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How to drill Carbon Fiber

Joined
Apr 18, 2021
Messages
21
Location
Budaors
I have never worked with CF before. Are there any tricks / gotchas drilling a 3mm hole using a hand drill and HSS drill bits I have lying around? I have no drill press, unfortunately. Thanks!
 
I'm not a pro but I would mask up and clean up thoroughly after drilling as carbon fiber dust is just nasty stuff. Place a block of wood on the back side to avoid blowing out the hole, hold it tight or clamp it if you can.

I'll also use the tip of a skewer or a nail to apply some CA to the hole in order to hold it together. The holes tend to end up a little bit frayed and the glue should help hold it together.

I also prefer to make a jig for drilling in the right spot since you only get one go at it.
 
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Latex gloves (or the like), a Vacuum, painters tape, clamp, steady hand, pilot hole first, final size, then Superglue.

Assuming it’s for a chassis, but Is it flat plate or round stock?
 
As mentioned, CF dust is EXTREMELY nasty. ONLY do this in a VERY well-ventilated area, and wear a mask (not a regular painters face covering, but a quality mask that filters out just about everything.

As for the drilling, itself, wherever the CF is to be drilled, cover both sides with tape (masking, painters, or something similar). This will help prevent the pieces from fraying/cracking. And, I'm sure I don't need to say this, but I will - GO SLOW!!! Drill too fast, and even that tape won't prevent the pieces from cracking.

Finally, as also previously-mentioned, seal the edges with CA. This is something that should always be done with CF parts. I've built two TC chassis with mostly CF parts, and I sealed every friggin' part with CA. The CF parts installed on my Sledge were, thankfully, already sealed, so that saved some time...but, the new Rlaarlo AK-917 I just received has a CF chassis, shock towers, and a few other CF parts, all of which need to be sealed.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
 
When you drill CF, it's easy to have the other side fragment out when the bit eventually pops through the back. To make a clean hole, what I do is do a pilot hole with a very small drill bit. Then start on one side with the larger bit but don't go all the way through. Then reverse the piece and drill the other side, using the pilot hole. If you have access to a drill press, definitely use it. Much easier to control the bit depth to stop is shy of drilling all the way through. Plus you can see your progress better with a drill press.

....And, take all the advise above about a wearing a mask. Those CF particles are like luggage and they stay with you (in your lungs) forever.
 
Another method for helping to prevent splintering and blowout is to use a chamfer/countersink bit on both sides just a slight c-hair larger than the drill diameter, then drill the hole using the usual precautions like tape and a backing piece of wood.. It will result in much cleaner holes.
 
With a drill and drill bit. heh

Dont drill fast, keep it slow as to not kick around the dust. maybe spray lightly with water or wd40 to help contain the dust. then brush it off into the trash or into a bag then into the trash.
 
FYI it drills very easily like a hardwood at first but once going it goes easy, so a slow speed and sharp bit works a treat.
 
As mentioned, CF dust is EXTREMELY nasty. ONLY do this in a VERY well-ventilated area, and wear a mask (not a regular painters face covering, but a quality mask that filters out just about everything.

As for the drilling, itself, wherever the CF is to be drilled, cover both sides with tape (masking, painters, or something similar). This will help prevent the pieces from fraying/cracking. And, I'm sure I don't need to say this, but I will - GO SLOW!!! Drill too fast, and even that tape won't prevent the pieces from cracking.

Finally, as also previously-mentioned, seal the edges with CA. This is something that should always be done with CF parts. I've built two TC chassis with mostly CF parts, and I sealed every friggin' part with CA. The CF parts installed on my Sledge were, thankfully, already sealed, so that saved some time...but, the new Rlaarlo AK-917 I just received has a CF chassis, shock towers, and a few other CF parts, all of which need to be sealed.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place


Like that! But use a good mask, not a pLandemic mask, avoid blowing the CF dust around. All CF and fiberglass parts should be sealed at drilled holes and around all cut/machined edges with CA when done.


FYI it drills very easily like a hardwood at first but once going it goes easy, so a slow speed and sharp bit works a treat.


Yes, good sharp bit and SLOW speed. Do NOT lube with any type of oil as that's not good for the CF.
 
Yes, good sharp bit and SLOW speed. Do NOT lube with any type of oil as that's not good for the CF.

Good to know. The "sharp bit" I already knew, and the "do not lube" I suspected...but, the "SLOW speed", that I wasn't aware of. Thank you. Any recommended RPM range?


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
 
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