Kurtus420 creeper/ax10 hybrid Frogger build

[kurtus]

I wasnt able to get much done today cuz of my foot but when I ship your Creeper Link out Ill send you a complimentary Paradox BEC Jack...one end plugs to the servo and then one end plugs to the BEC and then the single signal wire plugs into your RX..much cleaner and your steering servo gets all the power it should then just reconnect the RED wire form your ESC and have it power the Rx and Dig servo...I bet your glitching stops. Its not the rating of the Rx that is the problem...its the current draw of the Steering servo that can cause glitches when it draws high amps through the Rx.

Well damn Thomas, thats a really nice gesture there man"thumbsup". That would be absolutly awesome, I didn't want to hack into my servo leads so I was gonna try it this way but I didn't even look into a harness or realize you had such an animal. Thx again man, looking forward to getting the goods but you take all the time you need my man"thumbsup" it's all good.

 

[kurtus]

I got my xvd's yesterday but am a little dissapointed in them atm. The long shaft is perfect but the short shaft is binding to one side really bad, upon close inspection it looks like someone almost squeesed one side of the joint on the short shaft making it oblong on one side. It is slight but it makes it bind quite bad, that shaft also only came with one set screw where the long had 2. Emailed rc4wd about it and am awaiting a reply. Anyone else have these issues?

 

[kurtus]

I got a reply from Tom (racer4life), he is going to have the guys take a look at the rc4wd xvd's to see if there is a problem with the way this batch was machined. He mentioned that if I was to return the defective one they will replace it but he wont be getting back to me till mid next week after they have a chance to check the situation out. Anyways, thx Tom for taking the time to look into this"thumbsup"

 

[kurtus]

Couple updates here, first off Tom (racer4life) at rc4wd has set me another set of xvd's out free of charge to try out and see which work the best then I can return the 2 I don't want, that is awsome customer service"thumbsup"

Secondly, I got a email from paypal saying the wheels that I ordered from Don at BWD were shipped today, I was so confused because he cancelled the order 3 weeks ago and refunded my money as you can read in my rant in the first couple post...:roll:. So I emailed Don because I didn't see anymore funds coming out of paypal for this set that was shipping out today and wanted to let him know that I had to order vp wheels cause I was in a panic as always lol. Anyways, turns out Don was pulling the wheels off his personal rig and sending them out to me free of charge because he felt quite bad about the situation. Don, I owe you an apology for my ranting earlier in this post, your a stand up guy and I will support your products as long as I'm in this game.;-):ror:"thumbsup"

Lastly my servo for my xr came in so I can put the one out of it into the fogger and my slugs are drilled and tapped, can you believe it cost me $130 to get 10 slugs drilled 1/2" deep and tapped to an m3 thread, damn these are some expensive wheel wieghts

 

[jojo303d]

Couple updates here, first off Tom (racer4life) at rc4wd has set me another set of xvd's out free of charge to try out and see which work the best then I can return the 2 I don't want, that is awsome customer service"thumbsup"

Secondly, I got a email from paypal saying the wheels that I ordered from Don at BWD were shipped today, I was so confused because he cancelled the order 3 weeks ago and refunded my money as you can read in my rant in the first couple post...:roll:. So I emailed Don because I didn't see anymore funds coming out of paypal for this set that was shipping out today and wanted to let him know that I had to order vp wheels cause I was in a panic as always lol. Anyways, turns out Don was pulling the wheels off his personal rig and sending them out to me free of charge because he felt quite bad about the situation. Don, I owe you an apology for my ranting earlier in this post, your a stand up guy and I will support your products as long as I'm in this game.;-):ror:"thumbsup"

Lastly my servo for my xr came in so I can put the one out of it into the fogger and my slugs are drilled and tapped, can you believe it cost me $130 to get 10 slugs drilled 1/2" deep and tapped to an m3 thread, damn these are some expensive wheel wieghts

thats cool glad to hear things are working out for you! "thumbsup"

I used steel rod i picked up at the home depot that fit perfect in my narrowed xr wheels and cut them to length with the chop saw,, $2 for 3ft stick,,,,,now I can make all my friend wheel weights! "thumbsup"

 

[kurtus]

thats cool glad to hear things are working out for you! "thumbsup"

I used steel rod i picked up at the home depot that fit perfect in my narrowed xr wheels and cut them to length with the chop saw,, $2 for 3ft stick,,,,,now I can make all my friend wheel weights! "thumbsup"

There are easy ways to do it with the xr10 wheels, like a 5/8th alen set screw. The trouble is that I'm using aluminum billet works Vertex wheels and they don't have anykind of a mount or stopper for the slugs, Don machined some nice beadlock rings that can hold the slugs but the vp stianless steel slugs needed to be drilled and tapped to be held in place.....couldn't see any other way of making them stay in there the way the wheels are designed. I paid 1 1/2 shop labour to get it done, too bad cause if I had the tools it wouldn't have been a problem to do this myself but I was impatent and thought it wouldn't cost too much to have it done like maybe half that rather than get Don at billet works to fix me up. Oh well, hard lesson learned

 

[kurtus]

Alright guys got this thing finished up for the most part now it's tuning time, gotta get this out to a good test site but the few small tester runs I did at home shows that this thing has a ton of forward bit, gotta get that rmdw link mount soon though cause I have a bit of torque twist happening atm. I want to run a lighter rear spring setup (axial red 2.07lb/in 14x70mm), I like the way it cycles it just squats a little more than I like on the rear left shock in a bind. I think most of it will be taken care of by the plate but I may need to step up to a medium rear spring. I'm all geared towards moa's now that I forgot how much different tuning a shafty is, all good though cause I've been here a number of times before:twisted: Guess time will tell"thumbsup". Onto some pics :mrgreen:

 

[kurtus]

Here is a test video of the Frogger, there was a nice suprise for me at the end....I'll let you watch the video to see what I'm talking about"thumbsup"

http://youtu.be/GwW9M3e6Ai0

 

[Krawler Konceptz]

RIgs look great"thumbsup"

 

[kurtus]

Thx Michelle, I have been getting a boat load of really nice comments on the skins, the white and purple contrast so well together......might even get my wife interested in trying it out"thumbsup"

 

[kurtus]

Anyone have any idea why I can't embed my youtube vids in this thread???

 

[rmdesignworks]

You can only embed videos in the vid forums...in here you can only post a link

 

[kurtus]

Strange cause I was able to in my xr10 build thread??

 

[KC_JoNeS]

Very nice build Kurt. Those skins are awesome! I hope you can get your TT issues sorted. I tend to run a stiffer rear spring, as it gives me a strong rear stance. It is just something that used to work for me in my 1:1 days with my Yota. Now I do it on everything.

Casey

 

[jojo303d]

Very nice build Kurt. Those skins are awesome! I hope you can get your TT issues sorted. I tend to run a stiffer rear spring, as it gives me a strong rear stance. It is just something that used to work for me in my 1:1 days with my Yota. Now I do it on everything.

Casey

Its all about link geometry my friend you will never get rid of TT but you can reduce it to a minimum where its barley noticeable. Puting a stiffer spring on the left rear is not need its a bandaid fix not only that your suspension is all out of wack you want to be equal all the way around on the springs......kurt try to put the fwd upper links at the chassis as high as you can and at the front of the fwd axel put them on the out side of the link tabs and put a spacer between,,,,the aft upper links as low as you can at the chassis and spread the links as wide as you can on the axel before you get to parallel...... I run super soft suspension losi gold spring s and I have slim to none TT.....good luck

 

[jojo303d]

Here you can see the upoer link set up

 

[jojo303d]

Here you can see the links wide. If your links are close together that will increase your role center thus increasing your TT

 

[venomcrawlerdud]

Here you can see the upoer link set up

hey, what u doing stealing my creeper :lmao:"thumbsup". but yea im right now running losi reds which is a somewhat stiff spring but im going to go to a losi whites all around sence im now running a vulture XR "thumbsup". and the only reason i can run sucha soft spring is cus of the rmdw creeper link that fixed me rear geo on the axle with the help of mounting my rear links as low on my chassis as i could get

 

[KC_JoNeS]

Its all about link geometry my friend you will never get rid of TT but you can reduce it to a minimum where its barley noticeable. Puting a stiffer spring on the left rear is not need its a bandaid fix not only that your suspension is all out of wack you want to be equal all the way around on the springs......kurt try to put the fwd upper links at the chassis as high as you can and at the front of the fwd axel put them on the out side of the link tabs and put a spacer between,,,,the aft upper links as low as you can at the chassis and spread the links as wide as you can on the axel before you get to parallel...... I run super soft suspension losi gold spring s and I have slim to none TT.....good luck

Yes, I am aware of this....I am merely stating what works for me. I tend to run stiffer rear springs for uphill climbs. When going uphill, the weight is all on the back on the rig, and the suspension acts differently. I prefer to keep a stronger rear, and let the front move as it needs to. This setup tends to work good for my driving style.

Also, keep in mind, this chassis is designed around a 3.5" front shock, and a 4" rear. Now, if you try to match the strengths of the springs, you will find the front more stiff. I compensate by stepping up the spring rate in the rear. I have built 5 of these rigs with this chassis now, and that is just what seems to work with my testing.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled program.

Casey

 

[kurtus]

Holy, I missed all of this earlier lol. Well I know about the upper link geometry but the way I had to install my esc causes me to run my front links lower down like that and I don't think it will cause too much issue, the rear is widend up a bit but I am waiting on the paradox link mount to get the geometry back there striaght. I used to run an axial yellow spring on the rear with the ckrc silver springs on the front but I got used to a softer suspension setup on my xr and wanted to try and set the shafty up as close to soft as possible. Works not too bad at the moment but I may need to look for an fxr down the road to get the front links up higher . Do you think the front link geometry is as important as the rear? Thx guys for the replies"thumbsup"