Rockcrawler
I wanna be Dave
Whats your setup?
I have mounted mine just about every way but upside down. Its never gotten hot enough to melt the double sided tape.
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Kaetwo's Tekin FX-R Review...
- Thread starter kaetwo
- Start date
Whats your setup?
I have mounted mine just about every way but upside down. Its never gotten hot enough to melt the double sided tape.
dennisuello
Newbie
FX-R, Integy 45T, Cirrus CS704MG, 8 cell split pack.
Should I go down to a 7 or 6 cell pack?
Clean both surfaces with denatured alcohol. Also a little heat to the tape before you stick it to the surface helps with adhesion.
The question and concern that I have is that the FX-R is getting hot enough to warm the sticky tape :shock:
When you drive the rig (after about 15 min of runtime), look at the ESC and check the temp lights. To do this you just let the rig sit after running and watch the lights on the ESC. How many light come on? Personally I've never had and ESC get above 3 lights, which is within a the norm.
If it gets warmer than that, then it's time to troubleshoot.
What guage wire?
What plugs do you use?
Is your motor clean and running free without any binding?
Are your brushes worn down?
What gearing are you using and tranny?
Is there any binding in the rig at all (drive lines, tranny, etc....)
Are all your solder joints clean?
I would also run a BEC. This will reduce the load on the ESC and wake the servo right up.
8)
dennisuello
Newbie
I'll check the temp lights tonight.
I'm running the wire that came with the ESC, directly soldered to the motor with about 2" lengths of wire, battery is connected with Dean's connector. Stock AX-10 ARTR tranny and axles.
I did get it in a tight spot and bound up the drivetrain for a couple seconds during that run, so maybe all the heat came from that.
minor_threat
Rock Crawler
mine too, just warm after two batts. Velcro.
For what it is worth, when I began to first run the FXR, I did so without an external BEC. During my long play sessions in the Texas heat, the speed control would get very hot, so hot that it would thermal and shut down. I put on a BEC for other reasons (more steering authority) and the ESc ran cooler ever since.
Rockcrawler
I wanna be Dave
Just get a CC BEC and I would bet that would solve all your heating problems. "thumbsup"
Most of the guys that I have talked to about overheating on the FX-R were not running a BEC. I think with the servos we run now, its just too much for them. And I mean most ESC's (sidewinder, Mamba and the FX-R's).
It definately helps with not having to power the servo too.
Randy P
Pebble Pounder
8 cells will put out a nominal 9.6v so that's working the BEC a bit already for us to drop voltage down. Add a super strong servo and you're right at the limit . That is why the unit is getting hot. Crawlers really need a seperate BEC when you're getting 'em bound up with strong servo's and voltage in that range.
dennisuello
Newbie
Added the CC BEC unit today. The FX-R appears to be running cooler. 2-3 lights on the temp indicator after driving it awhile, as opposed to 4-5 lights before BEC.
MAJ Ales
Newbie
Great review of the FX-R. I just purchased two with the 55T Pro motors for my Newage CLR-101 (Berg 2.2). My question is wiring. I have a Futaba 3PKS radio (fantastic system, although a little pricey) which allows mixing of two channels. One ESC to the front axle (channel 2)/One to the rear axle (channel 3). Steering will be channel one (of course). I will be using a Castle creations BEC to power the servo; so I will have only the signel lead coming from the receiver (I will power the servo directly with the cc bec).
So much for the background of my setup. Channel two (front axle ESC) will use all three wires (including BEC from front FX-R) to power the receiver. Channel three (rear axle ESC): I was going to remove the RED Wire, positive lead from the receiver, so that there will not be a ground loop effect from two ESC's attempting to power the same receiver. My actual question is: should i also remove the ground BLACK Wire from the rear ESC as well and only utilize the signel lead from the receiver to the rear ESC? Have I confused anyone yet?????
I will be using one LiPo 2s pack (before anyone asks). This is my first build and really don't want to destroy around 330 dollars of ESC's/Receiver.... Thanks for the help.
So much for the background of my setup. Channel two (front axle ESC) will use all three wires (including BEC from front FX-R) to power the receiver. Channel three (rear axle ESC): I was going to remove the RED Wire, positive lead from the receiver, so that there will not be a ground loop effect from two ESC's attempting to power the same receiver. My actual question is: should i also remove the ground BLACK Wire from the rear ESC as well and only utilize the signel lead from the receiver to the rear ESC? Have I confused anyone yet?????
I will be using one LiPo 2s pack (before anyone asks). This is my first build and really don't want to destroy around 330 dollars of ESC's/Receiver.... Thanks for the help.
Rockcrawler
I wanna be Dave
As long as you pull the red wire, you should be fine. Although I am thinking that even with both FXR's hooked up, you should still only see 6v because they will be ran parallel (Correct me if I am wrong).
oldhippie
I wanna be Dave
There may be a problem leaving both fxr red wires plugged in if they aren't putting out the same voltage (which they should be). But really if ya aren't running more then 6v from the bec the futaba receiver will handle it and ya can just plug the bec and servo into the receiver and unplug both red wires from the fxrs. At least that is how I'm running mine without problems. Keeps the fxrs cooler too.
Randy P
Pebble Pounder
If you're running a seperate BEC, simply remove the redwire. This will isoltae the bec's on the FXr's.
Rockcrawler
I wanna be Dave
One of them has to be hooked up. He is running the BEC directly to the servo.
MAJ Ales
Newbie
Thanks again for all the responses. Great discussion. My thought with running the Castle BEC strait to the servo is this: Most servo's can tolerate a range of voltages with a questionable upper limit (no one seems to know for sure). Being able to adjust the BEC output voltage with the "Castle Link" just seems to allow one to have one more additional level of tuning. The servo that I have selected (the new Hitec titanium gear blaa blaa blaa requires a constant current rating of around 4600mAmps to produce the 333oz/inch stated). The peak current output for the FX-R BEC is 3000mAmps. Why purchase a really strong servo if you don't give it the current it requires to perform at its peak. My other thought is resistance. Current follows the path of least resistance, so why not remove as much of it from the equation as possible. What i mean is, running the BEC through your receiver undoubtedly increases the amount of resistance that the servo sees; resistance dissipates into heat, therefor causing your entire set up to run hotter.
Just my thoughts. I welcome some additional insight.
Just my thoughts. I welcome some additional insight.
JRock
RCC Addict
I would drop down to a 6 or 7 cell pack, I have run a fxr and 35t motor without a bec and it never got hot. I would say get a small lipo pack and set the fxr for that. Depends on the gearing also. Hope this helps"thumbsup"
oldhippie
I wanna be Dave
why would anyone want to go from lipos back to Nimh?:? The bec is always a good thing with real servos, the fxr bec is pretty sad.
Rockcrawler
I wanna be Dave
I know this is old but...
I think it has more to do with the voltage and motors that were running through the speed controls now. Its not just the Tekin's, most esc's are running hotter now.
I also wanted to thank Tekin again for a great speed control. I placed 4th at Worlds this past weekend and my FX-R never glitched. "thumbsup" The drag brake works awesome! :twisted:
