as the spur doesn't hit anything else.

any ways the new gear ratio you have chosen is double what your old gear ratio is so your truck will be half as fast on the same motor with double the torque, if you want the speed back you can get a lower turn motor and you will still have plenty of creepy crawlyness, torque and a cool motor IMO. and ash holms said the 550 motors are great, I would go with the faster 10t crawlmaster or the 21t torquemaster or 21t trailmaster myself though.

I'm going to a 35t from a 45t and I think with running the gears flipped like the V2 chassis I'm losing that reduction number actually sooo..

the transfer case is 20/26 vs 26/20 making that number .769

So previously with the 45t that got hot as hell I was running: 21.51:1 terrible
56/15 spur and pinion
36/18 trans
20/26 t case
30/8 axles

FDR bone stock scx10ii kit version 36.36:1

FDR with V2 chassis stock 15t pinion and 56t spur with overdrive = 21.51:1

FDR with v2 chassis stock 15t pinion and 56t spur no overdrive = 36.36:1

FDR with V2 chassis 9t pinion and 64t spur with overdrive = 41:1

FDR with v2 chassis 9t pinion 64t spur no overdrive = 69.32:1
 
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I'm running in my yeti a puller pro R 540-L powered by a Monster X on 3s, in the description i found these specs:
Twelve slot stator, 180C resin impregnated copper windings
180C rated high strength neodymium magnets

so should i set the motor temp cut off to 180° ?
And which gearing would be recommended for U4 racing style driving using a 64T Spur and 2-speed trans?
 
I'm running in my yeti a puller pro R 540-L powered by a Monster X on 3s, in the description i found these specs:
Twelve slot stator, 180C resin impregnated copper windings
180C rated high strength neodymium magnets

so should i set the motor temp cut off to 180° ?
And which gearing would be recommended for U4 racing style driving using a 64T Spur and 2-speed trans?

180-190°F is the upper limit of operating temp on most brushless motors so 180° is a reasonable cutoff as long as you are setting it as Fahrenheit not Celsius.
 
I'm running in my yeti a puller pro R 540-L powered by a Monster X on 3s, in the description i found these specs:
Twelve slot stator, 180C resin impregnated copper windings
180C rated high strength neodymium magnets

so should i set the motor temp cut off to 180° ?
And which gearing would be recommended for U4 racing style driving using a 64T Spur and 2-speed trans?

No faster then you can drive.
If you find the car is too fast and uncontrollable or gets too hot, slow it down or reduce the punch.
If you don't have problems controlling it and its still cool enough speed it up.

I don't race U4, but I don't think everyone's car should be set up the same in this regard.
 
I'm running in my yeti a puller pro R 540-L powered by a Monster X on 3s, in the description i found these specs:
Twelve slot stator, 180C resin impregnated copper windings
180C rated high strength neodymium magnets

so should i set the motor temp cut off to 180° ?
And which gearing would be recommended for U4 racing style driving using a 64T Spur and 2-speed trans?


The Puller doesn't have a thermister inside. Start with slower gearing at first if you dont know the setup. 180f on the can is about right for an end of the run temp with plenty of wheelspeed. .
 
if i understand correct the puller pro haven't a thermal sensor inside, so the setting in the esc doesn't matter.
Tested 19/64 gearing, cause i used this gearing with the CC1410 3800kv. No thermal issues, max measured at the outside where 59°C approx 140°F, normally i can touch it by hand"thumbsup"

But this was crazy fast and i had some accidents with nice roll overs:) and broken rodends:mrgreen: so i went down to 16t not tested. was just curious what is used in racing u4 with this motor, will get some other pinions next time to find my sweet spot.


Appreciate your answers thx"thumbsup"
 
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