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Jeremy's Sporty

JeremyH said:
Yes, but I absolutely HATE having the tie rod down low. I dont like it on my XR and it's even worse on the sporty because it would need to sit below the driveshaft.
Click to expand...

The tie rod doesn't have to be down low...

IMAG1684.jpg


Click this link for more pics... http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axia...il-crawler-designs-chassis-4.html#post3860158
 
Well, I needed to get rid of the slop in the front end of this truck, so I decided to install the VP locker. Since I was doing this, I figured I'd just rebuild the entire axle...new housing and some of the new Creation Fab Premium tubes. I must say, these tubes are NICE! MUCH easier to install than the previous version and very little room for user error.

When I had the axle apart, I realized that I was running the stock ratio gears. :shock: Luckily I had purchased a "spare" set of front gears so I got them mounted up to the VP locker and put everything back together.

P1060485.jpg

P1060488.jpg

P1060487.jpg
 
Seems like you and I were thinking the same thing at the same time. I just picked up VP lockers, a new axle housing and premium tubes. Ive been debating on getting the Vanquish axles but not sure if I can bring myself to spend the money!
 
aclark09 said:
Seems like you and I were thinking the same thing at the same time. I just picked up VP lockers, a new axle housing and premium tubes. Ive been debating on getting the Vanquish axles but not sure if I can bring myself to spend the money!
Click to expand...

Very cool! The stock axles will work for a while, but they will get sloppy and, if you are like me, it will piss you off. "thumbsup"
 
Changes look good. I bet it will perform really nice with those lockers and vp shafts in there... I think that may have to be my next upgrade:twisted:
 
Thanks! Yeah, hopefully with the proper gears in the front this truck pulls a bit more and turns a little better (although I didnt notice much difference from trucks with a similar setup in our club).
 
JeremyH said:
Well, I needed to get rid of the slop in the front end of this truck, so I decided to install the VP locker. Since I was doing this, I figured I'd just rebuild the entire axle...new housing and some of the new Creation Fab Premium tubes. I must say, these tubes are NICE! MUCH easier to install than the previous version and very little room for user error.
Click to expand...

This is just perfect! I have the same parts on order and really appreciate the insight into how they are assembled and expected to perform. Even the responses from ittybitty and michael help a lot. A big thanks again. Now on to the questions.

I know this will become clear once I have the parts in hand, but for now I'm curious about the delrin tube install. The tubes both widen and strengthen the axle housings. Once the stock housings are shaved down and the internals are dremeled out for clearance, then additional screws are added to secure the tubes to the housing. I see two out at the end, maybe two on top of the axle and potentially two near the gear set, depending on the build. I'm assuming these screws are actually threaded into the tube itself rather than clamping the housing together. Any preference on location or number? Should I use a tap to create the threads or shoulld I use the screw to form the threads for a tighter fit?

Now on to the caster adjustment. I see the chub has slotted screw holes, but the tubes and chubs are splined. Unless I can pull the chub off the tube and move it one spline tooth over and resecure it then I would be setting the caster when I secure the tubes to the axle housings. If I want to run the tie rod high and across the front, I'm really setting the caster for the tie rod clearance rather than for any particular suspension setting.

My last little challenge is ordering the correct hub spacing for the vanquish rims to allow clearance to the steering arm and room for the knuckle weights. I gather the greater the spacing, the more weights will fit and I should watch that my outside to outside width doesn't exceed 10.5" or so. Any thoughts on these trade-offs would be appreciated. Thanks!"thumbsup"
 
Oh yaaay...you just made your rig that much harder to beat come October :cry:

Oh well.

As usual...no frills, no unnessecary bling....just smart improvements all the way around. Nice build brutha "thumbsup"
 
runs_wscissors said:
I know this will become clear once I have the parts in hand, but for now I'm curious about the delrin tube install. The tubes both widen and strengthen the axle housings. Once the stock housings are shaved down and the internals are dremeled out for clearance, then additional screws are added to secure the tubes to the housing. I see two out at the end, maybe two on top of the axle and potentially two near the gear set, depending on the build. I'm assuming these screws are actually threaded into the tube itself rather than clamping the housing together. Any preference on location or number? Should I use a tap to create the threads or shoulld I use the screw to form the threads for a tighter fit?
Click to expand...
Yep, with the regular tubes, you'll end up with those screws threaded through the housing and into the tube. With the premium tubes, you just use less screws. I just used CTBM's guide as to where to put the screws. I would leave out the ones on top of the housing though...

runs_wscissors said:
Now on to the caster adjustment. I see the chub has slotted screw holes, but the tubes and chubs are splined. Unless I can pull the chub off the tube and move it one spline tooth over and resecure it then I would be setting the caster when I secure the tubes to the axle housings. If I want to run the tie rod high and across the front, I'm really setting the caster for the tie rod clearance rather than for any particular suspension setting.
Click to expand...
Well, I first set the caster for what I liked.....then realized that the tie rod happened to fit there well. So, if I were you, I'd do the same. You can always run the tie rod in a different place if it doesn't fit where you'd like it to...

runs_wscissors said:
My last little challenge is ordering the correct hub spacing for the vanquish rims to allow clearance to the steering arm and room for the knuckle weights. I gather the greater the spacing, the more weights will fit and I should watch that my outside to outside width doesn't exceed 10.5" or so. Any thoughts on these trade-offs would be appreciated. Thanks!"thumbsup"
Click to expand...
Haha! That's always a challenge for me too. I have a box of hubs now that I have ordered in the past and they didnt fit. Yes, the larger the hubs, the more weights you'll fit, BUT you'll also be increasing the scrub radius. I think you'll find that 10.5" might be a bit tough to get down to on the front using this setup. IIRC, mine is like 10.75" or so. You can always order the hub spacers from Dlux to make fine adjustments in width. I also try to keep my front and rear track widths no more than 1/2" in difference. It helps keep the back end from flopping early and pulling the front end over too when on sidehills.
 
Even the rusty beat up trucks make my truck look like garbage, rig looks great jeremy i need to do an over haul on mine all my electronics burned up and its a sloppy jalopy. Been looking at your steering info and i think ill be putting a lot of it to good use.
 
Thanks man. It was good hanging out with you NY guys at Nats. That Sloppy Jalopy seems to work pretty damn well for you! "thumbsup"
 
Let's talk front drive shafts. I had some MIP units that I purchased some time ago for the AX-10 and they are way too long for the front using the GC chassis. In addition I picked up the C.I. front long output and Traxxas plastic shaft kit. I understand the new Axial pinion shafts are round rather then the older D-shaped stock units.

It appears your truck has adapters plus a super short front shaft. Since you just changed front gears do you still have to use that adapter? I'm debating if I should start shaving down the MIPs or just update everything to the C.I. setup, along with HD overdrive gears.
 
Yeah, I run Maxx shafts. I just cant stand the MIPs and how much they squeak. That adapter is made by Crawler Innovations and allows you to run the Maxx shafts.
 
runs_wscissors said:
Let's talk front drive shafts. I had some MIP units that I purchased some time ago for the AX-10 and they are way too long for the front using the GC chassis. In addition I picked up the C.I. front long output and Traxxas plastic shaft kit. I understand the new Axial pinion shafts are round rather then the older D-shaped stock units.

It appears your truck has adapters plus a super short front shaft. Since you just changed front gears do you still have to use that adapter? I'm debating if I should start shaving down the MIPs or just update everything to the C.I. setup, along with HD overdrive gears.
Click to expand...

Get yourself some wildboars there much smaller and lighter "thumbsup"
 
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