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MaX-D's Wroncho Build

It’s coming along nicely. While not ideal, I don’t expect out-mounting the shock should necessarily be an issue. I (and many others)have done it on an Ascender without fail. I gather your Wroncho is gonna is push some decent speeds so that mount may see a little more stress. Personally I wouldn’t worry about it.

Enjoying the thread!
 
It’s coming along nicely. While not ideal, I don’t expect out-mounting the shock should necessarily be an issue. I (and many others)have done it on an Ascender without fail. I gather your Wroncho is gonna is push some decent speeds so that mount may see a little more stress. Personally I wouldn’t worry about it.



Enjoying the thread!
Thanks smog. I'm building this to primarily be a crawler, but if it does need to see a little speed, I want to have those bases covered. The last thing I wanted to do was out Mount the shocks, but had no choice. Oh well, if something breaks I'll just fix it.

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Does anyone have any idea on what is the best way to put some weight on the front end of this thing.? I'm putting the battery tray right behind the front shock Towers like the Element Enduros, but I know from when the truck was a Wraith it needed more weight up front.

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Does anyone have any idea on what is the best way to put some weight on the front end of this thing.? I'm putting the battery tray right behind the front shock Towers like the Element Enduros, but I know from when the truck was a Wraith it needed more weight up front.

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I use wheel weights. I run ssd wheels with vanquish hubs and brass weights. My battery is also mounted just behind the front shock towers.

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Getting closer. Will be putting the tranny back together tonight, and replacing all the bearings.
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Does anyone have any idea on what is the best way to put some weight on the front end of this thing.? I'm putting the battery tray right behind the front shock Towers like the Element Enduros, but I know from when the truck was a Wraith it needed more weight up front.

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Brass steering knuckles and/or c-hubs are a really nice way to add unsprung/non rotating weight down low and in the front corners. Not sure who makes them for the AR60 axles( I think you are using these) Would have to look into that.
 
Brass steering knuckles and/or c-hubs are a really nice way to add unsprung/non rotating weight down low and in the front corners. Not sure who makes them for the AR60 axles( I think you are using these) Would have to look into that.
Yes, I am using AR60 axles. I would prefer brass knuckles or c-hubs. I don't know who makes them either. My next research project I reckon.

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XtraSpeed makes "steel" (they're really just potmetal) AR60 axle housings that weigh 5oz, XtraSpeed, Beeftubes, Boom Racing, etc also make stainless steel axle tubes (can fit inside of the "steel" housings) that add 2oz. Locked UP rc makes a heavyweight spool that weighs 2oz. Beeftubes has a brass diff cover that weighs 2oz. Dlux can build you knuckles that weigh 10+oz. There are also no-name Chinese brass knuckles that weigh about 9oz. My front AR60 on my Wraith weighs in the neighborhood of 2lbs. How heavy do you want to be? The parts are definitely out there.

Here's some links: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Inter...435251?hash=item342edb7b33:g:wIEAAOSwfVhaMXWH

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Xtra-Steel...892600&hash=item33fd002368:g:sjYAAOSwBxpfiXcu

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axial-Wrai...282672?hash=item365f6e1070:g:4ZcAAOSwNJxeb5nt

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/bt004dcb.htm

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/loc0821-hw.htm

https://dluxfab.com/Knuckles-Dlux-p83364230
 
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XtraSpeed makes "steel" (they're really just potmetal) AR60 axle housings that weigh 5oz, XtraSpeed, Beeftubes, Boom Racing, etc also make stainless steel axle tubes (can fit inside of the "steel" housings) that add 2oz. Locked UP rc makes a heavyweight spool that weighs 2oz. Beeftubes has a brass diff cover that weighs 2oz. Dlux can build you knuckles that weigh 10+oz. There are also no-name Chinese brass knuckles that weigh about 9oz. My front AR60 on my Wraith weighs in the neighborhood of 2lbs. How heavy do you want to be? The parts are definitely out there.

Here's some links: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Inter...435251?hash=item342edb7b33:g:wIEAAOSwfVhaMXWH

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Xtra-Steel...892600&hash=item33fd002368:g:sjYAAOSwBxpfiXcu

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axial-Wrai...282672?hash=item365f6e1070:g:4ZcAAOSwNJxeb5nt

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/bt004dcb.htm

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/loc0821-hw.htm

https://dluxfab.com/Knuckles-Dlux-p83364230
WOW! Thanks for doing the research for me. This definitely gives me a lot to go on. I have no idea how heavy I want the front end to be.

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XtraSpeed makes "steel" (they're really just potmetal) AR60 axle housings that weigh 5oz, XtraSpeed, Beeftubes, Boom Racing, etc also make stainless steel axle tubes (can fit inside of the "steel" housings) that add 2oz. Locked UP rc makes a heavyweight spool that weighs 2oz. Beeftubes has a brass diff cover that weighs 2oz. Dlux can build you knuckles that weigh 10+oz. There are also no-name Chinese brass knuckles that weigh about 9oz. My front AR60 on my Wraith weighs in the neighborhood of 2lbs. How heavy do you want to be? The parts are definitely out there.

Here's some links: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Inter...435251?hash=item342edb7b33:g:wIEAAOSwfVhaMXWH

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Xtra-Steel...892600&hash=item33fd002368:g:sjYAAOSwBxpfiXcu

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axial-Wrai...282672?hash=item365f6e1070:g:4ZcAAOSwNJxeb5nt

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/bt004dcb.htm

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/loc0821-hw.htm

https://dluxfab.com/Knuckles-Dlux-p83364230
What is everything that you have on the front of your Wraith that adds 2 lb of weight?

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I have a steel housing, stainless steel inner axle tubes, VP clamping c-hubs, VP knuckles, VP brass knuckle weights, 2 per side: Dlux add-on brass rings (these aren't meant to fit the VP weights, but I made them work), LURC heavyweight FI spool, Axial hardened steel ring & pinion, Dlux U4 axle truss/servo mount, Savox 2290sg servo (mounted behind the front axle), stainless steel tie rod, Axial universal joint axles, 10mm wide clamping wheel hexes, some random aluminum diff cover, diff packed FULL of grease, and probably some other junk I'm forgetting. It all adds up!

That's not necessarily 2lbs MORE than a stock axle assembly, but 2lbs(ish... it might have actually been a little heavier) total axle weight. That's easily more than a full pound over stock, and my wallet is much lighter too! With that amount of weight down low, out front, it never leaves me wanting more even on an 8lb car. Besides, it's cheaper/easier to lose weight from the rear and/or from up high now than it would be to try to figure out how to add weight out front/down low. All else equal, a lighter car generally performs better.
 
Ever since I put the metal tranny gears in it feels knotchy, not smooth. I tried just about everything to fix it and came up empty. I put the plastic gears back in, smooth as butter. The plastic gears have lasted this long (6 years) with zero wear, they're staying for now.

I've also decided that I'm going to keep the Robinson Racing metal spur. The slipper pad hardly looks worn and it's thick as hell. I'm hoping to have it running by the end of the weekend.

Then I'll need to figure out a paint scheme for the Honcho body and how much, or little of the rear cage I actually want to use. I'll either use part of the Honcho cage, or hack up my leftover Wraith cage.

I'm also trying to decide if I want 4 wheel steer or not. From threads that I've read, guys with 4ws more often than not end up taking it off. I'm on the fence. Any thoughts on this?


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Unless you're in it for the novelty, I'd skip 4ws. If you want to turn sharper, dig will do a much better job of it than 4ws. OD/UD and some minor steering mods on the front axle can cut a pretty tight turn without dig or 4ws.
 
Unless you're in it for the novelty, I'd skip 4ws. If you want to turn sharper, dig will do a much better job of it than 4ws. OD/UD and some minor steering mods on the front axle can cut a pretty tight turn without dig or 4ws.



I'm going to skip 4ws. I've always thought dig was cool. OD/UD I know works well. I'm going to try UD first to see how it goes, then add OD if I feel it's necessary. At my local course, there's only a couple of spots that I need sharp turning.


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Spacers for the sway bars made and in stalled. There's only 1mm of space between the sway bar button head screw and chassis.
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Battery tray installed. No problem running 2200mah 3s batteries, but full size packs will have to be on their side. They won't fit because of the tranny.
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I've got enough space to mount the ESC and receiver in front of the battery tray on a piece of aluminum that I'll cut to size and attach to a couple of crossbraces.
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I mocked up the electronics. I don't know if this is going to work though. At full suspension compression, the top links hit the back cross brace for the electronics. I don't know how often both shocks are at full compression at the same time

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