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Mass-holes Rock Rey Build Thread

We’re headed out for skiing today too, Winter Park for us. It’s been a great season so far. I’m hoping it holds out for another month or so ...

Adding the steel plate is a great idea and I’m also surprised no one has made aluminum shock towers. The Hit Racing brace is nice. I added it to mine. I believe it stiffened up the structure, although I was more worried about durability and so probably wasn’t paying enough attention, Lol. The SSD front bulkhead is fantastic and I recommend it - well made, larger bearings, fits great, and most of the front end ties into the bulkhead so it’s great to have aluminum in that spot.

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Alright. Remind me not to buy from McMaster anymore. How can they charge $8.38 in shipping for a $2.51 bag of M3x40mm screws when Amazon can send me a 40 lb bag of dog food for free in two days? Does it even cost $8 to ship something like that? I mean they probably have a contract with UPS or whatever since they ship so much stuff.
 
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I got the 40mm M3 screws today and am hoping the 19mm aluminum spacers and shocks will be here tomorrow.

In preparation i built these two steel braces that will sit between the shock tower and spacer to help stiffen thing laterally since its no longer bolted to the upper plate:

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Its alive:

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You can see i drilled out a little of the front spacers to 7/16”so it would fit snuggly over the locating nubs on the front bumper support.

I have to do the brakes on my 1:1 so i havent put time into spring tuning or anything yet.
 
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Those containers are 4.5” tall and all 4 tires are touching

I am showing an additional ~28mm of wheel travel over the slash powerstroke.
 
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Beautiful! Have you tried it on the rocks yet?


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Beautiful! Have you tried it on the rocks yet?


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I havent even put a battery in it. Had to do a full brake job on my jeep cause of a seized caliper, then had guests in town, and now i am flying to Boston for a week.
 
Bought some Incision upper rear links in an effort to length them to rotate the top of the axle back a little. The powerstroke XT’s are long enough that they were causing the rear CVD to bind/rub a little at the cups.

I built the Incision links with an M4 SS nut threaded on one end to give it a little extra length:

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This is a stock link and Incision link+nut. Its hard to tell but the Incision link is a few mm longer with the nut.

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The links installed:

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I am 99% sure the rod ends are Traxxas Revo ends. Everything fit up nicely and the links are very stout being that they are solid SS. At full droop the driveshaft no longer rubs. Success.

Now if the rain would stop i will get the truck out and dial everything in with the new shocks.
 
60* and sunny out today so i took it for a quick run at a trail a couple miles from my house. There is a big natural rock slide that I wanted to try crawling through since last fall.

Where’s Rock Rey?:

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New shocks giving me all they had:

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One of the big benefits i found with these new shocks is that they keep the tires on the ground better when you high center on a rock since they droop farther. It can help pull through some situations.
 
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Just blew the rear diff on 3S. Truck started driving around in FWD, lol.

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Sheared the screws off the spur gear. Looks like it is time for an exotek.
 
I locked the center diff in my Rock Rey and after a few packs, sheared all of the screws off the diff cup/ring gear. The Exotek diff cups are nicely made and I haven't had a problem since installing them. The third member is a good move too.
 
I locked the center diff in my Rock Rey and after a few packs, sheared all of the screws off the diff cup/ring gear. The Exotek diff cups are nicely made and I haven't had a problem since installing them. The third member is a good move too.



You blew the center diff? I only got cups for the front and rear since i was gunna install the SSD gearbox and have it open anyways.
 
I should clarify since based on what I wrote it looks like I was saying I blew the center diff, which I didn't. I blew the rear diff after I locked the center, way more strain on the rear with the center locked but after adding the third member and the Exotek diff cup, I have had zero issues.

I run my front diff open, my center diff is using the stock plastic housing and has held up no issues.
 
I was down in Houston since last Sunday so i haven’t been able to look at the diff. Finally got around to it today.

I bought a set of Milwaukee cobalt drill bits and used a 3/32” bit to drill out the holes. It took a little pressure and I used PB Blaster as a lubricant. I had ordered some Tap Magic cutting fluid but i guess it was damaged in shipping and got sent back, which i didnt realize so i didnt reorder.

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You can buy the bits individually but i needed a new set anyways.

The bit went through fine with a bit of pressure. 3/32” is just a hair small but I wanted the screws to be as tight as possible, so i went back and touched up the holes with this bit on my dremel. It was just a light press on each side of each hole. Basically, just deburring it:

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After that the screws went through with almost zero slop.

I used one of my business cards to replace the original gasket in the gear that got shredded when the screws sheared off. What i did here was press the tooth side of the gear into the card which left a ring if tooth imprints. I then just cut it out with scissors. The inside was cut using a box cutter. Wasnt worried about the inside OD since this diff was locked but would put in some more effort had it been an open diff with spider gears.

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Heres the final diff assembly:

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The Exotek diff case looks fantastic. How do you like them?


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The Exotek diff case looks fantastic. How do you like them?


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It looks good for sure. No complaints at this point, just hoping its bomb proof now. With the 9T pinion and puller pro 2700kV on 3S the thing is doing rolling wheelies.
 
Ok, so what do people think? I already bought a locker for the front diff way back when I locked the center diff. I also already bought 500,000 wt diff lube. I am going to be rebuild the front diff to do the SSD housing and exotek carrier, so should go all in and lock it or use the diff lube and go for an LSD?
 
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