Mass-holes Rock Rey Build Thread

[Thloftus]

It looks good for sure. No complaints at this point, just hoping its bomb proof now. With the 9T pinion and puller pro 2700kV on 3S the thing is doing rolling wheelies.

I can’t decide if it’s an upgrade I should do or not. I’m not planning to lock the diffs and already did the Traxxas screw mod, so maybe i’m ok? It’s tempting, though, to keep on with the upgrades, lol!


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[mass-hole]

I can’t decide if it’s an upgrade I should do or not. I’m not planning to lock the diffs and already did the Traxxas screw mod, so maybe i’m ok? It’s tempting, though, to keep on with the upgrades, lol!


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The thing seems stout so far. My rey literally will do standing backflips on pavement and its holding together. I did lose one of the screws and the little bushing that connects the steering pivot arm to the steering rack. Not sure how to get a replacement for that [emoji2359]

 

[Thloftus]

The thing seems stout so far. My rey literally will do standing backflips on pavement and its holding together. I did lose one of the screws and the little bushing that connects the steering pivot arm to the steering rack. Not sure how to get a replacement for that [emoji2359]

It’s the same for me. I put a 3600 kV in mine and dang, it does exactly what I want! No question I’ll be remaking the roof panel, Lol!


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[Rkilkowski]

reading tru ur thread , love the body (panels) you made , the wear on the panels make it look good , good work with the front shocks

 

[iridebikes247]

I wouldn't lock the front diff if you plan on running it at a decent speed. Do you want more of a low speed crawler or something to run on 3s 25+mph?

I have had my truck for about 6 months now and for a brief period of time I had all of the diffs locked. Turn radius is damn good on this truck and I was still happy with it locked. After owning this truck for some time I have found the front driveshafts to be the "Achilles heel," of what I think is a relatively bomb-proof setup now. My drivetrain has;

Exotek diff cups F/R
SSD 3rd member
SSD front bulkhead

I listed my parts because at this point the only thing that I know I'll break is the front driveshafts if I lock the front diff again. I went through a few of the plastic sliders, then ran the GPM driveshafts I got on Ebay. I think they are even weaker than the stock shafts because the pins are so thin.

I run stock power with a 10t pinion on 2s and 3s. I like driving the truck more with the front diff unlocked, handles better and is more manageable. I run the truck at higher speeds and don't really crawl with it so for me this is the ideal setup. If you plan on mainly doing crawling and 2s is enough, then a rig with 3 locked diffs would be ideal. Also make sure to remove the rear swaybar for crawling, you will be amazed by how much articulation you gain.

 

[mass-hole]

I wouldn't lock the front diff if you plan on running it at a decent speed. Do you want more of a low speed crawler or something to run on 3s 25+mph?

I have had my truck for about 6 months now and for a brief period of time I had all of the diffs locked. Turn radius is damn good on this truck and I was still happy with it locked. After owning this truck for some time I have found the front driveshafts to be the "Achilles heel," of what I think is a relatively bomb-proof setup now. My drivetrain has;

Exotek diff cups F/R
SSD 3rd member
SSD front bulkhead

I listed my parts because at this point the only thing that I know I'll break is the front driveshafts if I lock the front diff again. I went through a few of the plastic sliders, then ran the GPM driveshafts I got on Ebay. I think they are even weaker than the stock shafts because the pins are so thin.

I run stock power with a 10t pinion on 2s and 3s. I like driving the truck more with the front diff unlocked, handles better and is more manageable. I run the truck at higher speeds and don't really crawl with it so for me this is the ideal setup. If you plan on mainly doing crawling and 2s is enough, then a rig with 3 locked diffs would be ideal. Also make sure to remove the rear swaybar for crawling, you will be amazed by how much articulation you gain.

i had it set up with the intention of crawling it for the most part, but like that i can go fast if i want.

And yeah i typically run it without the swaybar. I kinda wish that someone had made a lighter swaybar so that it would let the rear flex more but still keep it stable at speed.

 

[OpisOpus]

Interesting. I had never thought about removing the sway bar. I’ve moved more into hill climbs and rock bouncing so I don’t bash high speed quite as much and was thinking about locking the front diff to have all 3 locked. I wonder how no sway bar and a locked front would have an effect on what I drive on. I’ve been having an issue with torque steer though and wonder if removing the sway bar would make it worse. Some of my torque steer seems to be from the front diff being open though bc one wheel spins faster than the other. I currently have a mixture of about 95% 1mil and 5% 10,000 weight in front (all I had to work with). Worked good initially, but seems the mixture has thinned out and broken down with a lot of use.


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[mass-hole]

Interesting. I had never thought about removing the sway bar. I’ve moved more into hill climbs and rock bouncing so I don’t bash high speed quite as much and was thinking about locking the front diff to have all 3 locked. I wonder how no sway bar and a locked front would have an effect on what I drive on. I’ve been having an issue with torque steer though and wonder if removing the sway bar would make it worse. Some of my torque steer seems to be from the front diff being open though bc one wheel spins faster than the other. I currently have a mixture of about 95% 1mil and 5% 10,000 weight in front (all I had to work with). Worked good initially, but seems the mixture has thinned out and broken down with a lot of use.


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The sway bar helps stability for sure, and i could imagine in certain scenarios it would help. It also helps force the front suspension to do more work but at the cost of limiting the rear. My truck will lift opposing tires off the ground before it lets the rear shock fully compress with the sway bar engaged. With it disengaged the rear suspension will twist 45* in either direction.

Sway bar connected:

Sway bar disconnected:

 

[mass-hole]

The thing seems stout so far. My rey literally will do standing backflips on pavement and its holding together. I did lose one of the screws and the little bushing that connects the steering pivot arm to the steering rack. Not sure how to get a replacement for that [emoji2359]

Just an update:

For those of you with a Hot Racing steering rack, check these bolts to make sure they have locktite:

Mine came assembled without locktite and lost one along with the bushing it holds in on like my second run. I am an idiot and didnt check to see if the stock steering rack uses the same bushing, which it does, so luckily I was able to borrow one.

Good thing, because Hot Racings customer service is basically non-existent. They haven’t returned my emails for over a month now(from another part as well)

 

[mass-hole]

Finally got my ssd housing and exotek diff cup on the front. Gunna try it with 500,000 wt oil first and see how it is. If it doesnt do what i want i am gunna go full locked.

3 of the 4 diff screws were already sheared off:

 

[mass-hole]

I really haven’t been driving my rey much since i bought my TRX4. I finally got around to taking it out on some rock since I had done the SSD diff housing and decided I did not like the 500,000 wt oil.

It clearly helps, but in gnarly crawling situations it definitely defaults to 1 wheel spinning.

Decided to lock it up this afternoon. Took the diff out and put the vaterra spool in there and the difference is immediately noticable even on the tiny rocks in my front yard. Now it goes where and over what you tell it in a straight line, not peg legging like before. I also really didnt see a huge difference at higher speeds.

I also played with the springs. With this huge amount of travel it tends to get a ton of body roll in corners, even with the sway bar. I stiffened the front to the pro-spec red springs. After crawling like this i noticed the the rear axle was doing most of the work and only in really crossed up situations did the front put in the effort. So now i am running the yellow powerstroke primary spring an purple(stiffest) pro-spec spring in the rear. This will hopefully help the front work a little harder.

 

[mass-hole]

I dont thing this truck is meant to run 3s. Seriously. Every time i drive it something breaks within 5 min.

This time the inner bearing on the rear diff cover came apart so the pinion would shift and lose contact with the spur.

 

[iridebikes247]

Agreed, I don't think this truck is well suited for 3s power. I went with an upgraded third member from the get go so didn't have the failure you experienced. I posted awhile back about my experience with the truck but nonetheless this is the order things failed in:

Sheared all 4 rear diff screws (replaced with Exotek housings all around)
Several plastic driveshaft sliders
Pins popped out of several CV joints
Front diff pinion bearing failure

Have put a decent amount of money into this truck, really it's the time I can't get back. If you want to run 3s I suggest putting some cash into the driveline or it'll keep happening. Backing down to 2s is an option and your driveline will thank you but this truck is too much fun not to run 3s sometimes. Have a lot of time into the setup at this point the front axles are the weakness in my build followed by the drive pins in the wheel hexes they're smaller than most and have snapped a few in high grip high speed runs.

If you find yourself snapping driveshafts you can sleeve with one of these they fit inside the axle with very little sanding. You won't be able to access the 3mm screw securing to the u-joint anymore but, when/if it snaps access will be restored lol. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Glossy-5mm...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[mass-hole]

Im running the exotek diff cups front and rear and have the SSD diff housing in the front. Just ordered the SSD 3rd member last night.

 

[mass-hole]

Got my ssd 3rd member and rebuilt the axle with fast eddy bearings.


This one is a bit out of left field. Its something the bomber guys do which is to install shorter rear trailing arms which helps shorten the wheelbase, reduces breakover angle and tightens the turning radius.

I went with Vaterra twin hammers stock arms and links cause they were cheap. These are pretty short. The bomber guys usually swap to wraith length arms but some even go to the twin hammer arms because they are even shorter:

Stock:

Twin Hammers:

Side x side:

Here is the wheelbase with the lower arms in place:

The upper Vaterra links are too short so the pinion is point downward. They probably need to be 5-10mm longer.

 

[mass-hole]

Its pretty much put together with the Twin Hammers trailing arms:

Wheelbase is now ~350mm vs losi’s spec of 381.

Made my own upper links with Revo rod ends and M4 threaded rod:

Its still very flexy:

The last thing I need to polish this off is a new driveshaft. I didn’t want to cut up my hot racing aluminum shaft so I ordered a new hot racing shaft for the Axial Wraith:

https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=CVD95T15;c=623

The 40mm center should slip right onto the existing cvd ends i already have.

 

[mass-hole]

I was in paris all week and final got home and was able to install the 40mm shaft. Fits great:

 

[mass-hole]

Got it out on the rocks at a new spot and this is probably the best mod i have done to the truck thus far. It gets over things i couldn’t before due to the shorter wheelbase and extra breakover angle:

 

[mass-hole]

I found an 8 tooth pinion made by HPI that i am going to try, gear it down a little farther.

 

[mass-hole]

Oh boy