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Mamba Monster X or Tekin RX4

I know this is an old thread but I don´t want to start another because my questions are about choosing and ESC


I am in the market for an ESC+Motor combo for my new crawler project. I think that it will be heavy 14-16 lbs, I notice that the popular Mamba X is recommended for vehicle weight Less than 9lbs/4kg

I have another rig (scx10 truggy) that weights around 17 lbs but I notice some heating issues using Holmes TrailMaster BLE Pro + Puller Pro BL (2700kV) so I don't want the same brand,

Now I am considering the TEKIN RX4 so here are my questions:

Is the RX4 ESC suitable for heavy rigs ( 14-18 lbs)?

Which motor should I choose, ROC 412 or ROC 412HD?

Do you think 2300kV will be a good option?



PLEASE SHARE YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH ELECTRONICS FOR EXTREME HEAVY RIGS
That's a pretty heavy rig for a relatively small fanless ESC. I put a Castle MMP fan on the HH BLE in my heavy (14lbs or so) rig and it stays plenty cool that way, and with deep enough gearing the fan doesn't come on too often.


I like the BLE ESCs since the switching frequency can be set so they're silent in operation.
 
That's a pretty heavy rig for a relatively small fanless ESC. I put a Castle MMP fan on the HH BLE in my heavy (14lbs or so) rig and it stays plenty cool that way, and with deep enough gearing the fan doesn't come on too often.

Hey that is a good suggestion; I will try to get that fan
 
Weight ratings have next to no impact on use in crawlers since they are so much easier on the ESC than a racer/basher. A Mamba X or RX4 would be fine in a crawler of any weight unless you plan on racing it around at full throttle all the time.

As for the motor, it comes down to how much wheelspeed you want out of the setup and how much gear reduction you have available.

Thanks I think I will get the rx4 $159.90 At RC Mart right now I cost $199.90 at amain hobbies
 
I have a Mamba Monster X thats powering a 20+ lb rig and its done its job, I've had no issues even though they only rate it for 15 lbs. though that rating is for
1/8 scale buggies, truggies and on-road vehicles, and 1/10 scale monster trucks, so a crawler would demand much less than those applications.
 
:shock::shock::shock: What in the iron-pumping-sweet-baby-Jesus are you all putting in your rigs to make them weigh that much?!

Sweet Baby Ray's in the tars and on the driver's plate! :lmao:
 
All of our weight suggestions were an attempt to put a rating on something that novices to the hobby could understand. There are so many different setups and vehicles it became very hard to specify what should be used in each type of vehicle.

Our weight ratings are for normal bashers(faster cars that spend more time at full throttle) and can be adjusted up for down for other uses. We couldn't say the Mamba X is for all 1/10th scale vehicles because Traxxas calls the E-Revo a 1/10th scale for some reason.

This is not a set official rule, but I would say this would probably work fairly well as a guideline, but this also varies depending on which motor you are using. If close to the higher end of a range, consider going up a size in ESC or watch your temperatures closely the first few runs. This is a guess based on setups I have seen on here and instagram that people are running successfully.
For bashers: Use the weight specified
For rock racers: Add 25% to the weight
For crawlers: Add 50% to the weight
For speed runners: Subtract 50% from the weight
This would make the Mamba X 9lbs for bashers, 11.25lbs for rock racers, 13.5lbs for crawlers, and 4.5lbs for speed runners.
 
Digging up this old thread. Does anybody have new input on the Mamba X vs RX4? The X has become my go to ESC, but I’m considering the RX4 for my new build.

Also, does anybody have photos of the two ESCs side by side?
 
Digging up this old thread. Does anybody have new input on the Mamba X vs RX4? The X has become my go to ESC, but I’m considering the RX4 for my new build.

Also, does anybody have photos of the two ESCs side by side?

I sold my RX-4 and went back to the Mamba X. The X spoiled me with the Aux wire feature. Being able to turn the drag brake on and off at the touch of a button is awesome. Unless Tekin has updated their firmware since the last time we had this conversation, you can not do that on the RX4 but you can make incremental adjustments on the fly from the radio if you purchase the separate cable.

I also prefer Castle's software. It just seems easier to tinker with. Tekin did have an advantage where you can change settings without a programmer using the button and watching LEDs on the ESC though.

Size wise, the footprint is pretty similar but the RX4 is a lot taller.
 
Digging up this old thread. Does anybody have new input on the Mamba X vs RX4? The X has become my go to ESC, but I’m considering the RX4 for my new build.

Also, does anybody have photos of the two ESCs side by side?


Not yet but I will have one soon, I'll try to update you after I have some time with it.

I had a really hard time not going with a Mamba X, its also my go to ESC. In the end I decided this would be an experiment just to try the RX4.



Being able to turn the drag brake on and off at the touch of a button is awesome. Unless Tekin has updated their firmware since the last time we had this conversation,


I believe they do have this feature now with V272 (firmware) https://www.teamtekin.com/adjustabledragbrake.html


It not as customizable and I think it only works in like 10% increments so It isn't as convenient. Someone asked Ty if they'll change that and I think the response was possibly down the road.
 
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I sold my RX-4 and went back to the Mamba X. The X spoiled me with the Aux wire feature. Being able to turn the drag brake on and off at the touch of a button is awesome. Unless Tekin has updated their firmware since the last time we had this conversation, you can not do that on the RX4 but you can make incremental adjustments on the fly from the radio if you purchase the separate cable.

I also prefer Castle's software. It just seems easier to tinker with. Tekin did have an advantage where you can change settings without a programmer using the button and watching LEDs on the ESC though.

Size wise, the footprint is pretty similar but the RX4 is a lot taller.

I do love the Auxiliary Wire.

Castle programming software is fine. They haven't updated it or the firmware in what seems like forever though.


Not yet but I will have one soon, I'll try to update you after I have some time with it.

I had a really hard time not going with a Mamba X, its also my go to ESC. In the end I decided this would be an experiment just to try the RX4.

I believe they do have this feature now with V272 (firmware) https://www.teamtekin.com/adjustabledragbrake.html

It not as customizable and I think it only works in like 10% increments so It isn't as convenient. Someone asked Ty if they'll change that and I think the response was possibly down the road.

Looking forward to hearing your comparison.

I'm in the same boat. The Mamba X is so good, but I kinda want to try the RX4 just to see if I'm missing anything. Tekin makes the best stuff.

The adjustable drag brake is nothing like Castle's Auxiliary Wire though. But I tried having an adjustable drag brake with the Mamba X and I could only get it to work in two different positions. That was only using the crawler/rock racer modes.

One of his comments said Tekin would have an Auxiliary Wire if the software guys could figure out out. I don't know if the RX4 wire could have different functions with a firmware update alone.
 
I'd have to search through Ty's or my old posts to find it, but he explained it...there is an aux cable that you can buy and plug in to your RX and the ESC. You can assign a switch to that and make incremental adjustments to the drag brake to basically tune it, but could not do something like the Castle where it is 100% to 0% in one click. FOR ME that is not desirable. I want the darn thing to lock up and hold the truck in place or I want it off (or almost off anyway) so it doesnt flip the truck over or screw up the drivetrain when I let off the throttle.
 
I'd have to search through Ty's or my old posts to find it, but he explained it...there is an aux cable that you can buy and plug in to your RX and the ESC. You can assign a switch to that and make incremental adjustments to the drag brake to basically tune it, but could not do something like the Castle where it is 100% to 0% in one click. FOR ME that is not desirable. I want the darn thing to lock up and hold the truck in place or I want it off (or almost off anyway) so it doesnt flip the truck over or screw up the drivetrain when I let off the throttle.


With firmware 2.06 we now also have an adjustable drag brake ramp to help prevent any issues with the truck flipping or breaking the drive line in case you forget to change your aux wire while driving.
 
With firmware 2.06 we now also have an adjustable drag brake ramp to help prevent any issues with the truck flipping or breaking the drive line in case you forget to change your aux wire while driving.

I love that feature BTW!
 
With firmware 2.06 we now also have an adjustable drag brake ramp to help prevent any issues with the truck flipping or breaking the drive line in case you forget to change your aux wire while driving.

I have the aux on a button on my mt4 and one day I hit the button and there was no change. I looked at the radio and found the thumb lever I use for dig & burn on my MOA was set on the top of the scale. Went back to the bottom and the drag brake went away. I found that the thumb lever and button for the aux were assigned to channel 3. So now I have my choice of fully linear brake or switched. Pretty nifty feature on a go fast.



I have an rx4 too and typical tekin the brake goes to zero whenever any throttle input is applied. Stupidity to not follow the rest of the esc manufacturers. Hell even a cheap hobbywing doesn't do it. :lol:
 
I have the aux on a button on my mt4 and one day I hit the button and there was no change. I looked at the radio and found the thumb lever I use for dig & burn on my MOA was set on the top of the scale. Went back to the bottom and the drag brake went away. I found that the thumb lever and button for the aux were assigned to channel 3. So now I have my choice of fully linear brake or switched. Pretty nifty feature on a go fast.



I have an rx4 too and typical tekin the brake goes to zero whenever any throttle input is applied. Stupidity to not follow the rest of the esc manufacturers. Hell even a cheap hobbywing doesn't do it. :lol:

The Crawler/Rock Racer mode?

The RX4 will allow your crawler to coast backwards when you start applying throttle?
 
I have an rx4 too and typical tekin the brake goes to zero whenever any throttle input is applied. :lol:




I assume you mean drag brake? The RX4 has an "active drag brake" option that does the same as active freewheeling making it so the truck wont just coast when throttle is applied (going downhill).
You may not have the most current firmware or maybe you have this option turned off.


Tekin Active Drag: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvGCOfVIXVM&feature=youtu.be
 
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My biggest complaint on the tekin, when i have active drag on, and dragbrake above 50% or so, it loses the super slow initial start up. Turn active drag off, or have drag brake below 50%, and its fine, but this is a very annoying occurrence. Makes it less crawler friendly, seems they need some fine tuning. I would never recommend tekin for a crawler esc, nor will i use another.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
The Crawler/Rock Racer mode?

The RX4 will allow your crawler to coast backwards when you start applying throttle?

Yes and yes. Pretty annoying deal but I moved the rx4 to my bouncer now so it's a non issue.


I assume you mean drag brake? The RX4 has an "active drag brake" option that does the same as active freewheeling making it so the truck wont just coast when throttle is applied (going downhill).
You may not have the most current firmware or maybe you have this option turned off.


Tekin Active Drag: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvGCOfVIXVM&feature=youtu.be


Could be, I haven't taken the time to check if it's up to date in the last few months though.
 
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