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Have tech questions? Will answer.

You are also correct that the amperage can freak out the RX. It is never a good idea to pass more than a few amps through the RX, which is why I make the bypass adapter. It basically gives a parallel path for the BEC to power the servo around the RX. The way it is wired, it also allows a higher BEC voltage than the RX can handle, since it only has common ground on the harness. There has to be something powering the RX, like an internal bec of a ESC, and then an external BEC powering the servo through the bypass adapter.
 
You are also correct that the amperage can freak out the RX. It is never a good idea to pass more than a few amps through the RX, which is why I make the bypass adapter. It basically gives a parallel path for the BEC to power the servo around the RX. The way it is wired, it also allows a higher BEC voltage than the RX can handle, since it only has common ground on the harness. There has to be something powering the RX, like an internal bec of a ESC, and then an external BEC powering the servo through the bypass adapter.



cbc5487ed7da1b1123d87da596625799.jpg

A nobrainer for me. All rigs have one as I won’t cut that red wire.



Hang up and Drive
 
Recently picked up your 550 27t and 21t motors.

I would think these are 3s capable but would like to confirm?

Also, the only experience I have with a 550 motor is the Traxxas 12t, how would these motors compare to the Titan 12t and say Axial 27t 540 cans?

Apologies if this has been asked before but my google searches did not show any results that included this thread.

Thanks
 
You are also correct that the amperage can freak out the RX. It is never a good idea to pass more than a few amps through the RX, which is why I make the bypass adapter. It basically gives a parallel path for the BEC to power the servo around the RX. The way it is wired, it also allows a higher BEC voltage than the RX can handle, since it only has common ground on the harness. There has to be something powering the RX, like an internal bec of a ESC, and then an external BEC powering the servo through the bypass adapter.


Thank you Jon , I’ll have to have a look into that little gem [emoji106]
What would be the purpose of these internal bec’s if it’s limited by the rx then ?


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Recently picked up your 550 27t and 21t motors.

I would think these are 3s capable but would like to confirm?

Also, the only experience I have with a 550 motor is the Traxxas 12t, how would these motors compare to the Titan 12t and say Axial 27t 540 cans?

Apologies if this has been asked before but my google searches did not show any results that included this thread.

Thanks
The 550 21T is about the same as the 27T 540 and the 27T 550 is about the same as 35T 540.

They both take 3s easily

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Thank you Jon , I’ll have to have a look into that little gem [emoji106]
What would be the purpose of these internal bec’s if it’s limited by the rx then ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The only sectors where the RX is a choke point for servo power is 3d heli's and crawlers. 95% of the market never sees this issue, so the majority of the market doesn't even worry about it.

The 550 21T is about the same as the 27T 540 and the 27T 550 is about the same as 35T 540.

They both take 3s easily

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yep!!
 
Thanks guys,

Thats speed wise I take it? I know the 550s have more bottom end grunt torque than the 540s.

Thinking about putting the 21t in an SCX10.2 and the 27t in the Wraith to help with the taller tires--the 540 27t just doesnt have the cojones for the larger 2.2s even after gearing change on the spur and pinion
 
Thanks guys,

Thats speed wise I take it? I know the 550s have more bottom end grunt torque than the 540s.

Thinking about putting the 21t in an SCX10.2 and the 27t in the Wraith to help with the taller tires--the 540 27t just doesnt have the cojones for the larger 2.2s even after gearing change on the spur and pinion
If it can help you, I'm using a 550 21T in my Bomber with 5.8inch tires (MT/R) on 3s with a 10T pinion 64T spur
It's about perfect for brushed

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Hey mate,

Been out of the sport (eletric r/c) for 25 odd years, rock crawlers weren't around.
Looking at the sites like yours might as well be looking at another language. Motor turns, degree's, clockwise or counter clockwise, bec's etc I'm just so confused.
I've ordered a SCX 10 II chassis kit and intend to build from there as I've never like RTR kits but i need to get a handle on the eletrics before i go to far.
Any help well be very much appreciated

Cheers Ian

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Hey mate,

Been out of the sport (eletric r/c) for 25 odd years, rock crawlers weren't around.
Looking at the sites like yours might as well be looking at another language. Motor turns, degree's, clockwise or counter clockwise, bec's etc I'm just so confused.
I've ordered a SCX 10 II chassis kit and intend to build from there as I've never like RTR kits but i need to get a handle on the eletrics before i go to far.
Any help well be very much appreciated

Cheers Ian

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk

It would be helpful if you could specify what tires size you plan to run, what terrain you plan to run on, as well as what Voltage and ESC you plan to use.

This would help significantly in determining what would be best for you application.
 
Hey mate,

Been out of the sport (eletric r/c) for 25 odd years, rock crawlers weren't around.
Looking at the sites like yours might as well be looking at another language. Motor turns, degree's, clockwise or counter clockwise, bec's etc I'm just so confused.
I've ordered a SCX 10 II chassis kit and intend to build from there as I've never like RTR kits but i need to get a handle on the eletrics before i go to far.
Any help well be very much appreciated

Cheers Ian

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk
Probably safe to plan on a even mix of fire trails rocky banks when i can find them, as for tyre size and anything eletricals I'm open to all suggestions as i only have chassis on order to date.

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Brushed ($) or brushless ($$$) is a good place to start drawing a budget line

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Brushed ($) or brushless ($$$) is a good place to start drawing a budget line

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Personaly if im going brushed, and I usualy am I see no reason in spending more then 20$ for the trailmaster sport 550
and $40 for the hobywing quickrun 1080
$60 and its very capable with good startup and torque

I would not recomend sensorless brushless only the HH revolver would be an option IMO with a sidewinder 4 for $140. This high torque combo I would only use when gearing down isnt an option, and gearing down is almost alwayse an option (the only exceptions I have run across is moa rigs and the TRX-4(and I haven't exhausted my efforts on the trx4))

For sensored brushless I woulden't spend more then $280 which is a puller pro and Mamba X

and since this brushless setup is 4.7 times more expensive then the very capable brushed setup I recommended I only have the one setup and don't plan on getting another. the performance vs value is not that grate vs brushed for crawling. If you want more speed then perhaps its the way to go. with a taller gear ratio it has more torque for better crawling, but my crawlers don't go over 7mph. If I wanted my crawler to go 15mph, then I would use a brusless all the way.

Cheaper brushless motors don't seem to have the low end control I demand from a crawler. Cheaper ESC's don't meet the feature requirements. to be fair, I haven't tried the Trailmaster pro on a castle micro mamba x, for about half the price, its probably a better value vs performance.

(edit: lol oh I thought you were asking a question, and I thought this was an odd question from you, guess I need to learn to read. anyways, I expanded on your answer :P )
 
Last edited:
Hey mate,

Been out of the sport (eletric r/c) for 25 odd years, rock crawlers weren't around.
Looking at the sites like yours might as well be looking at another language. Motor turns, degree's, clockwise or counter clockwise, bec's etc I'm just so confused.
I've ordered a SCX 10 II chassis kit and intend to build from there as I've never like RTR kits but i need to get a handle on the eletrics before i go to far.
Any help well be very much appreciated

Cheers Ian

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk

I would recomend the trailmaster 21t 550 brushed motor, It requires cutting off the corner of the battery tray for the motor to fit but its worth it for the extra torque. So you need to get a slightly shorter battery.

The smc True Spec Premium 11.1V 4500mAh 85Amps/90C will still fit it think, but it probably touches the motor which isn't great. Try to find a battery under 130mm long.

For the esc a hobbywing wp quickrun 1080 is $40 and very good.

For a simple radio I like the DX5C for $120 stock scx10 tactic ttx300 radio aren't bad and can be bought on ebay for $30 if you want to budget more. I prefer the spextrum dx5 pro but at $250 you haven't given me a reason to recommend its extra features.

For the servo on an scx10 Power HD LW-20MG as a budget option isn't bad for $23 (don't get the 23Kg version), but I usualy shell out $120 for the SHV500V2 SERVO from holmes hobbies and its worth it.

I would also install a robinson racing 9t pinion, an aluminum front shock hoops as the plastic upper panhard never lasts for me. I also add a hefty amount of stick on wheel weights in my tires (one full wrap minimum often 2 in the front).
 
I understand that the RX won't handle the current of the servo but why can't you integrate the BEC into the ESC and have a direct connection to the servo and the signal wire to the RX. This would eliminate the need to buy an BEC. As to keping the price point, that's a dumb reason. Nothing I hate more then having to get 1 component only to find I need to buy another to make the first thing I bought work. A sidewinder 4 is $80 bucks and the BEC is $30 ish. I'd rather pay $110 and be done. It's one less thing I need to deal with.

On the topic of components why don't they include little tabs for zip ties.
 
I understand that the RX won't handle the current of the servo but why can't you integrate the BEC into the ESC and have a direct connection to the servo and the signal wire to the RX. This would eliminate the need to buy an BEC. As to keping the price point, that's a dumb reason. Nothing I hate more then having to get 1 component only to find I need to buy another to make the first thing I bought work. A sidewinder 4 is $80 bucks and the BEC is $30 ish. I'd rather pay $110 and be done. It's one less thing I need to deal with.

On the topic of components why don't they include little tabs for zip ties.

That's exactly what the SHV500v2 holmes hobby servo does.
 
Well look at that. Cool. Not sure how that servo ties into the battery as I don't recognize the plug as anything I have on my batteries. Maybe there is a adapter?
 
Well look at that. Cool. Not sure how that servo ties into the battery as I don't recognize the plug as anything I have on my batteries. Maybe there is a adapter?
You need a JST connector spliced into your ESC power wire.
The connector comes with the servo if you can solder yourself.
Look at my picture, I run 2 wires off my ESC power plug, 1 for lights on 12v and 1 for the servo on 12v
6860a7939c764c8e57e2982b951e1ef7.jpg


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